Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does anybody have design plans for a car carrying trailor or where I can download them from. Thanks.

LudaCris

Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.




Peter

saw this on ebay the other day
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/How-to-build-a-C ... dZViewItem

Has anyone made one from an old mallard caravan chassis? Ive got one of em lying around is all, well its still got the rest of the body on it and full of my junk, but its sitting right where i will put my shed eventually so it will be trashed.

i kno of a guy that made one from a millard caravan chassis. it worked great for his zook.
then he leant it to someone who towed a gq about 5k's with it. it bent

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.

Peter

why did you do the ramps angled?

zagan wrote:

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.

Peter

why did you do the ramps angled?

My guess is that it was to keep the COG as low as possible while still getting the width advantage of putting the load over the wheels instead of between the wheels.

PJ.zook wrote:Has anyone made one from an old mallard caravan chassis? Ive got one of em lying around is all, well its still got the rest of the body on it and full of my junk, but its sitting right where i will put my shed eventually so it will be trashed.

By the time you reinforce the caravan chassis to carry a car it will be one big ugly HEAVY mongrel thing.
Much better to keep the axle/s & springs from the van and build a new trailer.

Mark2 wrote:

zagan wrote:

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.

Peter

why did you do the ramps angled?

My guess is that it was to keep the COG as low as possible while still getting the width advantage of putting the load over the wheels instead of between the wheels.

Don't get me wrong Gutless, it's a fine trailer. However any that I've had a hand in, I always make them as versitile as possible ie have sides and fully sheeted bottom so they can be used for more than 1 purpose.... there is of course a down side, every bastard wants to borrow it to move house, take a big load to the tip bla bla.... as has been said, find 1 you like and start measuring..

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.




Peter

That is nearly 100% what I'm thinking of building for my F150, although I will need to make it a bit wider, and mount the clearance lights on the side.

How does it go strenght wise?

i have been thinking about designs for trailers for our rover crews mudbash buggy... will be doing it for my BP Award (for those in rovers or have been rovers you will know what i mean).

until reading this thread i hadnt worked out how to keep the COG low without having the trailer 2ft wider than it had to be. this looks the goods.




is that the ramps sitting in the middle held down with the ratchet? how well does it handle on the road?





outa curiosity, has anyone put stands on the corners of trailers to stablise it all to be able to work on it? like a jockey wheel without the wheel, or chassis stands or anything like that?

I would need to make it nearly 5m long, and 2.4 wide.

Are you allowed to have the tyres overhanging the sides of the trailer? not the body of the truck, just the tyres. outside edge of sidewall to outside edge of sidewall is about 2.45m on my F150.

I would also make the tyre tracks over the arches narrower, and run another set of tracks in between the arches, for my race car.

bigfella13 wrote:saw this on ebay the other day
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/How-to-build-a-C ... dZViewItem

He's sold a lot of plans recently - looking at the feedback. I suspect a lot of people underestimate how much $$$$ is involved in just the steel alone, let alone the axles, wheels, braking system, lights, coupler, paint etc.

You should be ok with the tyres overhanging, the excavators do it all the time with thier tracks over the edge. Make sure your are within 2.5m though as this is the maximum legal width of a vehicle other then that you need "Wide Load" signage and I think a special class on your licence

Yes, I measured a few times, to make sure it was less than 2.5 m wide.

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.
Peter

Nice job, do you know what it weighs?

All the hire companies around here have trailers that are all variations on the same theme. They're also around 700kg plus.

Mark2 wrote:

zagan wrote:

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.

Peter

why did you do the ramps angled?

My guess is that it was to keep the COG as low as possible while still getting the width advantage of putting the load over the wheels instead of between the wheels.

Bingo

Weight is always a bit catch22-ish

To get a trailer to carry 2-3 tonnes it's usually nearly a tonne itself. Takes a fairly cunning design to rectify that situation.
The gutless one looks like it may be fairly light ... under 600 maybe??

RED60 wrote:

Mark2 wrote:

zagan wrote:

Gutless wrote:Most companies keep this type of info close to heart. My suggestion is that you find a trailer you like and start measuring

I made this one last year for the GF's brother. Its 3.6m bed, 2350 wide, and regitered to 3.5t.

Peter

why did you do the ramps angled?

My guess is that it was to keep the COG as low as possible while still getting the width advantage of putting the load over the wheels instead of between the wheels.

Don't get me wrong Gutless, it's a fine trailer. However any that I've had a hand in, I always make them as versitile as possible ie have sides and fully sheeted bottom so they can be used for more than 1 purpose.... there is of course a down side, every bastard wants to borrow it to move house, take a big load to the tip bla bla.... as has been said, find 1 you like and start measuring..

I hear ya! Its caught me out a few times having such a purpose built trailer, but thats what the customer wanted

macca81 wrote:
is that the ramps sitting in the middle held down with the ratchet? how well does it handle on the road?

Ramps are held down in centre. This trailer tows like an absolute dream!!! I have towed heaps of differnt car trailers and this is by far the best i have used.

Forgot to mention that the trailer only weighed in at 600kg with spare and ramps!!

With a zook on the back you hardly notice it at all

Eddy wrote:Weight is always a bit catch22-ish

To get a trailer to carry 2-3 tonnes it's usually nearly a tonne itself. Takes a fairly cunning design to rectify that situation.
The gutless one looks like it may be fairly light ... under 600 maybe??

A cunning design it is indeed.

so ... the decking? is it ally or gal?
?and smooth!? I'da thought maybe checker at least.
Any issues with traction when loading?

Eddy wrote: so ... the decking? is it ally or gal?
?and smooth!? I'da thought maybe checker at least.
Any issues with traction when loading?

Steel floor. Now has 1.6 ally checker plate on top of that for grip

The floor was painted in a nonslip paint, but when an oily comp-smashed rig was loaded, there was little grip so on went the checker plate.

Any danger of getting my grubby little fingers on some drawings?

Eddy wrote: Any danger of getting my grubby little fingers on some drawings?

I've had a few people ask now. Perhaps I'll put them on Ebay

And on that note, someone raised the point earlier that people often overlook the cost of steel when making a trailer of this size. With axles, lights, suspension, wiring steel, paint and brakes this trailer cost about $4k to make. I have quoted on this exact trailer for others in the past and not had even as much as a nibble Few people are willing to part with the $6 - 7k for them

down the centre and even for the wheel tracks i used expanded mesh, you and still use it for carrying over stuff its light and when you wash off the mud it just falls though the mesh gaps,

Are rocker/load sharing springs worth the extra $$$ over dual slipper springs?

What brakes do people recomend? - electric? hydraulic override? mechanical override?

Just buy the plans off e-bay like i did !!!

Nick

CWBYUP wrote:Just buy the plans off e-bay like i did !!!

Nick

Why not email your plans to me to save me a couple of $$$$.

LudaCris