Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey guys i got a pajero 3L V6 NF few months ago and i got roof rack water tank and good arial and all that stuff but i want to no all the good mods i can do to it im putting 32" tyres on it i think and changing the dif but i need some good info on all the possible good mods i can do to motor and anything eles

thanks Wade

Wadezz wrote:hey guys i got a pajero 3L V6 NF few months ago and i got roof rack water tank and good arial and all that stuff but i want to no all the good mods i can do to it im putting 32" tyres on it i think and changing the dif but i need some good info on all the possible good mods i can do to motor and anything eles

thanks Wade

Welcome Mate. Firstly, put on your flame-suit, because generic questions and un-researched queries will get a very rapid response...

Secondly, spend a bit of time reading thru old threads here. Start at the Tech bible,

Search for relevant modifications that you'd like to make; look for Members vehicles

of all types for all sorts of ideas, and do what I'm trying to do- go from noob asking laughable questions to someone who has a well sorted vehicle, to their own style, and experience gained along the way.

But read everything on this board that you can, except for Gen ChitChat, that'll just waste your hours. (i know i does mine....)

Cheers.

Hey mate,
well the best way to do this is:
*not go with 32's go with 33's
*change to diesel diff ratio's
*if it's coil rear get standard nissan coils and put them in
*to get the front to match cut the upper control arm bumpstops and wind the torsion bars up
*Put a bodylift in it approx 2 inch.
*Put a lokka lok rite front diff lock in with manual free wheeling hubs.
*Put a rear detroit or if u can afford it a arb air locker.
*Bigger exhaust system.
*snorkel with a K&N filter.

With all these mods you will have a car that will want to go anywhere...

Have fun....

hey dans,
thank m8 thats very helpful info only thing is im not to sure on the body lift alot of people not on here but in real life say i sould stay away from a body lift that why i was gonan put 32" or 31" tyres with no body lift and still put a desiel diff in and im not sure about the arb air locks they r like 1800 buxks each so i might just get a lock right and im def getting a snorkal, howd i go about putting a turbo in?

Thanks wade

oooo,
and with the diffs do i change both difs to the desiel ones or can i change liek the back one and put the back one i have now into the front and just get rite of the front one and wat sort of exhaught system will i need m8 id like to do those mods i just gott work out how to do them all proberly

thanks wade

ohhh... ok yer the diff locks are a tad expensive..... but hey they work...
not so sure about turbocharging the 3L but it might be easier to supercharge it instead???? your best to ask someone who has done this or someone who knows stuff about the 3L's..... what were u plannin on doing with this car??? im sure you would get enough power with a snorkel giving fresh air to the K&N filter, that goes out through a 3 inch performance exhaust??? instead of turbocharging have you also considered putting a hiclone in the air intake hose???

Body lift - horses for courses. These "real" people who tell you not to do it - do they give reasons? If you want 33s, and dont' want to butcher your guards, do the body lift. Improves your approach & departure angle without raising your CoG as far as an equivalent suspension lift - not that you can lift a Paj suspension that far... If you want a body lift, just do it. It's not hard.

Exhaust. I have a 2.5", and feel it's too big - I think it's knocked too much off the low-down torque, so it's not as good when crawling. Fortunately, I have crawler gears. Some exhaust techs have advised 2.25" for the 3 litre, and I suspect they're right.

Hiclone? Some people believe in them, I don't.

Diff locks? First one, including the air compressor, should be $1500 to $1600, plus installation. Shop around and you should get a slightly better price, do the bulk of the install yourself. Second diff lock approx $1200, plus installation.

If you're going the Nissan rear coils, get stock GQ. Heavy duty and/or GU will lift too far.

And I recommend putting a little more effort into your posts. Poor punctuation and SMS style contractions make them hard to read - I suspect some regulars simply aren't reading them, so they're not replying either.

Good luck,

Scott

okay m8,

Thank you this information helps alot i think the 1st 2 things is tyres and a body lift so i need to no all the parts i need for a body lift and how i am going to do it.

I also am going to need to no how to the diffs and diff locks they are the main things im hoping it will cut under 5 grand because i dun wanna spend to much on it because as it is i will never get my money back for it

Thanks Wade

nissan coils.. off what model. has any one done this before.. got pics?? how does it ride?

4x4 suzi wrote:nissan coils.. off what model. has any one done this before.. got pics?? how does it ride?

Whatever year GQ ones you can get, as long as they are STANDARD ones, otherwise they'll be too stiff. Cheapest suspension lift around, but remember you'll need longer shocks to match or you'll rip apart your current ones.

Another idea may also by to learn to drive you vehicle now and then add to it later when you think you need a little more capability.

Did i say that?

hey dude?

How much do the back shockys cost and how much to they rise the car up and what sort of shocks do i need in the front m8?

Thanks Wade

Mine is an 88 petrol 4-banger. Here's a list of what I've done to it so far. I wrote this up recently for someone else, so fortunately it was handy. Perhaps this may give an idea or two...

Modifications:

Front & rear ARB lockers
Gen I V6 front differential and axles
Gen I V6 swaybar (removed for flex)
2" suspension lift via Toyota extended leaf-shackles and cranked t-bars
Gen II upper control arms (corrects camber problems with cranking t-bars and gives added flex)
Gen I V6 brake upgrade (bigger brake disks)
5.29:1 differential gears
2.85:1 transfer-case gears
Safari snorkel
Graduated / armored spring hangers (I broke one once, so I had them heavily reinforced with 1/4" steel)
Don rock sliders
Don front & rear bumpers
Extended drivetrain breathers
2" body lift
33X12.5x15 Dunlop Mud Rover tires on 15X8 black D-spoke rims
Aisin manual hubs
Old Man Emu Nitrocharger shocks
Extended steel-braid brakes lines
Trimmed-down upper bump-stops
Custom hand throttle
Shock absorber driver & passenger seats (aka "bouncy" seats)
ARB air-compressor (for lockers)
A/C pump converted to on-board compressor (for tires / tools) w/pre-oiler and air hose
Electric fuel pump
Hood louvers
180-degree thermostat
CB w/PA mounted on ceiling via bracket to rear-view mirror
Extra internal tie-down points
Steel lock-box (holds parts, tool boxes, fluids)
A-pillar "cop-car" light
PIAA fog lights
LED rock lights
Jerry-can mount
Internally mounted Hi-Lift jack
Twin fire extinguishers
First-aid kit
Shovel

Future Modifications:

35x12.5x15 Goodyear MT/R tires (undecided if I'll move up to 35s or stick with 33s)
Electrical upgrade to 110+ amp system
Gas tank relocation (raised)
Raised / rerouted exhaust
Additional underside armor (tranny, gas tank, rear diff)
Swaybar disconnect
Run air lines, check-valves, etc, to sliders and rear bumper to use as air storage tank.
Relocate catalytic convertor, modify front bumper winch tray, install Power Take-Off to t-case, install PTO winch and drive shafts (I have all the parts, including custom PTO gears...I just need to get it done)

Nice! that thing would be unstopable.

Well yesterday mine got a 2" lift kit which is grate and i got way better shocks and coils and i have booked mi 4wd into tyre power for this saturday, its getting 33" coopers st tyres on king 15x7 23 negitive offset rims and some flares.

all up in 3 days thats 3 grand gone:P lmao and im onluy 16 this is my 1st car but gonna be a god one. i have a 5,29 diff (rear) but i looked into putting it in and with the v6 gen 1 what i got automatic gear box and transfer case im not going to have any problems anyways. It will move those 33" tyres no worrys at all.

Next i want to make a snorkal for mi baby, out of stainless steel and buy the head ofcorse. and i custom made a really good ladder for it plus i got uhf with a really good arial now.

Also got a ally bullbar and a ally roof rack ofcorse cause thats what my ladder hocks onto:P. spot light at the back for unloading camp and one on the side, as well as the 2 front ones.

i got a water tank built on the side that i made my self two.

Ill post pics on saturday once i get mi tyres then it will look like a 4wd:D need the tyres that will complete the looks besides the snorkal lmao!:P

Thx for all the information on you 4wd i dare say that will be way better than mine will ever be:P. oo and about the sway bars how much more flex do you get from it? and is it illiagal or not i heard that it is?

thx Wade:)

Thank you for the compliment...it's been a fun project.

I've never measured it, but the front end gets more flex since I put in the Gen II UCAs and when I remove the swaybar. This has been reported to me by Jeep guys and other solid-axle drivers who are quite surprised to see how much my truck is flexing (since it's IFS).

I can't speak to the legality in your area, since I am in the US.

Sorry for hijack, CapnCrunch was wondering what brackets you made up for raising front and rear bar after bodylift. Ive been lazy after my bodylift and havn't done much about it myself yet. Looks like you might have a custom rear bar from photos, but the front should be similar to my 89 diesel. Photo's?

Interesting about the GenII uca's, ill look into finding some from wreckers. Is it a simple swap?

Cheers mate.

Assuming you're referring to the front and rear bumpers, they are custom-made bumpers. Don Huysmans, in Vancouver, B.C., Canada makes them as sort of a side thing. He drives an '87.

http://www3.telus.net/public/dhuysman/pajero-page.html

He makes them with no mounting holes drilled, allowing the installer to drill them according to where they want them mounted, body-lift or not.

The swap to Gen II UCAs is a surprisingly simple swap. They just bolt right in. And as simple a swap as it is, they really provide a lot of benefit. If you're going to use new mount-bolts for it (recommended), get new mount-bolts for a Gen II. The very fine threads of the OEM bolts are very strong, compared with the coarser threads of off-the-shelf bolts. Also, you'll want to find the newest Gen II UCAs you can. The Gen II UCAs don't have grease fittings (at least not in the USA) and their bushings can wear faster than Gen I UCAs.

An alignment afterward is, of course, highly recommended.

EDIT: I forgot to mention...you will only want to do the Gen II UCA mod at the same time as doing a 2-inch suspension lift in the rear. Because of the added length of the Gen II UCAs, if you don't crank the t-bars, the camber would be way off and your front tires would be leaning very noticeably outward. Cranking the t-bars straightens them out and also lifts the front end. If you already have a 2-inch suspension lift done, then you'll be fine. You will notice that the new UCAs will really help your camber, relaxes the angles on the CVs, and allows for more travel.

Thanks for the link, though I will most likely create a bracket to lift both bumpers. Will have to cut the bottom of the number plate void in the rear bumper to allow it to fit. (Still investigating, may go for homemade custom bar)

Ive had the front sway bars off for a while now. But I still have to raise the suspension so Ill go for the uca mod as well. I can get my hands on some Paj LWB coils for the rear (mines a SWB). Do you think i will still need some shims to reduce the camber of the tyres or will the new uca's be enough?

A wheel alignment will definately be on the cards after these mods.

Cheers

I would suggest at least grabbing the shims which are on the Gen II Paj that you get the UCAs from. And your Paj probably already has a shim set in it. Between the two sets, you should be able to set the camber just right. Without any shims, mine were angled-out slightly...one set dialed it in correctly (after cranking the t-bars, of course).

-Scott- wrote:
Exhaust. I have a 2.5", and feel it's too big - I think it's knocked too much off the low-down torque, so it's not as good when crawling. Fortunately, I have crawler gears. Some exhaust techs have advised 2.25" for the 3 litre, and I suspect they're right.

Yeah, any bigger than 2.25 will not create enough back pressure and you will burn a valve. I've done it. Not cheap to fix either.