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hi how do i mod 2000 model hilux for 35in tyres
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 5:30 pm
by jordan
hi can someone point me in the right direction to modify my 2000 model hilux to fit 35in wheels. do i need to get new shocks with longer travel or can i just wind the torsion bars up t get the hieght i would need? i know they will scrub on the inside when turning so i thought i will make spacers to off set the wheels if this is ok to do. how is the rear done is that done just by blocks between axle and springs or do i get new preset springs and shocks? please help i have no idea
thanks heaps
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 6:12 pm
by booflux
To fit them on mine I had 1.5" suspension lift with longer travel shocks and a 2" body lift, I then massaged the inner guards a little and had the camber etc modified to suit and minmise scrubbing. It stsill scrubbed off road but thats a small price to pay.
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:54 pm
by Buggerific
Are you gonna run the 35's for only offroad use or on the road as well?
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:12 pm
by yfz
Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 2:21 pm
by Duff
from the sounds of it i think jordans thinking of fitting 35" on the cheap side. so i think the snake racing kit is out of the question. anyone cut the guards out much. Is there room to cut the guards out without hitting the wheel well thingy.
I recon you can do it with 2" body lift, 1" suspension lift and cut the guards to suit. the more you cut and the less you lift would be better i recon.
on a side note how does the IFS handle 35" tyres. is the diff center strong enough and how do the CV handle it aswell. i would imagine that they would break if not really careful.
Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 4:55 pm
by booflux
Duff wrote:from the sounds of it i think jordans thinking of fitting 35" on the cheap side. so i think the snake racing kit is out of the question. anyone cut the guards out much. Is there room to cut the guards out without hitting the wheel well thingy.
I recon you can do it with 2" body lift, 1" suspension lift and cut the guards to suit. the more you cut and the less you lift would be better i recon.
on a side note how does the IFS handle 35" tyres. is the diff center strong enough and how do the CV handle it aswell. i would imagine that they would break if not really careful.
Not much cutting at all just a bit of massaging at the back of the wheel well. CVs and diff held up fine only ever broke one CV with 35s and that was due to too much right boot on rock
Posted: Tue Apr 01, 2008 4:09 pm
by jordan
yeah i would like to run 35s on and off if possible. booflux do you have a list of all parts and sizes for the suspension lift its just with alot of the parts i belive i could make them eg ball joint spacers and things like that. how much did you end up spending i have a buget of around $2000 for the suspension and body lift. and later i will get a air locker. or would i be better off with 33s and a locker. thanks for your replys
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 12:45 pm
by booflux
jordan wrote:yeah i would like to run 35s on and off if possible. booflux do you have a list of all parts and sizes for the suspension lift its just with alot of the parts i belive i could make them eg ball joint spacers and things like that. how much did you end up spending i have a buget of around $2000 for the suspension and body lift. and later i will get a air locker. or would i be better off with 33s and a locker. thanks for your replys
No list mate I just had Tough Dog shocks to suit an IFS with 2" lift in the front, I didnt have ball joint spacers fitted. In the rear I just had Tough Dog 10" shocks in the standard location, with the rear springs reset to 2" they sagged to 1.5" after about 2 years and stayed at that height. If you do the body lift yourself, and go a similiar route to mine. You will have enough left from the 2k to fit an auto locker in the front as well, if you can fit it yourself.
If you are going 33s or 35s you should also budget to do the gear ratios or it will drive like a pig on and off road
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 4:36 pm
by jordan
hi again!
I went to climax suspension today at thorton and had a talk to the guy there he has kinda persueded me into going 33s and 1in body 2in suspension. to avoid headachs later on i dont mind the idea of 33s with a locker from what ive heard i should still be able to Konker most obsticals. just a question tho with the rear lift if i use block s is it 1in block and 1in extended shackel? or should i just spend the little bit extra and get preset springs? or get my one std ones reset? thanks for your patients with my questions
This is what he told me i need
4x iron man shocks $360
rear leaf springs 40-50 mm $352
or rear block kit $160
greasable shackles pair $70
bushes $60
1in body lift kit $250.
does this sound right?
has anyone heard of mixing a small amount of unleaded to your diesel t make it run better? what are the consequences?
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 5:51 pm
by jordan
i was just reading on another forum that most ifs owners do a 50 mm (2in) body and 40MM (1.5in) suspension plus lockers for around 2k. the guy at climax seems t think im a have dramas if i go 2in body lift something about the steering needing extending! i also read that im going to lose down travel by winding the torsion bars so would i be better putting 40mm bj spacers in instead?. sorry about all these questions i just want to get it right before i spend all this money then find out i ###### up. and im only new to the scene got my lux on sun last week. thanks
Posted: Wed Apr 02, 2008 9:25 pm
by Duff
there is no benefit to adding unleaded but to kill off algae in the tank. just put about 1lt in it to a full tank and they say it kills the algae that grows in diesels. only have to do it every now and then. there is a place in Newcastle that will cut the body lift spaces out of polyurethane i think thats the material (the hard plastic that bushes are made out of) for about 80 bucks.
My mate just put in the 50mm body lift to the same hilux as yours but a single cab. ill show you his 4x4 on the week end if you like and you can ask him how he did it. said it was a piece of piss to do.
Also i would get either new springs at the back or reset your old ones for legal reasons. if you can help it be on the laws side (less worrying) if you crash your car or pulled over by the pigs.
Posted: Thu Apr 03, 2008 8:27 am
by booflux
Mate I have done a few body lifts on 98-04 models now and havent had to extend the steering shaft on one. Yes you will lose down travel by winding the torsion bars up however they have stuff all down travel anyway and BJ spacers are illegal. BJ spacers also make removing the diff and CVs a pita job. Weather you go 33s or 35s you will still need to do some trimming and still need to do ratios
I would forget about paying someone to do a body lift they are not hard at all, just take your time with it. I also would not go lift blocks at all personally.
You are right about 33s and a locker though it will get you probably everywhere you want to go without dramas. Good Luck with it.
Posted: Fri Apr 04, 2008 6:52 pm
by jordan
Thanks for all the info guys i have decided to spend the little extra and get new srings in the rear with new front and rear long trav shocks i will try just winding the torsion bars up see how it goes if i dont like it i may stick in some spacers. I ve already sussed out the body lift situation and think ill be right with and extra pair of hands from a mate to get the job done. i will make my own spacers for the job they re easy and i have the facilitys at hand to do them. well thanks again ill post an update in a couple of weeks on my progress look forward to going on a 4x4 cruise soon and my mate is bugging me t hurry up too
Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:53 am
by thehanko
IN your pricing you budgeted on bushes at $60, Iv been looking at them on ebay and seen sets for the rear going for half that or enough for front and rear for about $45.
You might be able to save a few bucks with these (and no im not the one selling them).
or
has any one got these ebay ones and got any comment on them.