Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
4runner torson bars
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
4runner torson bars
I want to wind my torson bars in my 4runner as I have just put 2in lift springs in the rear. Is it as straight forwards as turning the bolt on the end of the bar or do you have to loosen the nut on the end of the bolt first?
Jabber gone. Now have 98 nissan terrano and a 94 4.2ldiesel rv troopy on 33s slowly getting the fancy bits. How the hell do I change my user name?
Old models had locknuts on the adjusting bolts. The newer models didn't. To give you an idea mine is Nov 89 build and doesn't have the locknuts.
If you have the newer model, you will need a ring spanner on the nut to stop it from turning whilst you turn the bolt head otherwise it obviously just spins around doing nothing.
But before all that check that you can even turn the adjusting bolts. Being under the car and hardly ever moving means that they are most likely seized. So use plenty of WD40. Better yet get some new ones before you start, that way if you snap them its not a hassle. And not a bad idea to put a bit of wood or some insulator between the floor of the cabin and the bolt end. There have been a few stories where the bolts have snapped when being tightened and punched a hole in the floor.
If you have the newer model, you will need a ring spanner on the nut to stop it from turning whilst you turn the bolt head otherwise it obviously just spins around doing nothing.
But before all that check that you can even turn the adjusting bolts. Being under the car and hardly ever moving means that they are most likely seized. So use plenty of WD40. Better yet get some new ones before you start, that way if you snap them its not a hassle. And not a bad idea to put a bit of wood or some insulator between the floor of the cabin and the bolt end. There have been a few stories where the bolts have snapped when being tightened and punched a hole in the floor.
When you adjust the t/bars, be careful as the bolts could snap and penetrate the floor. Use some wood to prevent a new hole in the floor if they snap.
Soak the bolts ant the nuts in fine oil over night before attempting it.
You will need a wheel alignment when you alter the static ride height with the IFS.
If you wind up the T/bars, you will loose down travel in the suspension, so why not fit some BJ Spacers to gain the height and retain the down travel.
Soak the bolts ant the nuts in fine oil over night before attempting it.
You will need a wheel alignment when you alter the static ride height with the IFS.
If you wind up the T/bars, you will loose down travel in the suspension, so why not fit some BJ Spacers to gain the height and retain the down travel.
I'm the sharpest tool in the shed!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests