Outer Limits 4x4 Board

When I take off in reverse or first I get a cluck as the driveline engages. It is comming from where the rear sharf meets the diff. Is this a sign of wear or a normal thing for most zooks? Seems to dissapear if I fan the clutch a bit to reduce the impact if take off but if i just reverse without thinking it happens.

Mine does that too. might be the uni's are worn out .

You have worn unis, loose U bolts, worn pinion bearings (incorrect pinion pre load or a collapsed crush sleeve) worn tailshaft splines, or a broken transfer mounts.

It is not normal.

Steve.

last time this happened to me it was a very loud clunk sound... i jacked up the whole rear of the zuk and it sounded like it was coming from the axle, but the sound was infact transferring down the axles from the diff centre - i'd buggered up the diff centre doing donuts in mud... (see exhibit A to the left of this message).

Ended up welding the diff solid and the problem was solved... lol

mine does this wen i back off the throttle and hit it again like wen im cruising at 60kmh. would this be the same problem?

me217

me217 wrote:mine does this wen i back off the throttle and hit it again like wen im cruising at 60kmh. would this be the same problem?

me217

Had this on my old zook. Was worn out uni's

mine clunks ... backlash is waaay outta whack
any good places in SE QLD where i can get a nt rear diff?

how much is it to fix worn uni's ?

Don't let the uni's stay that way for long as i did that and the end of the driveshaft snapped off as it got extremely worn out with the uni's. Secondhand driveshaft was $250 So i fabbed up one using half a nissan 720 driveshaft (same uni size to match suzuki yoke)

soo thats what it is lol mine does it taking off reversing and like the post up a bit about crusing at 60kms then i back off a bit and get the clunk i best get that fixed.

I have the same problem.
Where can i buy a new uni joint?
Are they a generic item which is interchangeable between many makes and models or is there one specific to sierra's?

just a suggestion on this also - i was "clunking" recenty on corners only... the shackles and hanger bolts had worked loose - tightened them up and all sweet.

I have the clunk thing happinin on my Vit but only acasionaly (can't spell) sometimes forward, sometimes reverse but never constantly it's givin me the

Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.

Layto....

haha my zook does it too. got to fix it real bad

this really show my lack of knowledge but is the uni inside the dif housing or is it the flexible joint in the driveshaft?

Gwagensteve wrote:You have worn unis, loose U bolts, worn pinion bearings (incorrect pinion pre load or a collapsed crush sleeve) worn tailshaft splines, or a broken transfer mounts.

It is not normal.

Steve.

Possible worn thrust washers within the transfer?

keatings wrote:this really show my lack of knowledge but is the uni inside the dif housing or is it the flexible joint in the driveshaft?

Flexible joint of the driveshaft, cross shaped, 2 per drive shaft

JrZook wrote: Possible worn thrust washers within the transfer?

I don't think so, There wouldn't be enough movement, the sound will be damped by the case/oil etc and I've seen some very worn cases and broken rockhoppers (the early 2 piece design) that had massive thrust by didn't make that clunk.

Steve.

whats the easist diy or backyard way to change unis?


Kitika - which end did u use? and is it the same as the zook pattern.

i have a half from a zook rear here missing the other bit

if its not ya unis, it might be your spider gears...

i 'swingin some nuts' in me van on the oval once. after that it was clunkin when taking off. then it lost all drive (good old mum towed me home).

ripped the diff out. find the spider gear shaft split in 2, and the hole it sits in was elongated about 2 inches.

solution, weld spider gears to the side gears, and have fun (see video)

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_q ... arch_type=

lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.

Layto....

i put my car into first, let the car roll farward to take up any slack then put handbrake on.
true to turn the drive shaft and got no movement. what eles could be clunking.

tcase mounts are fine

With uni's you also need to check for lateral play not just rotational. Try moving it sideways and you may feel some movement.

brendan_h wrote:

lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.

Layto....

i put my car into first, let the car roll farward to take up any slack then put handbrake on.
true to turn the drive shaft and got no movement. what eles could be clunking.

tcase mounts are fine

Dont roll the car forward in gear, as by taking up the slack you are removing any slack that the uni's may be creating.

Layto....

I have the same problem. In my particular case I can exclude the uni's which are in good condition according to a drive-shaft specialist during a recent balance.

My problem is most pronounced when changing between drive and reverse (auto) where the whole car jumps and clunks. The only other time I've seen this was in a 5ltr XF ute with a shagged diff from too many wheelies, after it was replaced with another ford rear axle and diff problem gone.

Add to that the annoying and loud hum at 85 to 95 K's that has appeared after my OME lift, the regular thin slivers of metal on my diff plug my money is on my pinion bearing (as per Steve) or spider-gears (as per crackatinny).

Edit: Just re-read this thread and decided the title should be changed to "Clunk when I take off Support Group"

nicbeer wrote:whats the easist diy or backyard way to change unis?


Kitika - which end did u use? and is it the same as the zook pattern.

i have a half from a zook rear here missing the other bit

Backyard or workshop... much the same and relatively easy.. now i know the tricks anyway.

http://www.pointnshoot.org/modules.php? ... =0&thold=0

Spock

how much are unis to buy?

PCRman - You're a vitara, yes? Check the condition of the ball joint on the top of the rear diff. Wear in this will cause a serious clunk.

Steve.

Gwagensteve wrote:PCRman - You're a vitara, yes? Check the condition of the ball joint on the top of the rear diff. Wear in this will cause a serious clunk.

Steve.

Had a feel when I was fitting the 50ml Ali spacer, seemed okay, nice and firm, no slop. Might get the Mrs to shift between D and R while I watch underneath. It might show if there is play in the joint that wasn't apparent when I had it disconnected.

Cheers

Adam

lay80n wrote:Sierra uni's are easily obtained from most parts places, and are an easy job to change. To those that are having clunks, put your handbrake on, car in gear, and try to turn the drive shaft, if there is any play in your uni replace it. You should feel the uni "clunk" as you try to rotate the shaft.

Layto....

There's a mob on eBay who sell them for $44 + shipping for the pair...