Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'Day,
I have an issue with glow plugs not working on 2h hj60. There is no power to the resistor. Resistor is fine, relays fine. Following the toyota manual I believe the problem is with the timer - there is no current to terminal 1 with ignition on but there is current between terminals 3 and 12. According to the manual this means the timer is stuffed. So will need to find another one.

To start the vehicle in the mean time (in the mornings) would I be able to put 12v through before the resistor by way of jumper lead for a few seconds without damaging the system? I believe they run 12v for a few seconds and then steps down to 6 volt normally but I thought mabye 12 volts for a few seconds might get me through as the week ahead should be fairly warm. It is a bitch to start without any glow whatsoever. The only other thing I was thinking was aerostart or similar.

Cheers, Dave

A quick jump should be ok.

You could do away with the timer altogether. There is a write up on IH8MUD on this. Search for 'wilson switch'.

You could also do it another way, by using a momentary switch, a new starter relay and some wiring.

Thanks for that, I think a manual switch might be the way to go. Cheers

i started mine on start ya' bastard for a while, while i worked out what was wrong with my glow plugs.....turned out to be a corroded conection

Yeah they do start eventually if you have enough battery power although I wouldn't like to try my luck in a Canberra winter.

I installed a manual switch on my old 60 and it worked great, but if you prefer universal glowplug timers are avaliable from j-car.

Go with the manual switch i have one on mine and it easy to reglow in winter

The only small issue with the manual switch is the afterglow, although you could keep the switch on for few seconds after it has started.

Thanks for the assistance everyone. From what I have read on the net if I cut into the main relay switch supply then should be able to activate the 12v glow function manually even if the timer is disconnected. Will give it a go on the weekend. Cheers

There are several voltage plugs.

The ones in ours were low 7V I think, with the controller, they were only on for a very short period.

If you use a switch with them they blow.

WIth a switch we changed to 12v plugs.

Was a very long time ago, memory is dodgy.

Paul

Hello again. I understand the system and have a factory manual, no problems there. Definitely no power to the main relay but the secondary relay does get power from the timer. For some reason the second relay works fine but no power actually gets to the rail (don't know why yet). I believe that this relay is for the lower voltage glow. When I add power to the main relay it kicks in and supplys 9volts to the plugs. So that is easy enough to bypass and have a manual glow. The problem now is that when I manually activate the main relay yes it supplys 9v to the plugs but the relay gets hot and starts to smoke! I'm tipping that is not normal. I can only guess that a glow plug is shorting out or something. How would I test for this?

I am assuming that it is a superglow system, In that case power goes throught the first relay to heat the plugs for prestart (you should recieve 12V at the rail), this should last only a short time and will Correspond with the glowplug light on the dash. At the same time the second relay will be suppling power and it will last longer (and stay running after the engine has started), however the power sent from the second relay goes through a heat sensitive resistor (located in the intake manifold) that measures inlet air temp and adjust the power supplied as required. the plugs recieve less power and therefore less heat.

As for testing for a shorted plug, you must remove the supply rail and test each plug individually, they have bugger all resistance so if you test all six at once they will read zero resistance, I can't find the actually reading( not even in the toyota manual) but I think it is about 0.4 ohms.
The system does have a current sensor and will detect a short and stop the preheat.

As for the smoke from the relay, The system is fused and should really blow a fuse before it smokes. Try checking the resistance across the triggering circuit of the relay, If that checks out test the resistance across the main supply circuit with the relay triggered.

In case you haven't picked this up by now the superglow system has caused me a lot of heart ache on two cars. The controllers are prone to failure. I found that a good place to start is to strip all the rails and connectors from the engine, clean them all and check the insulators ( I had a failed insulator which was causing the system to earth to the engine). GOOD LUCK. let me know if you need anymore help.

Thanks heaps for that BEE JAY, great info. Yes it is the superglow model. Some of what you have written is contrary to other stuff I have found but yours makes more sense. I have read suggestions that you can just tap into the no.1 relay and provide the glow from that but it may be smoking due to the fact I am asking it to run for too long perhaps.

The thing I can't work out is that the 2nd relay (the one next to the starter relay) works fine and there is power to it. It also still fires for the right time and then clicks off etc. There is power coming out of it to go to the glow plugs but it doesn't seem to get there. That maybe suggests a short between it and the rail? The current sensor is another possibility. On the wiring diagram the current sensor doesn't look like it would stop current unless there was a short in which case the no.2 relay wouldn't receive the power to switch over in the first place. Sorry I know that is confusing to read and my electrical terminology is rubbish. Thanks for the help, I will have another play and after that will have to go and see a sparky unfortunately!

Don't worry I'm a diesel fitter and the super glow system still has me pulling my hair out, as i said check the connections on the rail and associated crap. The power from the second relay runs throught a heat sensitive relay, this may be faulty. Isolate it from the circuit and check it's resistance. It screws into the side of the intake manifold. The other possibility is the the coolant temp sensor may be faulty, This is a seperate sensor from the one the your temp gauge uses, so don't be tricked into thinking it is okay because your temp gauge works.

Thanks heaps. Will try those things next weekend. Cheers