Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey there guys,

just in the process of trying to sort out my rear diff. ITs a LWB Pajero with SAS front 5 link front, 4 link a frame rear, twin lockers, blah blah blah. The car was formerly known as Frank Zanettis old car.

Anyways frank broke the rear left axle in the Pajero 9" diff and rolled the car and thats the way i bought it. Took it our for a half decent run on monday and was very impressed with what it could do until i then broke the rear right axle.

So with the tranny gears, 5.29s, 35"s and twin lockwers it seems this thing breaks the standard rear axles like no other. The diff itself is strong as, but the axles not so. The front hilux diff has longfields in it so theyre not breaking any time soon, but the rear end is just not up to the same standard.

The options are to either keep the Pajero diff and modify it, or throw something else under it, Price is a factor, but im willing to spend the money provided its worth it. Iv been speaking with Mark HArdman about doing a full floater conversion, time and money here are of the essence, but im willing if its the most viable option.

Other options include billet axles dfor the pajero diff, recut side gears for larger/more splined axles. The axles are 28 spline 30.5mm, so yeh not very large, the 3.5L V6 axles are 33.5, 31 spline. Other options include putting a hilux/cruiser 80# diff under the rear, but i know jack all about yotas.

any options or opinions are greatly appreciated.

cheers guys,

dean

Is the pumpkin centred or offset?

If centred I would suggest another lux diff with Longfeild axles.

If offset, Id go a 60 series rear, again with longs.

Rear diffs can be had fairly cheaply and longs are around $600 delivered. By all accounts they are virtually unbreakable for non-comp wheeling. It represents good value if you are regularly replacing axles.

IIRC the 60 series diff is full floating too. Could be wrong there though, I know the 40s diffs were but I cant remember if they changed it in the 60s.

Put a FORD 9" in and get axles from these guys. www.apaxles.com.au
35 spline would be the go and they come with a 5 YEAR warranty.

the diff is centred exactly. So the biggest thing for me is able to get lockers for it, and would hopefully have a 5.29 centre, or soemthing that would slot into the front hilux diff as well anyways, and also something that wont cost the earth.

cheers for the options guys, keep em coming, had a suggestion of 79 series front and rear, if i was to do the front as well as the rear i want them strong, 5.something centres, air lockers, and did i say strong???

cheers fellas, still thinking,

dean

klrevo wrote:the diff is centred exactly. So the biggest thing for me is able to get lockers for it, and would hopefully have a 5.29 centre, or soemthing that would slot into the front hilux diff as well anyways, and also something that wont cost the earth.

cheers for the options guys, keep em coming, had a suggestion of 79 series front and rear, if i was to do the front as well as the rear i want them strong, 5.something centres, air lockers, and did i say strong???

cheers fellas, still thinking,

dean

Go the lux rear. Pretty sure you can get 5.29s (hiace?), pumpkin is centred, every type of locker available, centre's are interchangeable ff-rr, cheap, can be built tough as.

thats what im thinking as the front is already hilux, what size axles in the rear??? im presuming you can get longfields for the rear??

cheers fellas

dean

well i would have thought if going hilux rear and 5.29 gears that thegears would become a weakpoint, as the stronger gears are normally around the 4.1 mark, due to pinion size, so if going hilux i would be trying to stay around the 4.1-4.88 for strength,

but id seriously look at 60 series as they can be built tuff, full floaters and parts aprety avaliable, and id guess you want a similar width the the fron or will you make em a matching pair?

If you need the centered width, maybe a Prado axle with 60 or 80 center.

I cant believe your only breaking axles with 5.29s!!!!!.
those paj centers must be stronger than tojo ones!!!!!!.
I went through 3 sets of 4.88s in one saeson, now running GU gear

yeh thats the thing, there plenty of low range available and useable. The thing has broken several axles, and each time, put the side gears on the press, doesnt look good, but then press em out and everythings fine. Centres are strong as, but the axles unfortunately are not so.

still undecided which way to go, the car is 90%sorted, everything works really well and drives shi7 with ease when its not breaking axles. its annoying

dean

sounds like a strong diff, why not just get some axles made?

serg

Can't get a 5.29 centre out of something Canter and fit to Paj 9.5" housing?

cos i havent actually changed anything then, just prolonging the inevitable really. At only 30.5mm and 28 spline its not a very big/strong axle for a 9" diff. The axles ALWAYS snap right at the diff where they step down for the spline into the side gears. Getting a set of billets or hardened is definitely not out of the question, but i want to FIX the problem not just get more driving time out of the axles.

say at the moment with the standard axles i might get 20 hours out of the, example only, a set of billets or hardened in the same spec might get 50, but all your doing is prolonging the experience.

if i can SOLVE the problem by cutting new side gears for larger axles/more splines,or put a new diff under it that fully floating and can get chromos for im sure itd be stronger.

At the moment its just a 'semi floating' axle,where axle and hub is all one. full floaters will take the load off gthe axle itself and put the weight on the hub. Question is to full float the paj diff, or just throw something already full floating under ie. 80# etc.

questions, questions

dean

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... ght=canter

You already have the front diff sorted...

-Scott- wrote:Can't get a 5.29 centre out of something Canter and fit to Paj 9.5" housing?

thought about it scott, still not totally out of the question, its a big diff...i know the guys with the 9.5" dont break axles, the hurdle here is then getting the diff under the car, all custom mounts etc...

too much to think about, my head hurts, annoying having the car on axle stands though

dean

klrevo wrote:

-Scott- wrote:Can't get a 5.29 centre out of something Canter and fit to Paj 9.5" housing?

thought about it scott, still not totally out of the question, its a big diff...i know the guys with the 9.5" dont break axles, the hurdle here is then getting the diff under the car, all custom mounts etc...

Is it that different? NJs came from the factory with both versions. Shouldn't be too hard to adapt the NJ 9.5" arrangement to your chassis?

-Scott- wrote:http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... ght=canter

You already have the front diff sorted...

good find scott, problem is, its just another piece to the already confusing pie.

good idea though...might follow it up.

dean