Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have just finished converting my old G16A carby engine in my sierra to MPFI using a complete cylinder head/injection setup from a 16v G16B vitara engine. I was sick of the stuffed carby, bad fuel economy, stalling on slopes and the head needed work done anyway so I figured might as well go fuel injection.

List of things I needed:
- G16B injected head, intake manifold, throttle body, exhaust manifold, air intake, timing belt pulleys (as they are wider)/tensioner and wiring loom.
- Vitara accelerator cable, Odyssey Cable Knarps (to shorten the cable)
- Bosch 0580464070 external high pressure fuel pump
- Facet style lift fuel pump
- Surge tank (and various efi fuel hoses, hose clamps)
- Efi fuel filter
- 90* bend for heater hose
- Lengths of various coloured wires
- And other various bits and pieces

First off I got all the bits I needed from a wrecker then sent the head off to get fully reconditioned. Turned out the head was cracked so took it back and got another which was good and got it reconditioned (approx $400).

Then I bolted all the intake setup (after being thoroughly cleaned) onto the head while it was sitting on the bench.



Once this was ready to go onto the engine it was time to start pulling the old G16A head off.



Once the head was off had a mate of mine who's an engine reconditioner check out the bores and he noticed they were quite worn. So I figured while I was at it and to be on the safe side I might as well get the bottom end reco'd as well. So out came the rest of the engine.



When we pulled the bottom end apart all the bearings etc were fine, just the bore was worn. So I sent it off to get a bore and hone and new pistons/rings. I decided, since I was getting new pistons anyway, to get the 16v pistons with the 4-valve cut-outs. This isn't necessary for this conversion but I figured I might as well.

Total cost of bottom end reco about $500 including gasket kit. Also got a new timing belt, tensioner and tensioner spring.

Got the engine back and put it all back together. To bolt the 16v head on you have to remove the cam, and I also had to buy an 8mm allen head bit to use to torque the headbolts up with. Beats me why they couldn't use a normal bolt head . Also put the 16v timing belt pulleys on.



Then used an engine crane to lift the engine in and bolt back up to the gearbox.



I realised there was no easy way for me to retain the old airbox so it was removed and I went about mounting the vitara airbox on the passenger side where the washer bottle sits.

Brackets I made up


Airbox mounted


Once this was done I had to relocate the washer bottle as well as the radiator overflow bottle. Since I was going to add a second battery in (and would have to move the carbon canister as well) I decided to make a battery box which could mount the washer bottle and carbon canister as well.

Battery Box


Box mounted


Canister and washer bottle mounted


Radiator overflow bracket was drilled off and bolted in new location



For the fuel system I used: facet lift pump -> carby fuel filter -> surge tank -> high pressure pump -> efi fuel filter -> engine. I mounted the surge tank and both pumps in the rear driver’s corner of the tray near the fuel filler. Glad I’ve got a LWB to have this space. I rubber mounted the pumps to reduce noise. I retained the original hard fuel lines but upgraded the rubber lines with efi fuel hose. I ran a single power wire to the rear to power both pumps (hooked up to the fuel pump relay).






The vitara accelerator cable was used bur it was about 4" too long. So i used an Odyssey Cable Knarp which allowed me to adjust the cable end to the right length. It even fit in the original pedal mount aswell
This is them here:
http://www.blackoutbmx.com/Merchant2/me ... Code=OD240


This finished the mounting of the engine and it was ready to wire up. I had a mate of mine who's an auto electrician strip the vitara loom down to only the engine wires that were needed. It turns out there are two parts of the loom which run to the engine bay. The injector loom and the loom for ignition coil, o2 sensor etc. So I plugged in the looms and ran them through enlarged holes in the firewall. They were then joined in the passenger footwell. The power wires were run over to the fuse box on the driver’s side. It was all taped up plugged into the computer and hidden up under the dash.

I mounted the computer under the glovebox. There was no room up behind the glovebox because that’s where the UHF is mounted.

I have not yet hooked up a VSS, I might get round to it if I can be bothered

Ecu mounting



Then it was the moment of truth. Cranked it over and it roared to life. I mean really!! roared since it was running straight out the exhaust manifold . Exhaust needed re-routing to match up with the new manifold.
Checked for any leaks and everything was working properly then took it for a spin. And it went goood , got a few strange looks due to the noise though . A 100% improvement on the old clapped out carby. Can’t wait to get it offroad now.


And that concludes my conversion. I'll probably add more info and pics in as I remember it as I probably missed a few small steps. I'll do a separate write-up for the dual battery install and the surge tank setup for ease of research for other people.

If anyone has any questions feel free to ask and I’ll do my best to answer them. There are also more photos on my photobucket page http://s245.photobucket.com/albums/gg58 ... onversion/

Cheers
Geoff

Fantastic setup, I am doing the conversion too, the problem is I am trying to fix up the wiring loom.

Do you have a pic of what colour wires are needed to run the engine?

I guess you just run from the computer back down the loom and keep that part only.

Cheers

hrmmm how many similar pics i see compared to mine hehe. inc the battery bracket and bits lol

lookin good. btw i remounted my ecu into the glovebox to hopefully more away from water and from being knocked around.

Nic

nicbeer wrote:hrmmm how many similar pics i see compared to mine hehe. inc the battery bracket and bits lol

lookin good. btw i remounted my ecu into the glovebox to hopefully more away from water and from being knocked around.

Nic

Yeah your's gave me the ideas for the battery box and the airbox mounts . I'll probably be copying your snorkel setup aswell

I thought about mounting the ecu in the glovebox but i need the space. Until i make a centre console up i guess. And i try to avoid deep water and mud as much as possible, but i might look into finding a waterproof box for the ecu just in-case.

JacZook wrote:Fantastic setup, I am doing the conversion too, the problem is I am trying to fix up the wiring loom.

Do you have a pic of what colour wires are needed to run the engine?

I guess you just run from the computer back down the loom and keep that part only.

Cheers

Yea most of the wires connected to the ecu are used, everything else was turfed.

The only wiring diagram i used i downloaded from www.suzukiinfo.com
In the Vitara section its the file named "1991 Suzuki Vitara G16B Wiring Diagram" Its about 300kb.

In the pdf theres two wiring diagrams, one for early models and one for the later models. A simple way to tell is how many wires you have on your airflow sensor plug. Early models have 5, later models only have 3.

If you use this wiring diagram you should be sweet as it shows only the things needed to run the engine

Geoff

what are the chances the efi dissy type BALENO wiring diagram is the same as either one of the two vitara types????

I'd say they'd be different.

There'll be some general similarities, but IMHO enough differences to make trying to figure it out confusing.

I've done a few EFI swaps, but I did successfully strip a baleno loom and just pull out the stuff I needed (VSS, power to ECU, start, charge, check engine, diag plug etc) with no wrting diagram at all. I only used an ECU diagram and colour code diagram to chase a couple of small mistakes to get it running.

Having a wiring diagram isn't the be all and end all. Mostly it's time and some care.

Steve