Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I keep bashing my rear bumper on rocks and stuff and was wondering if its legal to place my tail lights and number plate into the tailgate and remove the rear bumper, cut the quater panels and run a single 2" tube aroung the rear with an in corporated hayman reese hitch.
If anyone has any pics or info on what they've done or experienced it would be appreciated.
Mitch

Mine is in the tailgate no problems with the law as long as you put a no, plate light . Boner

I wanted to do this but I also wanted to convert my tailgate in to a "drop down" style instead of swing, but I dont think I'll be able to drive around with it down if I the plate was mounted to it as it wouldnt be visible...

Dee wrote:I wanted to do this but I also wanted to convert my tailgate in to a "drop down" style instead of swing, but I dont think I'll be able to drive around with it down if I the plate was mounted to it as it wouldnt be visible...

Why not put a hinge on the top of the number plate? Then when the tailgate has dropped down the number plate will swing down and still be visible.

Cheers,
Sean

I don't know about other states but in Queensland no tail/brake lights are allowed in swinging panels. (I assume because lights would not be visible to oncoming traffic if tailgate is open.)

Number plates and light/s are OK if made that way such as Holden Maloo utes.

Yes, had the same problem on mine and quite right, no brake/tail lights or indicators on hinged panels in QLD. So I chucked the tailgate off mine and made up a new tailgate myself and welded it in place so now its a fixed panel. Put some LED lights on and number plate on and got a single tube rear bar made. Much better clearance and no more going through a bumper and set of lights every trip. Lights and plate but be visible from 45 degree angle from both sides and brakelights must be min 600mm (i think) apart.

i looked into this a while ago..
i found out that they need to be a certain distance apart. i cant rememebr exactly how far apart but i think a zook tailgate only just fits in..
as long as the lights arent too wide

yeah i also knew about the minimum distance between tail lights but wasn't sure of how much it was. Im planning on running spare in the back under a false floor, using separate long skinny LED stop, tail, and indicator lights running on a horizontal plane, and small driving lights for reverse. either mounted on the tailgate or tube rear bar. and the number plate mounted in the centre with its own light.
Nev if you have any pics of your setup can you please show them.
Mitch

I fitted L.E.D's to mine today.
I used a pair of these...

I mounted them vertically each side of the tailgate on the back of the quarters.
For reverse lights I filled the old taillight holes with ally and put a pair of these in...

I didn't finish till after dark so I'll post pics tomorrow.
The reverse lights look a bit dodgy at the moment but I'll be making a new rear bar soon that they'll fit and look better in.

When I got mine engineered I had the square trailer lights (park, brake, turn in one) on the tailgate as well as the number plate and light with a single spread beam spot light for reverse.
My certificate says lights comply with adr, but Id still check first.
Nik

pretty sure minimum distance is 660mm from point to point on the inside of the lights.

surely you could fit LED indicators to the quarter panels off the door as well - so you have 2 indicators on the rear (similar to how the front works).

then if the tailgate is down on the side of the road you'd have hazard lights on anyway...

alien wrote: then if the tailgate is down on the side of the road you'd have hazard lights on anyway...

No i meant to be able to drive around with it down, so i can carry something bigger in the back (ie my minibike)

Now I just have to make a new rear bar with recovery hooks, reverse lights and spare carrier built in.

Comes down to the ADR's and local transport legislation interpretation...

viewing angles, distances in from sides, and away from each other, heights etc all relevant...

excerpt covering relevant Qld bit located here; http://www.pointnshoot.org/index.php?na ... load&cid=5

for guaranteed up to date, try www.legislation.qld.gov.au and search for transport (road management) from memory...

Spock

How does the flasher relay go now? Do the indicators flash faster now that there is less load from the LED's?

ScrawnC wrote:How does the flasher relay go now? Do the indicators flash faster now that there is less load from the LED's?

Nup.... I still have normal bulbs in the front (not for long) so there is enough load to make the flasher can work properly.
When I put LED's in front as well I'll have to swap to an electronic flasher can or fit a pair of resistors.

Good question I forgot about that part! I already had the small clearence lights beside the grill as many zuks have and it flashed a bit quicker. When I put on led rears like in the pic they wouldnt flash just stayed on so I installed 1 of my old lights under the bonnet and ran each ciruit to a side of the light prob solved.
Nik

I just bought a l.e.d. flasher can it cost $30 at my local auto-electrics [sp] shop fixed

I just bought one off Ebay for $14 delivered.
I fitted LED's to the front today so I needed one.

want33s wrote:I just bought one off Ebay for $14 delivered.
I fitted LED's to the front today so I needed one.

Just check the pin outs, may not be the same wiring as the old flasher relay to the base... ones i used weren't..

http://www.pointnshoot.org/modules.php? ... =0&thold=0

Spock

This is the same as the one I got.. Made as a replacement for standard 3 pins when using LED's.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/3-pin-El ... QQtcZphoto

dude, not sure about qld laws, but may be the same as nsw...watch about for the number plate a the back, you may get done for the towball "obscuring" the plate. i got done for that recently, $318 fine and 3 points and defect notice. take care

want33s wrote:
Now I just have to make a new rear bar with recovery hooks, reverse lights and spare carrier built in.

Ok trying to fix flasher after fitting LEDS, went to supercrap "I dont know I only have a listing for standard"
Then went to Autopro very helpful looked through the catolouge, this is what you need but dont have any in stock try across the road at battery world.
So over I gojustas the auto electrition walks in, I understand what you need but the "LED relays" are just relabeld normal ones. He said he even rang the manufacturer as they didnt work for him and they said "they wont fix the problem you also need a resistorto run LEDs"
So whats going on is this true or have you guys got LED flashers??
Nik

NARVA part no 68251bl L.E.D Flasher

So it works??
strange that they list the part and admit it dosnt work?
Nik

you only use two of the post look at your flasher unit and it will
have a B and L on it B goes to earth and L goes to indicator switch
or so the leco told me .
BONER

Narva make one just for LED applications with bugger all resistance.
I don't know the part number offhand but the unit is the only RED one they do.

want33s wrote:Narva make one just for LED applications with bugger all resistance.
I don't know the part number offhand but the unit is the only RED one they do.

Thats the one i have

I have LEDs on the rear and normal marker lights up front so they told me I needed a flasher that could do both?
Nik

NIK wrote:I have LEDs on the rear and normal marker lights up front so they told me I needed a flasher that could do both?
Nik

If you have normal bulbs at one end then a normal flasher can will still work just fine.
It's only when you have LED's all round that your resistance is too little for a regular flasher can to operate (at normal speed) and a purpose built (electronic) flasher can is needed.
You won't hear the usual click-click with an electronic unit.
I fitted LED's to the rear and kept the normal can and then fitted LED's to the front as well and had to fit an electronic one although I still have the original IN GUARD indicators fitted.