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Should i fit new big ends?

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:13 pm
by Frankenyota
Just got my new truck it's a 100 series HZJ105, 1HZ with a DTS turbo.
Would like to know if you guys would recommend that i change the big ends? Or wait til its done 200,000 kms?

It has done 113,000 kms and had the turbo fitted from new.
We are headed off around australia soon so want to get everything ready before we go.

Cheers
Matt

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:16 pm
by Harb
If it ain't broke don't fix.....
One of my 1HZ's has done 450,000 kms without a spanner touching it, and it is common for them to do 600,000+ before anything needs doing.....

All mine have DTS Turbo's as well........

Change the oil and head !!!

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:29 pm
by Frankenyota
Head off on the trip?

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:37 pm
by Harb
I recon,.............. the 1HZ although not a race engine, it sure is a tractor engine....everything else will stop before it does.....
Take some spare filters and off you go on your trip..... take heaps of pictures !!! :D

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:39 pm
by Harb
Make sure you change the valve timing belt at 100,000k intervals though.....can save an expensive repair if the belt lets go.
But other than that....drive it !!

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:13 pm
by Frankenyota
Already done the timing belt, front wheel bearings and brakes.
Just getting some accessories and packing our gear :)

Matt

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 7:51 pm
by BEE-JAY
If you have any doubts perform an oil sample test. I preform them every oil change, they build a good picture over time and can help prevent a massive and massively expensive engine failure. They are cheap and can be purchased from any Komatsu, Hitachi or Cat workshop.

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 8:04 pm
by Frankenyota
Thanks will look into it.
What sort of dollars?

Matt

Posted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 9:13 pm
by badger
1hz arent prown to big end issues thats the 1hdt, tho if i had a 1hz that had been turbod id probably look into changing them its not that dear

Posted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:42 pm
by Frankenyota
Have heard some 1HZ had issues, but wasn't sure if they should be checked at only 100,000 kms.
So thought i would ask the question and see what people with this set up recommend.

Matt

Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:09 pm
by vSAHARAx
for the sake of like 300-350 buks i would change them, especially if i was going around Aus. That way there are no doubts in your mind. Because if something does let go, then you will be saying should of, would of, could of! i have a feeling there is no big difference between the 1HZ, 1HDT, 1HD-FT bottom end. If you do it now you will see what condition they are in then will give you an indication how long the next set will last. I have experienced first hand what happens when one lets go in a 1HDT and its not something that makes you want to jump in the air and go "oh what a feeling!!!" When it comes to diesels prevention is better then cure cause they are $$$ to fix!

Troy

Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:28 pm
by dow50r
The reason you are hearing about bigends is the earlier (1990-1994)factory turbo motors have a problem chewing them, oil pressure on one of them is 60 cold and 30 running, and your 1hz is 90 cold and 60 running, and your motor doesnt exibit the problem, if you really want to check them, do the oil analysis, which will show up a problem, and take it from there, opening the motor for the sake of changing a non problem bearing is more likely to bite you half way around 0z than leaving it, especially if it has been problem free for over 100,000kms...
You rely on the mechanic to get it right first up, and no contamination to get in there and damage the mains.....if you were driving a hdt, id say yes, cheap insurance,
Andrew

Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 6:22 pm
by Frankenyota
The guy i bought it off had it serviced every 5,000kms, and the oil gauge reads good pressure.
He used penrite diesel 15 w 50 i was going to go for a 15 w 40 calcium based oil does this sound like a good move?

Will do the oil analysis and go from there.
Thanks for your advice.

Cheers
Matt

Posted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 7:01 pm
by BEE-JAY
Sorry I can't be more help about the price of the oil test kits ( I get mine from work for free), Last I heard they are around $26 a piece but don't quote me on that.

I would strongly recommend using oil of the viscosity stated in the owners manual, I know a thicker oil sounds better but it will quite often do more harm then good. I you can't achieve the specified oil pressure with the recommended oil then you have an engine problem, thicker oil is a bodgey fix and I would have serious doubts about anyone who offers this as a suggested fix.