Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Oscar copped hail damage across his bonnet, front guards and boot

I've had to remove stickers from his bonnet and front guards to get paintless dent removal looked at, and I'm left with a raised edge on the outline of the letters. I've used Prepsol to get all the glue off, but I've still got this edge.

Have I just peeled off the polish layers or am I going to have to do a full cut back?

Oscar will eventually be resprayed but this is a temporary measure for a few more months.

Hit it with some 'Meguiars' Swirl remover. Should clean it up nicely.

Ta... will grab some and give it a go

This is why stickers don't belong on cars requiring re-sale, stick to using them on the glass bits.

you can also buy stuff form supercheap called "orange" or something - its basically a citrus solution - sponge it onto the stickered area and let it sit a few seconds, then using your nail through a cloth it will scrape right off. I used it to take the glue off an entire window of my mazda after the tint peeled off and left the window all hazy... it took 10mins to clean and worked beautifully!!

Be sure to clean it with water after too cos it is a solvent.

The stickers came off ok, and the glue is all gone now.

Problem is the stickers that were on the guards have left a raised edge, as if someone had gone around the edges with a blade and cut them into the paint - which didn't happen.
There is a definate ridge around the outlines

Sounds like you need a proper cut and polish Squiko... if you use a proper polisher and the right stuff it'll heat the clear coat up and get it flowing into the scratches.

....so you are volunteering then?

Yeah... I've put a few coats of polish on it in the past... daresay I've lifted it

maybe try some cut and polish. ive used it last week to get some crap from taking off stickers off my car. i also uded eucaliptus oil which is the same as that orange stuff.its wierd how its a raised edge, if anything ud think it would be a lower edge.

Squik wrote:....so you are volunteering then?

Yeah... I've put a few coats of polish on it in the past... daresay I've lifted it

Heh, no. Well, maybe, depends on the amount of beer involved... actually, nah

Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

4130warrior wrote:

Squik wrote:....so you are volunteering then?

Yeah... I've put a few coats of polish on it in the past... daresay I've lifted it

Heh, no. Well, maybe, depends on the amount of beer involved... actually, nah

What are you thinking? You can't polish a car with beer

You need to give it a quick rub back with 40 grit sand paper. It should come up sweet then

4130warrior wrote:

Squik wrote:....so you are volunteering then?

Yeah... I've put a few coats of polish on it in the past... daresay I've lifted it

Heh, no. Well, maybe, depends on the amount of beer involved... actually, nah

Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

So what happens if you use this "polish" on a 2 tone paint and it doesnt have clear? Will it mix the paint?

4130warrior wrote:
Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

Try telling this 'theory' to a spraypainter and you'll get laughed out of the workshop.

want33s wrote:

4130warrior wrote:
Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

Try telling this 'theory' to a spraypainter and you'll get laughed out of the workshop.

Dont argue with the guy who writes for 4wd monthly

Yeah... whatever you read on Outers is gospel ... especially anything Bogged finds

How did you go Squik? I expect it's all fixed up by now?

Most were removed but still some that will have to stay for the moment.

Nearly needed a *full* respray on Saturday at Son of Trials

want33s wrote:

4130warrior wrote:
Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

Try telling this 'theory' to a spraypainter and you'll get laughed out of the workshop.

Whatever champ, I spent 2 boring years polishing bloody cars at an auctioneers for 10 hrs a day and it works to get small scratches out. Yes cutting compound removes oxidisation/crows feet but do you think it magically paints over scratches or something?

4130warrior wrote:

want33s wrote:

4130warrior wrote:
Getting the clearcoat to flow is all about heat, moreso than the actual cutting compound. That works to reduce friction so the paint isn't damaged, but it's the high speed spinning of the buffing wheel that heats the top coat up and lets it flow again. Just gotta be careful not to cut through the paint....

Try telling this 'theory' to a spraypainter and you'll get laughed out of the workshop.

Whatever champ, I spent 2 boring years polishing bloody cars at an auctioneers for 10 hrs a day and it works to get small scratches out. Yes cutting compound removes oxidisation/crows feet but do you think it magically paints over scratches or something?

Don't get me wrong "Champ" .. No offence but you might have polished lots of cars but that doesn't mean you understand how the processes work.
Cutting won't polish.
Polish won't remove scratches.
Cutting compound doesn't "magically" do anything, it removes the paint/clear surrounding the scratch so the bottom of the scratch is the same height as the rest.
The buff pad is there to carry the fine abrasive cutting compound which removes the surface of the paint/clear. There is no heating or flowing of paint/clear at all (if done properly), you can easily melt the paint/clear if you hold the buff still for too long. Melt the paint/clear and impurities will get trapped and it won't be clear any more.
The speed of the pad doesn't make much difference to the end result but it does save a lot of time.
A car can be cut back by hand and come up just as well and unless you are bionic your hand isn't as fast as a buff.
NO AMOUNT of "Polish" will remove scratches. It will however leave a layer of wax or silicone that will seal the surface and give a shine.
Hope this makes it a bit 'clearer'.

sorry I shouldn't have responded little a spoilt little teenager (seriously, who uses the word 'whatever'? i don't even use it in real life...) thank you for taking the time to post that info. I just got put on the back foot as your previous post wasn't exactly constructive. then mr axe-to-grind got off pirate long enough to do a bit of trolling and it shit me. oh well thats life, like I said, sorry for being a smartarse and thanks for posting the correct info.

Uh... it did actually work to a degree in removing the lip