Outer Limits 4x4 Board

first decent run in the paj this morning,

did a few tracks, went out with the mind frame of "dont drive anything iv never driven in the shorty"

did so really well....until....

going up a track bit of weight on the rear, rtear locker in, bit of a step, BANG! rear right axle let go. Surprised me cos i didnt plant it and was just off idle, but then i dont know the condition of it to start with cos its still the same rear right axle from when frank rolled.

shouldve probably checked it i guess, seemed too easy to snap one. Following up options...

- full floating rear conversion: probably not, too much moneys, and few people been talking to rekon it will still snap axles.

- 80s rear diff or something else full floating from factory: wanna try and keep everything as much PAJ as possible.

- custom billet ford 9" axles: possible. chasing it up, maybe a goer.

Iv spoken to some very cluey people lately about options, even before i bropke the one this morning. Evereything from offrioad racing comp guys, through to tuff truck guys, local comp guys and custom fabricators, hopefully will have a solution soon.

in the meantime, getitng good at swapping axles, about as good as i was at doing CV Boots in the shorty i know what ill be doing tomorrow then...

dean

lmao!

man that sucks ay what a bummer and worst bit is you didt even plant it lmao! just to let ya no im getting my lift kit tommoro:D i hope it works out good im getting it done by a machinic so its done properly and hes doign a tune on mi 4wd.

hope ya go good with fixing ya 4wd m8 good luck

Wade

thanks champ....

getting good at fixing pajeros. have fun with your lift kit...

dean

yeh will do....

This is my 1st car im only 16 i get my ps in liek 1 week well just over cant wait:P lmao! like 1 week after i mi birthday im gonna go buy 33x12,5 tyres iv read a lot of ur posts and you no ur stuff so.....

so do you no what zero offset rims are because im buying new king rims to but i wanna no like if i sould get offset or what..

i dun really want to buy flares eaither but as a few people said i may not have a choice if mi wheels come out to far so what you think m8y??

Wade

klrevo wrote:BANG! rear right axle let go.

Didn't the left hand one go on Frank? Is'nt that why it rolled?

HI Dean,

Is there a chance the housing is slightly bent from it's little upside down excursion putting things out of alignment causing it to break so easily?

yeh hudson,

frank did the rear left causing the roll. Probably shouldve plucked the right when i replaced the left to check the condition of it, but then we had to pull the centre anyways and nothing was noticably rooted.

Dont think the housing is bent NJ, everything seems to be pretty well aligned.

pulled ith this morning and the right hand side is pretty stuffed. Cant get the stub out yet, bearing collar stuffed, brass air locker pipe stuffed, and a few other bits and pieces, only on here to swap some money into my account so i can fix it,

dean

have you fixed it dean ?
going driving saturday night, give me a ring

havent fixed it Harry. The car is sitting on axle stands in the driveway since monday.

I wont be putting it back together until i sort it out, going down to talk to a guy in sydney on tuesday, and have been speaking to Mark Hardman about full floaters. Guess we'll have to wait and see, but its not going back together until i sort out something...

sorry mate i was getting amped for the night run too

dean

not haveing much luck are you dean.
I havent had a wheel for a while now getting ichy feet
hope you are going again soon.
jeff

have you considered the NJ-NL rear axle assembly? bigger diff(although no air locker option as yet), bigger axles, stronger housing?

what diffs are you running? only 4.6 & 4.9's available though.

Cookie monster

its the standard 3.0L V6 axle, running 5.29s and air locker. STill not sure what im going to do cos if i swap the diff, i still gotta buy a set of rear 5.29 about $600 and an air locker $1000, ior just spend the $2800 for the full floating rear, or spend the $1500 for new side gears and then the $600 for new billet/chromo axles, so either way its a couple of grand, not sure yet.

Its taking ages for ARB to get the parts i broke up for the centre, so i guess ill just be getting them to fix it and throw the new axle in that i bought

and then ill try and sort out what to do...

dean

Must be something severely wrong with the assembly. I run 5.29s and ARBs with the stock 8" rear axle for a 2.6L Gen I and I punish the hell out of it. It just takes it.

Dean I did warn you of this and as I said a Gen 2 3.0 V6 lwb with gears and locker and 35"s is too much for those 28 spline 30.5mm axles.
It is definitely a weak point in these vehicles.
The axle housing is fine (Cheezy measured it after the roll) I also had it checked before the SAS and when you look at the bracing for the A frame mounts she ain't gonna move.
My next job was the full floater conversion that you spoke to Mark about but the roll beat me to it.
I had broken about 5 rear axles once I started running 33"s.
Twice after breaking an axle I removed the opposing axle to find the spline twisted suggesting that offroad fatigue had set in and a breakage was on the cards. There was a definite pattern I would never break the same side axle in a row it would be left followed by right or vice versa.
I looked at the 9.5" 31 spline rear diff but you can only run a 4.90 and I believe the 3.0 will really struggle. Also there is no ARB locker yet and you will loose rear diff clearance.
Unfortunately the 28 spline side gears can't be resplined to take the 31 spline axles as there is not enough meat (I went through all this with Mark).
His idea was the 28 spline full floater but unfortunately it was a sort of mates arrangement if you know what I mean - for Joe Bloggs off the street he most likely wouldn't take it on or would charge a small fortune.
My advice is to have 28 spline axles cut from a billet of much better material from a local diff specialist like we spoke about. The material Mark uses for his custom axles can rotate almost 360deg before snapping a factory axle won't twist very much (maybe 20deg) before breaking.
I can tell you a mate in Qld who has been wheelin Paj's very hard for many years has broken about a dozen 3.0 rear axles (I've seen them in his shed) he actually carries a dummy axle when he goes offroad to save any locker damage so he can drive home. He warned me about this years ago when I went to 33"s ("now you will start popping axles") and I thought he was on drugs - how wrong was I.
At times it was hard to get a 2nd hand axle at the wreckers as stocks are drying up from breakages - plenty of 31 spline axles available though !!!!
Once Blair put his rear locker in his shorty and went to 33"s he busted 2 rears (one I was a passenger) the other after he moved to NSW when he grenaded a front CV at the same time.

yeh cheers frank,

iv been through almost every combo lately, and yeh i had a look at the side gears myself and my old mans an engineer and we both decided i highly doubt you could recut the old side gears, but maybe a new set of side gears $$$

Spoke to Mark as well, not a problem to do it at all he rekons, just time and money - 3 month wait and just under $3000 to do it.

So yeh just going to get it back togther and then figure out what to do with it.... gotta do something though.

dean

if going for strength and wanting 5.3 ratio, could you not get a toyota crusier rear diff put in? they come in full floater and you can get 5.3 c/w and p quite readily for them. then an arb. that would be strong enough wouldnt it.

downsides being overall cost with locker id imagine $3000? (could be way off there) and the fact you would like to keep it mitsi if posible. but if it would be as strong then it may be an option?

Sam

Yeah I also looked at an 80 Series rear.
Cheezy tried to talk me into this when I told him of the constant axle drama's a while ago.
Yes you can get a 5.29 but I wouldn't trust it on the rear as the c&p on these are quite thin even though the diameter is 9.5". The Mitsi gears are very thick and rarely break. Again you will loose diff clearance.
Remember when your wheelin with Lux's/Surf's all running 35"s they have more clearance with their 8" rears but you are way ahead of a Patrol on 35"s. There's nothing more frustating than getting stuck then watching a Surf drive right through with no fuss (even worse for the Patrol dudes).
The 80 rears are also about 3-4" wider than the Paj so there is the track issue to deal with.
I still believe the cheapest solution is custom billet axles. Mark does these for the comp guys (Mike Smith etc) and no-one has managed to bust one yet. I think $1K axles on a car thats had $30K worth of customising is a very good investment. I was busting front CV's as well but solved this with the Haultech treated units and they cost me $650.
You have to be prepared to solve these issues and put some $$$ in on severely customised rigs like this especially if you give it a hard time.
If the last breakage didn't result in the roll I would do exactly what Dean is doing - replace the broken axle to make it driveable and not offroad it until the axle situation was resolved it's just too dangerous/unpredictable to risk it.
I considered that the Paj was 80% to where I wanted it and the axles/cage and custom front bar were the only things left to do.

yeh thats exactly right frank,

im prepared to wait and do things the right way. Like i said to you on the phone, it honestly surprsied me when i broke it cos i had driven the track several times in the shorty before.

Admittedly i didnt check the condition of the right hand side axle when you broke the left and rolled, probably shouldve but i think it is a relatively cheap exercise for myself, realising that something need to be done about the rear axles.

I dont mind spending the money, and iv got the cash, but i just want to make sure its done right.

Like frank said, the C/w&P on the yota 5.29s get very weak. And thats another thing is the paj diff centre is strong as, just not the axles.

Like WACKO has said too, either way i go its around about the same cost, cos new C/w&P is about $600 and locker $1100, plus the diff and the getting the mounts redone. Full floater conversion about $2900, biggest thing for me on that is time, and the fact that the weight is off the axle, but the size/spline of the axle hasnt changed.

And the Cheezy threw in a new one when i spoke to him he said if it was his hed put 79 series front and back....$$$$

So who knows, lets wait and see what i come up with, hopefully be back together on the weekend, but wont be driving until its fixed.

dean