Outer Limits 4x4 Board

1. Find a complet 2nd hand front diff assmebly and swap the whole lot, or,
2. Get a 2nd hand centre, cv's etc and try and repair where the housing has split and warped in places, or,

Or swap the whole car for an earlier model?

correct me if im wrong but isnt the later stuff supposed toe stronger??

hey mate I have some 10 spline diff centers down in north brissy for cheap $50 if that helps? and some rear housings disc to disc.

stronger ? the axles you mean? they may be but they have more load as well, 30% bigger engine for starters, weight? Myself I prefer the late 80s up to 91 classics, less tricks but less problems too.

Get an earlier rr much more simple and much more less things to go wrong electrically and a few more things lyk that.

wolfengo wrote:Get an earlier rr much more simple and much more less things to go wrong electrically and a few more things lyk that.

You blokes even read the posts?? he hasn't had any elec drama's

He's blown diffs, tx, auto

Sounds like he'd be best to buy a nissan

cloughy wrote:

wolfengo wrote:Get an earlier rr much more simple and much more less things to go wrong electrically and a few more things lyk that.

You blokes even read the posts?? he hasn't had any elec drama's

He's blown diffs, tx, auto

Sounds like he'd be best to buy a nissan

dnt blve I mentnd elctrk probs, 3.5 wnt brk mch mech stuff

been there done that, had an 84, didnt really break anything, it wouldnt go far enough into the bush for anything to break, it break down as soon as it got out of the driveway, what little electrics it had didnt work, it didnt really stop to good, and it definatly didnt go very well, it was by far the slowest, noisyest, roughest most agricultral car id ever driven, and i drive different car everyday for a living, it was loud and hot and uncomfortable if you were in it anylonger than 10 minutes (i havnt driven a series no).

Thats why i upgraded to this one, and i havnt had any electrical problems except for one seat motor and the coil shit itself, what im saying is, i dont hear of people haveing this many problems with disco or rangy's with the 3.9, or even bigger engine, i seem to be on a bad luck run.

Does anyone have an opinion on which option would be better, a whole diff assmebly or messing around with the old one, and a different car is not on the list of options atm.

Weld a dirty big pipe cap to the housing and fit another centre

I recken you need to find a decent mechanic then learn to drive so as not to break things.

well this was a waste of time!

RRV839 wrote:well this was a waste of time!

cloughy wrote:Weld a dirty big pipe cap to the housing and fit another centre

Tissue?

sorry, bar that post as it was the only made that was actually usefull.

It was as usefull as the question posted.

But to answer the new question, a complete axle is easiest and quickest, but if funds are short what about getting a housing and a centre, then swapping your swivels and axles etc.

I think your main problem is you're trying to rectify each driveline issue on the cheap. I've been down this road in the past and I understand the fact you may be a bit light-on financially because I was in my early RR driving days, long-term it'll cost you more and it did me as well

The main prob with any 2nd hand diffs, do you know what you're getting half the time so the longetivity is unknown. If you're continually breaking diffs, you may need to adjust your driving style esp. with 32 inch muddies. they're not huge tyres but enough to cause havoc on std RR driveline.

It sounds like you're on a smallish budget from what you have posted, but biting the bullet and spend the money to upgrade ASAP and you'll never have to concern yourself with driveline issues as much.

By the way, I also had an 84 rangie and it was one of the best Rangie's I've owned, but the vintage RR you have currently is soooo much better (well, 10 years will do that )

Best of luck with it.

Trav

You are right im tight on financials atm as i just bought a new yamaha wr250r, i am trying to get my bmw m5 on the road and the range rover is the only vehicle i have that i can get around in and to work and so forth.

As i said i wanted an arb locker, but none wer availabe and i needed the car mobile so i bought the 2nd hand centre.

What do you suggest i do to save me in the long run, im keeping the car, should i get the housings laminated and a thicker pumkin welded on (i know alot of people who can do this for me for failry cheap) to save for them being peirced in the future as i have welds covering holes on the rear pumpkin, now the front needs to be fixed, ARB ailockers are on the list front and rear, but $2700 is alot of dosh to splash around. What i dont know is what to do about cv's and axles, see how long the std ones last or what are my options.

I think i might find some decent 2nd hand smaller tyres for the time being and go from there.

I have a complete rear axle out of a 97 disco if it helps you out in any way that came out of a stock well maintained vehicle that had approx 92K on it. Its complete. Disc to Disc. Its at Greenbank on the south side of Brisbane. Cheap.

I dont have a front though sorry. It went with my rangie.

to be honest I dont think you need to buy smaller tyres even, just remember thats its fragile and drive it like there is an egg between your foot and the gas pedal, at least until you can afford to fix things. Is it a classic or p38, a salisbury may be another option if its a classic although a front one wont be cheap either.

It is a classic, i have been handling it with kid gloves for ages, i havnt taken it 4wd'ing for at least 3 months now and all of a sudden everything just started breaking, a complete front assembly is $1250 from the wreckers, there are a few complete vehicles ive been loking at to use parts out of for simlilar prices and ive had my eyo on ebay, but most of them are too far away for transport to be cheap enough to be viable.

How much harm can be done if i remove the guts out of the front diff and drive it around on the rear for a little while to get some money to do things properly, will that put too much stress on the back and break it again?

if its a viscous transfer it probably wont last long. Shouldnt hurt an LT230 but its still not recomended.

RRV839 wrote:You are right im tight on financials atm as i just bought a new yamaha wr250r, i am trying to get my bmw m5 on the road and the range rover is the only vehicle i have that i can get around in and to work and so forth.

As i said i wanted an arb locker, but none wer availabe and i needed the car mobile so i bought the 2nd hand centre.

What do you suggest i do to save me in the long run, im keeping the car, should i get the housings laminated and a thicker pumkin welded on (i know alot of people who can do this for me for failry cheap) to save for them being peirced in the future as i have welds covering holes on the rear pumpkin, now the front needs to be fixed, ARB ailockers are on the list front and rear, but $2700 is alot of dosh to splash around. What i dont know is what to do about cv's and axles, see how long the std ones last or what are my options.

I think i might find some decent 2nd hand smaller tyres for the time being and go from there.

M5, yeah my hearts bleeding for you ,must be tough.

Did i see some second hand maxi's for sale in the driveline section, very cheap, about $1,000 ea, sounds like a bargain to me.

schuler wrote:Did i see some second hand maxi's for sale in the driveline section, very cheap, about $1,000 ea, sounds like a bargain to me.

Nope

for and extra $97 dollars i'd prefer new arb's to maxi's, maybe its becasue i havnt had much luck with vacuum operated gizmos in the past even though from what ive read maxi's seem to be reliable.

Does anyone know how much the Hi-Tough axles are going for?

Yeah well the e28 is the other money pit that will never seem to be on the road to many projects and no money. ive decided to wait a while and do it all properly as im sick spending money on something i know will probabaly break.