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what one did u get?
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:35 am
by FC3892
Hey all, long time reader. Never needed to post ha ha.
Anywho killed the transfer case in my zuki, is a 85 1.3ltr.. from what i have been told there is two different ones. 1ltr and the 1.3.. the one i have is the same shape BUT is missing the 4x4 light wiring, the shifter had to be made smaller, AND the patten for the tail shafts are smaller
im swaping over the inputs from my old one... so i fixed that issue.
More wuld like to know what it is.. I will post some pics of it soon. dun a spoa 6in, 2in body with 32's
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 7:52 am
by Gwagensteve
A) What are you asking?
B) Have you actually swapped the output flanges over? Non shift light 1.0 cases have smaller splines than shift light 1.0's and 1.3 cases so the flanges aren't interchangeable. (I've tried)
C) There's actually six different transfer cases, not counting Marutis.
Non shift light 1.0
Shift light 1.0
NT 1.3 (drum handbrake)
WT 1.3 (NT flanges, no handbrake) 88 only
WT 1.3 (WT flanges, no handbrake)
Coiler (chain drive)
If you're looking for ratios, do a search, it's been covered lots before.
Steve.
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:56 am
by FC3892
question was, any info on what it is.. it has the drum on the rear of it(old and new one), do the 1ltr have the same setup for the hand brake? old one is a NT
was trying to swap the output flanges lastnight, broke stuff trying. will have a nother go tonight
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 1:53 pm
by Danzo
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 3:48 pm
by FC3892
sweet as, the second hand one i got is a 83 one sj410. if the splines dont match ill find the drill.
Posted: Wed Mar 19, 2008 8:23 pm
by Gwagensteve
(Serious question) are you a fitter and turner by trade? This is a VERY precise job. I have tried and it was well beyond my ability, mostly because the spigots are different dimensions and you will have to machine the NT/WT spigot down to fit into the 1.0 flange.
Steve.
Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 6:27 am
by Gwagensteve
Though about this some more. I don't think it will be possible to fit the NT yoke onto the early 1.0 flange at all - there's not enough meat/room on either item to redrill the pattern.
the answer might be to use 1.0 driveshafts and make up a spigot spacer and redrill the pinion yoke to bolt the 1.0 shaft in.
These early 1.0 cases are harder to work with than later (shift light) 1.0 cases which have the same splines as 1.3 cases.
Steve.
Posted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 7:39 am
by FC3892
well here is the plan, machine out the centers of the 1ltr output flanges to suit the larger yoke of the 1.3ltr.
will either make up a band to go round the out side of the output flange to give some more meat!! for the larger bolt patten. or see what i come up with in the shed.
Im no fitter and turner, steel draftsmen. but old man is a mechanic so i have the shed an tools to use. i made all the new stuff for the spoa lift aswell, longer yoke and new strut towers ect.
thanks for the help
Adam
Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:37 am
by FC3892
well it worked, it now has a 1ltr case. machined out the output flanges to suit the bigger 1.3ltr yokes.
Then pressed together for a snug fit, drilled new set of holes.....bingo.... did 600k's over the weekend, sand work and 4x4ing. can't falt it, loving the lower gearing
Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:56 am
by droopypete
Please post some pics of your handy work.
Peter.
Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 8:26 am
by FC3892
Will be at the shed tonight, will pull a output flange back off with a yoke to show u the differance between the 1.3 and 1ltr flanges... also used the 1.3 shifter, had to grind down the lobe to fit and shift smoth. then had to heat and bend to sute the different hight and angle( still hitts the floor in 4h)
Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:30 am
by FC3892
Posted: Wed Mar 26, 2008 4:30 pm
by -Leigh-
Love the flex!
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 2:31 pm
by FC3892
thanks big fella, will have to look more at your this week!! and losen the brick up ha ha..
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:46 pm
by Gutless
-Leigh- wrote:Love the flex!
I was gonna say the opposite!!
I have achieved much better flex than that with long springs and relocated hangers on a SWB Hardtop and still remained SPUA. Virtual lift, 2" body and I'd wager, much more stable.
I think you would benifit from some longer flater springs and carefully calculated bumpstops. that way you could get the weight down a little lower and get better articulation.
Just my 2 cents.
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:52 pm
by Gwagensteve
Gutless wrote: I'll just open this can of worms and run away
I'm not weighing in to the SPOA/SPUA thing, but with all due respect FC3892, Gutless is right.
Steve.
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 6:11 pm
by built4thrashing
bigger isnot always better. gettin ya springs to work in their full movement is better than just having huge clearance.
Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 7:26 am
by FC3892
ha ha your all right, but this isn't my only toy. so it was on the cheap!! still useing flat leafs (stock) longer shocks. cost me the time no coin at all..
due to not having longer ones i dont have full drop. as for the rear i still havn't shifted the mounts over so it has very small up movment. as for stable, u can drive things with out rolling them....half the fun isn't it? ha ha hey Gutless PM me some pics of your setup, hints would be good!!
