Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all... i can't seem to find a decent price on either a zlink or a dropped pitman arm to make my spoa conversion complete (and correct). Does anyone have one they'd like to sell? Does anyone know which one is a better choice? Maybe i could just chop my old pitman in half and weld some middle piece in, to make it a "dropped pitman arm" hehe... any thoughts on this?
at

Go Hi steer....it will steer better and you wont be driving around with a z link worrying if it is going break

hi steer? Never heard of that. How much does that cost for a sammy... any idea?
Anybody have some drive shaft spacers ?
at

get in touch with either Trail tough, Spidertrax or Rocky Road for solutions to your problem. they all deal with SPOA conversions to Sierras (Samurais) and sell all the bits you will need to do it right the first time.

no offense, but if i saw your zook on the road with a z link i would run you off the road so that i could be sure your zook wouldn't kill anyone/

just buy a zook high steer arm from m&m in windsor 0245 879811

it will be cheaper than buying a dropped pitman arm (once available from grp, but no longer) and heaps safer than a pre historic z link.

your zook will drive better also.

planb wrote:no offense, but if i saw your zook on the road with a z link i would run you off the road so that i could be sure your zook wouldn't kill anyone/

Jeepers - that's a tad negative Planb

planb wrote:just buy a zook high steer arm from m&m in windsor 0245 879811

it will be cheaper than buying a dropped pitman arm (once available from grp, but no longer) and heaps safer than a pre historic z link.

your zook will drive better also.

Note that crombiex lives in the US - hense grimbo's suggestions of using (somewhat local) US suppliers of goodies rather than (local to us) Aussie suppliers.

the hi steer made by m&m will also work on a zook in the states, with the exchange rate it would end up being cheap too.

GRP prices for a arm is way to high, just got mine the other day from the USA for $150 AU to my door.Could not get old arm off at home, took it to work put it in press ,7 ton later it was off (rusted on).

Sorry for the ignorence but what exactly is a hi steer?????

hi steer should be used when performing a spring over. It places the steering above the spring pack instead of using the dodgy z-link.

We manufacture 2 kits, the first kit contains one hi steer arm and a draglink with quality ball joints. This kit places only the draglink above the spring pack.

The second kit contains 2 hi steer arms, tie rod and draglink with quality ball joints. This kit places the entire steering above the spring packs and greatly reduces the chance of damaging your steering.

The hi steer kits are available through M&M Custom Engineering or Overkill Engineering.

so why are you saying the zlink is dodgy? considering its what used to be used. sure some might break , but if welded properly using 4140 cromoly steel there shouldn't be a problem with them breaking. no doubt the high steer is better but i think the z bar works fine.

I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

Use and recommend M&M hi steer....wouldnt use any other

Wait a minute while I put on my asbestos overalls, zzzzzip thank you.

I have had a Z link in my 1.6l spoa 92 Sierra for years, and it has worked well for me.
I am running 33" tyres on OME springs, there is a bit of bump steer but I seem to be used to it, it is after all a Sierra not a ferrari and should be driven acordingly.

I also worry about these histeer brackets that piggy back the calliper mounts, the tabs that are cast into swivel housing are designed to handle a rotating load not a load on this plane (I am not bagging histeers I am trying to get my head around them ).

I also question the legality of these brackets from an engineers certificate perspective, for the above reason.

The link it self, is still as good as the day it was installed, however my steering box (standard) has been leaking oil recently and I am wondering if the angle from one end of the Zlink to the other is putting an unreasonable side load on the box (I think so).
As I said I am not shit canning H/Steers just after feed back from those that know so I can make an informed decision before I spend my wifes hard earned money.
Peter.

droopypete wrote:before I spend my wifes hard earned money.
Peter.

Piss funny mate.

Can you elaborate on your steering Damper placement, I noticed on the AT03 vid it appears to mount from the tierod to the diff housing, as I have left the steering damper out with the chassis extension I'm considering this,

Cheers

Steve

p.s. I never had any drama's with my z-link/dropped pitman arm setup either on my SPOA either.

bigsteve wrote:

droopypete wrote:before I spend my wifes hard earned money.
Peter.

Steve

p.s. I never had any drama's with my z-link/dropped pitman arm setup either on my SPOA either.

Steve I think it may be a case of we don't know what we are missing
when fitted, a histeer should make a dramatic diferance to the way it drives (I have never driven one so I am asuming) I am not disputing this, it is only the mounting of the arms and the engeneering aproval issues that are conserning me.
Peter.
ps I will bring your photos along to Wandin, are you coming up this arvo?

camskizook wrote:I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

My Zlink has not been heated at all camskizook.

do you have any pics of the breakage?

Also, no one has said anything about the how engineerable these hi steer arm are, has anyone had a set engeneered on there car?
Help me out here guys, I have questions that need to be answered
Peter.

Cheapest cross over steering would have to be using a mercedes steering arm and SJ80 drag link. Cost next to nothing compared to these aftermarket kits and piss easy to do.
Thats what Im doing to my steering.

as camskizook said mine broke

i have a pic but it isnt on this puter

now i run an overkill high steer much betta

The pics of the high steer look ok, I have seen other ones that use one of the cal bolts and locate on the king pin bearing locator, and another that only relies on the four little king pin bearing retianer bolts , the fact that these bolts need to be doubled in length to retian the high steer makes me sus on that one.

Red was your z bar engineer approved ?

Not stating that this makes it great just wondering .
Larry.

Dozoor wrote:The pics of the high steer look ok, I have seen other ones that use one of the cal bolts and locate on the king pin bearing locator, and another that only relies on the four little king pin bearing retianer bolts , the fact that these bolts need to be doubled in length to retian the high steer makes me sus on that one.

Red was your z bar engineer approved ?

Not stating that this makes it great just wondering .
Larry.

I have been running a home fabbed arm on those 4 lil bolts for serveral (6 or more) years now . the arm was actually made to slot over top of the king pin plate so the bolts are still "normal" length .. never really caused me any issues except once whe I forgot to locktight them properly and they worked loose ...

Dozoor wrote:The pics of the high steer look ok, I have seen other ones that use one of the cal bolts and locate on the king pin bearing locator, and another that only relies on the four little king pin bearing retianer bolts , the fact that these bolts need to be doubled in length to retian the high steer makes me sus on that one.

Red was your z bar engineer approved ?

Not stating that this makes it great just wondering .
Larry.

nope dont think it was engineer approved
btw. Overkill didnt make the zbar
just though id say that so no1 though they did

droopypete wrote:

camskizook wrote:I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

My Zlink has not been heated at all camskizook.

do you have any pics of the breakage?

Also, no one has said anything about the how engineerable these hi steer arm are, has anyone had a set engeneered on there car?
Help me out here guys, I have questions that need to be answered


Peter.

Well that is even worse if you bent it without heat.

camskizook wrote:

droopypete wrote:

camskizook wrote:I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

My Zlink has not been heated at all camskizook.

do you have any pics of the breakage?

Also, no one has said anything about the how engineerable these hi steer arm are, has anyone had a set engeneered on there car?
Help me out here guys, I have questions that need to be answered


Peter.

Well that is even worse if you bent it without heat.

Knowing Pete .. there would be a very good reason it was done that way, he does not do anything half assed .. His rig was\is engineered and rubber stamped etc as being so ..


Just from curiosity .. would you heat the tubing used to make bends in a roll bar I sure as hell would not ...

camskizook wrote:

droopypete wrote:

camskizook wrote:I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

My Zlink has not been heated at all camskizook.

do you have any pics of the breakage?

Also, no one has said anything about the how engineerable these hi steer arm are, has anyone had a set engeneered on there car?
Help me out here guys, I have questions that need to be answered


Peter.

Well that is even worse if you bent it without heat.

Worse than what, camskizook, you are being a bit agressive mate .
I origionaly had a Z link that had reinforcing welded to the bends, it was made from heavier tube and welded by someone who knew what they were doing,and was plenty stout, the engineer prefered one made from 1 piece of solid rod, cold bent in the press, so that is what I did.
What did the engineer say about your hi steer?
Peter.

droopypete wrote:

camskizook wrote:

droopypete wrote:

camskizook wrote:I had a Zbar for few years and it was made properly, BUT I never felt 100% safe with it. The drag link has to be heated up to make the bends and that in turn fatigues it. And as it is a small diameter piece of metal than i reckon there is a reasonably high risk of one breaking compared to a straight hi-steer arm. I saw redzook's broken zbar (I had to pull it off and put my hi-steer on it so he could drive home) and i can tell you he was lucky it happened at a slow speed, and not going down the freeway at 110km/hr.

My Zlink has not been heated at all camskizook.

do you have any pics of the breakage?

Also, no one has said anything about the how engineerable these hi steer arm are, has anyone had a set engeneered on there car?
Help me out here guys, I have questions that need to be answered


Peter.

Well that is even worse if you bent it without heat.

Worse than what, camskizook, you are being a bit agressive mate .
I origionaly had a Z link that had reinforcing welded to the bends, it was made from heavier tube and welded by someone who knew what they were doing,and was plenty stout, the engineer prefered one made from 1 piece of solid rod, cold bent in the press, so that is what I did.
What did the engineer say about your hi steer?
Peter.

Calm down...im not being agressive. The z-links I am talking about are those that take the original THIN drag link and are bent, however its done. What did the engineer say about mine? Absolutely nothing because i havent taken it to him. However my steering and diffs have come from a vehicle that was fully engineered with it.

camskizook wrote:Calm down...im not being agressive. The z-links I am talking about are those that take the original THIN drag link and are bent, however its done. What did the engineer say about mine? Absolutely nothing because i havent taken it to him. However my steering and diffs have come from a vehicle that was fully engineered with it.

That is exactly what mine is, and has been for years and it has been pushing 13.5" wide tyres around the whole time.

Are you saying that the hi-steer was engineered on this previous vehicle camskizook?


Peter.

As far as i know, Yes.

camskizook wrote:As far as i know, Yes.

That is good news, I will have to speak to my engineer then.
I still have concerns about the brackets, but I want to go this way, so the big Qustion is who do I speak to? I see there are a few people on this board selling them and I would like to support them if I can (one big happy family ) but is there anything else I should be looking at?
how much are they, whose is better and why, all that sort of stuff.
Thanks for getting me this far in my quest for a hi-steer.
Peter.

z-bars are Grimace

high steer is where its at

also u can move the diff futher forward with out the tie rod hittin the draglink