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removing front tie rod end on a fj45

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 4:05 pm
by fj45304
i started trying to remove the front r/h side tie rod and bought a ball joint tall belted few times and tried crc wont move any ideas

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:07 pm
by nads
heat

oxy, or propane might do it.

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 5:10 pm
by tuff 45
Bigger hammer :D

Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 7:48 pm
by BEE-JAY
No seriously a bigger hammer, use a least a 4 pound lump hammer at a minimum, and try to hit the oppisite the rod (if that makes any sense).

Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 1:55 pm
by Bumpy45
Get a good quality screw type remover, not one from super cheap or the like. Paid $100 from Tool city. Works a treat. If you want to continue with the hammer style, then leave the nut on but half threaded, drive the remover on but have a bigger hammer on the other side of the ball joint, if it still won't come off then with the spreader still tighly in place whack the outer edge of the tapered section with 2 hammers from 2 sides similtaneously. If it doesn't work do it all again but harder until it does. When you assemble it put anti sieze on the taper.

Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:23 pm
by Zeyphly
Yep big hammer. two are better than one !

Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 11:33 pm
by Sic Lux
These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 7:52 am
by sambo
try also holding a big heavy weight on the other side of the tie rod when you hit it. Something like a lump of steel.

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:36 pm
by 80's_delirious
Sic Lux wrote:These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm
I broke two of these on my 80series :bad-words: :bad-words:

Ended up using a pitman arm puller

http://www.hooks.com.tw/detail/118610/118610.html

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:20 am
by BEE-JAY
Maybe I'm missing something here but I change these almost daily with only a hammer. Hit the loop on the end of the swivel housing arm. Give it a good belt with a lump hammer and it will pop straight out not worries.

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:29 am
by 80's_delirious
BEE-JAY wrote:Maybe I'm missing something here but I change these almost daily with only a hammer. Hit the loop on the end of the swivel housing arm. Give it a good belt with a lump hammer and it will pop straight out not worries.
I was told by my bro (smash repairer) that older cars had rediculously (sp?) high torque settings specified on tie rod end tapers, newer cars dont get tightened any where near as tight and should pop out easy with just a hammer. Dont know if this is correct but it has been my experience with my own cars.

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:10 am
by BEE-JAY
The tighter the joint the bigger the shock has to be that's all. I use this technique to pop the tapers on semi's when the nut has been torqued to 500NM, Of course this requires a much larger hammer. I'm the first person who will advise against just randomly belting stuff with a hammer, but you won't hurt anything and it is the only way to do it with out a good quality tool.

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:03 pm
by Sic Lux
80's_delirious wrote:
Sic Lux wrote:These work a treat can get them from ripco and you can load them up with this then hit them if there not budging
http://www.ausauto.com/product_detail/6 ... arator.htm
I broke two of these on my 80series :bad-words: :bad-words:

Ended up using a pitman arm puller

http://www.hooks.com.tw/detail/118610/118610.html
Yeah thats the other type you can get have 1 of each but tha style are stronger just can't always get them in places you need to.