Outer Limits 4x4 Board

after 6 months of no rear sway bar and a shit load of body roll i have put my rear sway bar back on.
when my car was loaded up for a holiday trip, the body roll was shocking.
i gonna try and work out a system that will allow the sway bar links to pivot when i am off road , then lock them when i am on the black stuff.
what do you recken frank is it worth the effort.

What are the specifications of your rig?

I am just curious, my Paj is a 93, with no rear sway bar. It has 33's, and a arb up front. It has a balljoint flip, and about 2 1/2 inches of lift up front. No lift in the rear.

I didnt notice any difference in sway, but that doesnt mean it didnt get worse. I do have the front

I do some highspeed offroad travel in the pinebarrens here in NJ, USA. Alot of tight turns in sand. And alot of highway travel as well.

If I can figure out a way to make the bar a quick release type, I will put it back. What I was think was a way to remove the parts of the bars that connect to the endlink, for when you are offroad.

The problem with just discoing the bars is that those end pieces swing down and catch stuff. You can bungy them up be eventually they break free and you catch the bar and bend it. If you could remove those bar the top of the bar could sit on top of the axle out of the way, and it would disco the bar from the frame.

Something similar to the way the articulator slide over the sway bar, but there would be no pivot. It would just serve as a way to connect the cut bars together when you are on the road. That part of the bar is pretty straight.

Of course this is all hush hush to secret, with patents pending. Lol yeah right. 8)

Yep that rear bar is a problem, it pissed me off so much I angle grinded the bugger off for good.
I'm considering going Rancho adjustables (in the rear at least) to be able to quickly stiffen it up on road.
I looked at a similar disconnect to what your talking about Dougie, cutting the relatively straight side bit that bolts to the end links and inserting a sliding collar locked down via pins. But I couldn't be bothered in the end.

Would the stock adjustable shocks on my '95 make up for removing the swaybar? I've been putting it off, but am considering removing it after wheeling with Lloyd! Later Gents, Paul

He's a bad influence that Swartzy dude

A suggestion might be to have a custom swaybar made up. I saw a picture once of a soft top paj in japan which had its rear swaybar mounted on top of the chassis rails with single eye links down to the axle and a quick realease mount. One of the advantages of this would be that you could get a bigger diameter bar than standard to reduce body roll on road if you have lifted your rig. I enquired 6 months ago to selbys swaybars about a custom front bar which would disconnect the same way and fold upwards which would have worked well and they had no problem with making a bar for me. They qouted me $200 for the bar and $40 for to single eye links which i thought was a good price. The other good thing was that it would be 100% legal as the bar is still one piece. If i find that photo i will post it. till then.

mike.

Paul G. wrote:Would the stock adjustable shocks on my '95 make up for removing the swaybar? I've been putting it off, but am considering removing it after wheeling with Lloyd! Later Gents, Paul

Paul,

I suggest you decide on you own. Undo the end links in the rear and bungy cord it to the frame. Then go out on the road when there is no traffic, or use a parking lot, and throw the truck around.

If you like how it handles, take the bar off. I suggest a grinder, but you can take it off in once piece, it is just alot harder.

Otherwise just bolt the end links backup, and your set.

Like I said, I dont notice mine missing. And I am an overly agressive driver.

Missus drives a 85 7 Seater wagon, noticed a lot of noise in the back, one of the U brackets holding the sway bar to the diff had completely broken off, $5 for a replacement and she is happy again.

there is also a noise in the front, thinking maybe the front swaybar rubbers need some sort of Lubricating.

Just replace them, or use poly bushings. Grease will kill rubber, so you dont want to use it on the factory equipment.

Doug, Thanks, thats a good idea. Right now I'm up to my elbows replacing the heads on Dgardn's truck. I'll give it a try next weekend, and let you know how it went.

Did nobody like my idea above? Nobody even commented on it - how rare.

Yes of course it is a good idea Mike.
A guy in your state did this to fit an Articulator on the front of his NM Paj.
The cost of the new bar was something like you said a few hundred $.
It certainly is an option for the rear but I'd like to try the Rancho adjustables first to see how well it stiffens it up on road, I might be happy with just that.

redrocket wrote:A suggestion might be to have a custom swaybar made up. I saw a picture once of a soft top paj in japan which had its rear swaybar mounted on top of the chassis rails with single eye links down to the axle and a quick realease mount. One of the advantages of this would be that you could get a bigger diameter bar than standard to reduce body roll on road if you have lifted your rig. I enquired 6 months ago to selbys swaybars about a custom front bar which would disconnect the same way and fold upwards which would have worked well and they had no problem with making a bar for me. They qouted me $200 for the bar and $40 for to single eye links which i thought was a good price. The other good thing was that it would be 100% legal as the bar is still one piece. If i find that photo i will post it. till then.

mike.

Heh, I guess I missed this.

If they could come up with a rear bar that didnt affect the handling to much, that would be great.

But I have known replacment sway bars for cars, I race auto-x, to cause cars to either understeer or over steer.

Let me know how it turns out. For about 150 us plus shiping I would be a great deal.