Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am putting a VS Commodore V6 into my 1991 4Runner.
I just about have everything I require for the transplant but want some input/suggestions from anyone experienced in these matters.

First I will list what I think I will need and what I have.

Engine........VS Ecotec V6...in a wreck so I have everthing I need regarding the motor.
Engine with Air-con, Power steering, Alternator, Loom, ECU etc. This has the
Alloy sump which I may or may not have to switch with an metal VN sump.

Gearbox.....4L60-E automatic transmission with shifter and all bits and pieces.....(I'll get to this later)

EFI Fuel tank from a V6 4Runner with fuel pump and swirl tank.

3 core deisel Radiator from unknown Toyota Commercial (wrecker)

Commodore Thermo Fan and shroud...(which I should be able to shoehorn in? hopefully)

Other bits I will need but will source from Marks or the like.
Transfere adapter (if I go Auto)
Gearbox adapter (if I go Manual)
Memcal with the Body Control bits de-activated
Tacho Conversion

Undoubtedly I have forgotten a few bits and pieces.

What I would like to know is:

Would you go auto or manual for a daily workhorse which tows a tool trailer (1500kg) all week?...I have been towing with an auto commodore and it is pretty smooth and fairly light on the juice....but I am open to opinions here.
If Manual, would the stock G52 and clutch handle the increased power?

The ratio's of the Holden auto are very similar to the ratio's of the 4Runner V6 auto....but are the diffs ratio's between the 4Runner Auto and Manual the same?

Does anyone have a copy of the "simple instructions" supplied with Marks adapters so I can see just how easy?

I would wlecome any info from anyone who has done an Ecetec V6 Auto or manual conversion to their 4Runner.

Mate,

If you are planning on putting crossover steering in you will need a modified sump and modified marks chassis bracket or you could make your own to suit. ( That is if you want to run air con.)

From what i have been told and i have seen the G52 are not the strongest box. Yeah sure you can baby them around and drive like a grandma but eventually they will break. At least the auto was designed for the v6 power. That is my thoughts anyway. Especially if you are towing a load and it is a work truck.

If you do not want the marks adaptors BCM for $400 which has central locking on it, you can purchase one a little cheaper through V6 conversions at Moree. $300.

I am doing the conversion at the moment to a 85 LFS 4 runner and it is testing me. But i can see the light at the end of tunnel.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks for the reply.
I am not sure what you mean by "Crossup steering", I have IFS and it seems the only thing I will have to move is the steering damper....at this stage.
Good luck with yours. keep us up to date.

If you must use a whautomatic use the VN/P T700 not a 4L60E
also use the VP engine harness and computor
I use this all the time including on supercharged L67 conversions
There are a lot of woodies that regulaly tell me it wont work but wont pay up when they have lost a bet
If you use the the ecotec computor and have the BCM burnt out , you cant recover any engine codes or faults
forget the thermo fan fit a engine driven fan
I have gone with manual and dual transfres 15 forward and 3 reverse gears
I custom built a R15# and fitted 30% overdrive from a Dyna truck
I regularly tow a loaded 3.5 tonne trailer long haul 1000 km plus at a time

What toyrex said.

The VS auto ecu is huge and the VP ECU will fit easy into the passenger kick panel, like the Commodore. Moving the dampner will allow you to run the standard VR sump. Not sure about the VS one.

The Com fan and shroud, PITA to modify.

The wire loom adapter is not needed if you can install a set of spotties and relay setup nicely. Here is an example of wiring for the VR (loom plugs) to Hilux;




Just a thought;
If you are going to keep the 4L60E and VS ECU, you have all the bits, so why not hide the BCM in up under your dash with the key head permanently connected to it? Anyone know if this will work OK?

The diff ratios are different, but the wheel size sort of makes up for it. Not sure of exact equations.

I did the VR conversion with manual, but it's straight LPG, so no BCM signal was required for the engine to rum (operates injectors), VS might be different.

The petrol consumption will blow you away, so be prepared - might be a good idea to factor in LPG.

Power steer conversion is simple.

A/C, custom lines need to be made, as the Toy - Holden ends are different.

Only if you have ADD now and you go for the T700, the transfer will need to be changed to a gear driven type and the VSV's for the front diff will need manual switch work, or install free wheeling hubs and have the diff ADD constantly engaged. Also the output shaft of the T700 will need to be modified.

"Only if you have ADD now and you go for the T700, the transfer will need to be changed to a gear driven type and the VSV's for the front diff will need manual switch work, or install free wheeling hubs and have the diff ADD constantly engaged. Also the output shaft of the T700 will need to be modified."


I assume ADD is the "cuff" which engages the drivers side drive shaft on the front diff?
Can't this be run as normally? I think it is electrically switched and vacuum actuated.

I already have the VS Ecotec and the 4L60E so I am definitely using these.

Why do I need to change to a gear driven Transfere? Is this onlt T700 related?

How bad are we talking re: fuel consumption?
Would this be gear ratio related?
Would re-jigging the Torque converter lockup speed have a benefit?

Also I forget to mention.
I have the entire car and have isolated the loom from the ECU to the engine. This has no direct connection to the the main loom.
I have the BCM and all the associated bits but I cannot see how it comes into play as it is not connected to the ECU part of the loom.

How does the ECU check for BCM and the key etc. without a hard wired connection?

I just discovered that the 4L60E has a factory tranfere case option fitted in the US to Chev 4WD's.

hobpedlar wrote:I assume ADD is the "cuff" which engages the drivers side drive shaft on the front diff?
Can't this be run as normally? I think it is electrically switched and vacuum actuated.

What you say is correct. The ADD is a complex system with sensors and switches. If you run FW Hubs, you will be able to run permanent vacuum to the actuator on the diff.

hobpedlar wrote:Why do I need to change to a gear driven Transfere? Is this onlt T700 related?

The gear type is reported to be stronger, has crawler gear options and I'm not sure the people that make adapters do them for the chain transfer, you should investigate.

hobpedlar wrote:How bad are we talking re: fuel consumption?
Would this be gear ratio related?
Would re-jigging the Torque converter lockup speed have a benefit?

REAL bad! Not sure about the rest of the answers, but LPG is my answer!

hobpedlar wrote:I have the entire car and have isolated the loom from the ECU to the engine. This has no direct connection to the the main loom.
I have the BCM and all the associated bits but I cannot see how it comes into play as it is not connected to the ECU part of the loom.

How does the ECU check for BCM and the key etc. without a hard wired connection?

For the VR, under the dash, the dash harness has a plug (above,YB62) that interfaces with the engine loom/ECU.

From what I can see from the ADD workshop diagrams and info sheet the ADD is a totally self contained system which does not rely on any input from the gearbox or engine. Input comes from the transfere which will remain in the vehicle or the button on the low range selector stick.
All I need is to supply vacuum to the two actuator solenoids and I can just leave the whole thing alone and it should all still function properly

An adapter is available for the chain drive transfere.

hobpedlar wrote:An adapter is available for the chain drive transfere.

OK, your going with the chain transfer, then the ADD is not going to be effected.

Just thought I would put you onto something with electrical's.

You can go with the chain drive if you want.

Thanks for bringing these things up.
If someone else doesn't raise them I won't know what things to sort out.
I do appreciate your input.
Simply answering the questions you have raised has helped me nail down several potential problems already.

Sorry about the hi-jack.But thought you guys might be able to help.(no-one else seems to know).

Im running a vp motor/ecu/relays/fusable links everything straight out of the commodore.

I done everything myself. Im running a MARKS speed senors on the 5spd DAIHATSU box. Ive got the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT and it doesnt show any faults.

MY question is does the ECU need a constent 12v supply to the other pink wire on the plug above the DIAG plug or does it get 12v thru the engine loom.

Im only running 12V ign to the ECU and dont know if it resets the ECU evry time i turn it off.

Cheers craig

dai-hard wrote:MY question is does the ECU need a constent 12v supply to the other pink wire on the plug above the DIAG plug or does it get 12v thru the engine loom.

Im only running 12V ign to the ECU and dont know if it resets the ECU evry time i turn it off. :?:

Cheers craig

I think you need it, but not sure, don't have time to look now. Send me a PM