Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi guys,
Thinking about putting a diesel in my old 86 bundy any ideas on the best one to use?


Cheers

L series (lux engine) would be easiest and cheapest. 1KZ (late TD lux 3.0? L) would be sweet but exxy. B would fit, but not sure if you can adapt to the stock gearbox - and more trouble to install than the L and heavier.

H/HZ etc is probably getting to be a very tight fit, and you would have to consider the economics involved.

could also use a 1pz motor (5 cyl version of 1hz) but would be tight since a bundy has a shorter front than all other 7# series

diesel bundys came with an r series box so that also means you can fit 13b etc with a dyna bellhousing and 1hz 1pz or 1hdt (with a 79 series non turbo box) aswell as all motors that came in hilux, surf or prado using the correct bellhousing and input shaft

depends on budget, how much work you can do and how much research and messing around you want to put in

i just bought half a surf for a 1KZ-TE conversion into my hilux... its not a cheap exercise though

badger wrote:diesel bundys came with an r series box so that also means you can fit 13b etc with a dyna bellhousing and 1hz 1pz or 1hdt (with a 79 series non turbo box) aswell as all motors that came in hilux, surf or prado using the correct bellhousing and input shaft

A mate of mine has a bundy that has the standard turbo diesel engine that is a bit shagged, what engines will bolt straight up?
Will say a 3L 2.8litre bolt straight in?
Paul.

I bought a half cut lj79 (4 dr bundy/landcruiser2) with a 1kz-te inside for my lj70 (bundy).

Truly excellent ride now, bags and bags of torque.

Some other choices for you:

1. 13 or 14bt. Good power and torque, but th eengine is a little heavy.
2. 5L, 3 litre version of the 2.8. Put a turbo on, reputed to be almost like a 1kz.
3. 1kz-te...what can I say..best option.
4. 2.8....not worth the bother.

1kz is a nice motor but for ease of use.. the 2l, 3l or 5l will all bolt up with the bundy diesel gearbox. add turbo and fuel and they go OK.

WRT to the B series diesels, yes they are heavy, but not as much more than an L series as you may think. Maybe 50kg tops, which is about the same as a heavy front bar and big winch. Depends on how much extra weight you are prepared to put up with I guess. Oh and a good condition 15b-f is a bit exy; my fathers fully rebuilt one cost about the same as a low Km 1KZ-te halfcut, but at least it essentially hooks straight up to the wiring loom in the 2L Hilux (maybe similar to Bundy???), which cannot be said for any of the elctronic injected engines.

As Badger said if they are an R series gearbox the B series motor is a push over to bolt to the box, you just need a B engined, R gearboxed Dyna bellhousing I think BU122 was the one...

There are some other differences when swapping a 2L with a ##B, but they can all be sorted with little to no fuss.

I'm not saying that a B engine is the best engine, but they are a worthwhile consideration IMO.

So would the motor from a coaster bus bolt in without too many dramas?

ausyota wrote:So would the motor from a coaster bus bolt in without too many dramas?

Not 100% sure on a Bundy, though I imagine it wouldn't be terribly hard.

The one my father and I have is going in an LN65 Hilux that originally had the uber doober 2L 2.4 diesel. Our engine is a 15B-f out of a coaster bus. Is a hybrid diesel pump though, wont go into details.

We are running an R151 and chain drive transfer (atm), and the engine mount to transfer mount is longer, so either you have to move engine mounts on the chassis or make a custom crossmember.

The engine is notably taller, heater hoses needed re-directing (not sure on bundy again). Need bump stop extensions about 2" to clear our already moded sump (1" would probably do, however we have 2" to clear other stuff too). The Hilux also needed crossover steer to get the stupid torque rod away from the sump. The axle also went forward. This might sound like allot, but most people do these stuff anyway to moded vehicle. Once again not sure with the Bundy.

Also we have to run a 1" bodylift to give good clearance, otherwise the bonnet just touches the coolent cap which is on the thermostat housing.

Have to run a remote oil filter to fit it also. Airconditioning is looking like a problem, dont think the pump will fit in standard 14B location. Accelerator cable is a BJ42 I think. Clutch is HJ75 with different spigot bearing.

Also standard Lux radiator needs the top outlet swapped sides, or a horribly long top radiator hose. Amazingly we can still run a clutch fan, but it has to be the 14B clutch assembly, but with the LN65 fan blade; this makes it short enough to clear the radiator by about 1/2 an inch, and the factory shroud looks a goa.

The 14B does not have glo plugs either, just one heating radiator thing in the intake, but you just hook this up to the glo plug wire unit (according to the auto sparky), but we havn't tried this yet.

There are other little things. Dont be intimidated, they are not that hard; and its gotta be 1,000,000 times easier than the overabused commodore V6 conversion.

EDIT: I'll just add that the standard alternator on the 15B coaster/Dyna engine is a POS, makes the one in my Zuk look awesome. A HZJ80 cruiser alternator goes straight in, and the double pulleys on the 80s alternator are suitable to. Tensions the belts good too, but we used commodore belts, I think they might be VN/VP commodore...
ALso note that 14&15B are same block. Earlier B's are slightly different block.

A 13 or 14 bt will bolt directly to R151F gearbox?

Normally they use a H55F gearbox, much stronger.

gotoy wrote:A 13 or 14 bt will bolt directly to R151F gearbox?

Normally they use a H55F gearbox, much stronger.

Only if you have the Correct Dyna bellhousing. Its from a dyna truck that had the #B motor, and R### gearbox, I think BU122 Dyna..... This was Mentioned above by myself and another member. No spacer needed, you do have to grind a very small piece of aluminium off of the bellhousing to accept the front steel plate on the R151 box, but its so small its negligable.

Was going to use a H55, but decided not to due mainly to the costs involved in fitting a Hilux TC to rear of it. Also the extra weight of a cast iron transmission housing is probably gaining nothing really usefull. However for a Bundy a H55 and cruiser TC may be a better option; though if they have an R150/R151 box standard I'm pretty confident that would be good enough.

The R151 should be plenty strong enough, some dynas came with them, and others came with the M series box which is verging on indestrusctible (these are usually 4 tonne trucks too). They put them in the HZJ75 I think for a few years. I realise this model did have some input shaft issues (not all had this), however a 1HZ turbo will output more power and torque than the average B motor. Also the R154 (I think) is fitted to some of the higher end ricer things toyota make, and they seem to handle this.
Personally my biggest fear with a 15B-f in a Hilux derived drive train is actually the axle shafts; I'm not convinced 100% that they will like all the low end torque when loaded up allot. With Lux axles you can at least get heavy duty shafts, but can you for a Bundy?

Also remember some people get away with 1UZ's with the terrible Hilux G52 box, and if driven sensibly they seem to survive. An R151 is oodles and oodles stronger than a G52. So if you drive it like you stole it maybe you should just buy one of the ex-Australian army Leopard AS-1's that the army is flogging off...

A 1uz on a G52 gearbox..............

With regards to the LJ79 Bundy 4 door with the 1KZ- Any chance of a piccy of the sump?

It might prove the way to go for me, since my hilux axle is trying to eat the IFS sump on my current 1KZ-TE!

ferrit wrote:With regards to the LJ79 Bundy 4 door with the 1KZ- Any chance of a piccy of the sump?

It might prove the way to go for me, since my hilux axle is trying to eat the IFS sump on my current 1KZ-TE!

Ok, I'll take a piccy tomorrow.