Outer Limits 4x4 Board

after sending emails to the u.s. and never getting a return im going to fab my own shock mounts and trailing arms [how hard can it be] any way i was looking at a mates Nissan when it got me thinking you could probably make a one peace cross member with links for the front radius arms lowered 2inches and that way u lower the cross member as well.......................................................good idea or bad

Why?

Crank arms

Rotate swivel balls

don't fit a silly lift

either one of those will do

id say make it it suit 80 series conversion lol

[3inch lift] with the lowerd mounts u would have less binding and more down ward travel with less of the axle walking back ive heard when u lift a fender up 3 the drive shaft will hit the cross member and Castor so this way ill hit 3 birds with one stone cranked arms are exy and rotated swivels will limit some of the flex every one with drop boxes on there patrols say there the best option .rusty i;ll sell my rover before i,d ever put yota gear on it

how much travel/droop are you going for ?

I can max out the droop in a set of 10" travel shocks with a relatively stock front end.
Slotted swivels won't alter articulation either, just correct your caster.

rick130 wrote:how much travel/droop are you going for ?

I can max out the droop in a set of 10" travel shocks with a relatively stock front end.
Slotted swivels won't alter articulation either, just correct your caster.

He's Listening to Nissan drivers advise about Rover suspension

defmec wrote:[3inch lift] with the lowerd mounts u would have less binding and more down ward travel with less of the axle walking back ive heard when u lift a fender up 3 the drive shaft will hit the cross member and Castor so this way ill hit 3 birds with one stone cranked arms are exy and rotated swivels will limit some of the flex every one with drop boxes on there patrols say there the best option .rusty i;ll sell my rover before i,d ever put yota gear on it

Sigh....

The bind that stops the front end articulating is in the 4 bushes to the diff hosuing, NOT the ones to the chassis, these will twist further than you ever will

Yes it will stop a little front steer, but so will cranked arms and on my lifted rovers I've never noticed front steer

It wont stop the front shaft hitting the crossmember, it will make it worse, think about it

How the hell do you reckon rotated swivels will limit flex

thats why i asked if it was a good idea or a bad one i can see your point so rotated swivels or cranked arms and no smart arse answers

defmec wrote:thats why i asked if it was a good idea or a bad one i can see your point so rotated swivels or cranked arms and no smart arse answers

I've got rotated swivel hubs, never ran cranked arms, probably never will

thanks for the help ill go with the rotated swivels u seem to know what ur on about

how much flex you after?

I run the simple old 80 series shocks one the front and they rarely leave the ground with only a 2" or so lift and 35's,

wat setup are you running at the mo?

Cranked arms FTW!!!

i think QT services in pommy land sell cranked front arms.

I had a 4" lift on my 110 and NEVER had any dramas with the front shaft hitting the cross-member. I would definitely go with the rotated swivels - though I didn't bother - just for on road manners.

And please don't listen to the Jappers about what to do with suspension on your Fender.