Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ok ok,

Everyone seems to be having overheating problems with their ln106 hilux. Yes i myself is having the same issue, We all have replaced an array of parts My list follows:
-Water pump
-Timing belt
-Thermostat
-Injectors
-Fan belts
-Cooling hoses
-Radiator
-Coolant
-Tested fan with timing strobe
-Tested for cracked head
-New temp sensor, gauge and wiring

All to no result
I am wondering if everyone else is replacing parts with genuine or aftermarket? i have used aftermarket parts.

I recently bought a cooling system flush gun, runs air and water through the system which agitates anything in their and removes it. I did this and what came out was interesting. I got a piece of playdo come out, you always read the warnings on the coolant bottles saying not to mix them,this is what happens. previous to this i flushed my cooling system out very well, apparently not good enough, put coolant in it and the overheating has slowly got worse and worse and worse but so has the weather, this all started back last winter.

The Main thing im interested in is ifeveryone is using genuine parts or aftermarket. the car came from factory with genuine parts and lasted for 200,000km, why not spend the extra money.


replies or answers to this issue are highly encouraged

Cheers

TOBY

what motor do you have ?

i have used aftermaket gear. still overheating but.

I have a stock 2.8L diesel non turbo.

I will compare a few things, i have an idea which might show up something.

Keep posting with genuine or aftermarket please

Cheers,
TOBY

and i have tried removing spot light ans all that stuff

Also check if you have air con there isn't a baked layer of mud and or grass in front of your radiator happend to a mate only got hot going up a range loaded but thats all it was

Thats all been blasted out with a gurnie seperately

I'll Try wrote:Thats all been blasted out with a gurnie seperately

Yeah so simple yet seems to be over looked by some.

Ok guys i may have found the answer. I think the nswer is in the water pumps, if you have an issue which does not go along with this please notify me asap.
I think the aftermarket pumps are the issue, the people that have issues are the ones with aftermarket pumps, and the all good ones are genuine pumps. I'll do some more work on this and get back to you. oh yeah and posily the thermostat aswell.

afaik there is 2 different pumps. just a change in impeller. i think the extra ones had an extra blade. they changed around mid 90's. from what i heard its to stop cavitation in the water pump which is probably why some of them chew out the block behind the pump.

Yeah mine is still an original Toyota water pump, never heats up more than normal, highway, tracks, towing etc needle rarley moves more than a bee's dick.

there is a changed in genuine but thet don't stock them,they have been superseded by the new part, i went down this morning. thermostats are very different aswell

When is yours overheating?

Now that my radiator has been professionally flushed the only time it overheats is when under a bit of load headed up a hill on the highway. This i put down to my winch controller and Hella rally 4000's blocking off almost all of the airflow to the radiator on the highway.

Mine has aftermarket thermostat and water pump with presumably genuine everything else.

have you checked the silocin in your fan clutch asemblys, i only just put a 3L into my surf but it has not got hot yet fingers crossed

Mineonly overheats on the freeway under load. The fluid coupling fans only work up to about 2500rpm, they are only a slow speed thing, if they were locked up all the time they would have less benifit. I'll put it this way. if your doing 3000rpm in 1st gear you are moving the same amount of air that it would when running at 3000rpm in 5th gear, so instead of sucking air through the radiator it is slowing the flow of fresh air through, dont get me wrong it doesn't stop moving. i have timed the fan when hot and the fan is in good working order. You can check your fan by using a timing strobe, it should when hot rotate at the same speed as the pulley it sits on. You can buy a timing light which you can set the rpm at which it flashes so you can work out what th pulley is doing and then check your fan.

I had the same problems with my 5L

Would only over heat on the freeway on uphill runs

Pulling a 10ft tinny up out of the hawksbury on the F3 would see the gauge go up to 3/4 in 3rd gear well before the top of the hill on a 22 degree day in the rain


Done the same as you and changed everything there was to change and had radiator flushed and rodded and still would heat up


Just to satisfy curiosity i went to toyota and bought 2 tubes of the silicon fluid (Part No# 08816-10001) and put it in the fan


Done 3 trips up the F3 now with the boat and pulling up the same hill in 4th gear and making the motor work hard and the temp gauge would be lucky if it moved a needle width

For the cost of $20 for 2 tubes i think its worth a try and to me it proves that the fan works at any engine speed and any road speed despite what others say


Cheers

i'll give ita go and see how it goes,im open to any ideas which may see ths problem solved.

Cheers Barney

Ok guys,


i've jut pulled my oldwater pump off (non genuine) and measured it up against a genuine one and they are quite different. The genuine pump sits its impellor 15mm into the block, measured the old oneand it only sits 11-12mm into the block. The imellor is also smaller on the non gen one. I'm not sure if all of them ar this size or i just got a cheap brand, i will install the new onw and take it for a run up the free way

FINALLY SORTED!!!!

Installed new genuine pump and thermostat, just came back from a run to windsor and no trouble did not heat up. Temp gauge sat in one spot for the whole trip!

Cheers all

let us know if in a weeks driving if it is still good because if it still is i wont change mine when i do t belt

my mates 2.8 has a winch controler and 2 spotties infront of the radiator and he has never had a heating issue yet...

I have spotties and winch controller aswell

I'll Try wrote:Ok guys,


i've jut pulled my oldwater pump off (non genuine) and measured it up against a genuine one and they are quite different. The genuine pump sits its impellor 15mm into the block, measured the old one and it only sits 11-12mm into the block. The imellor is also smaller on the non gen one. I'm not sure if all of them ar this size or i just got a cheap brand,

I had already ordered a aftermarket pump when i read this thread it just arrived so i measured how deep the impellor went into the block and my new aftermarket one goes 15mm into the block it is a endurotec water pump WP3046E got it from ebay http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... IBSA:AU:31

it may just be that one brand of pump that is no good. i dont know the brand unfortunately.