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best legal way for lift kit and good flex
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2004 7:28 pm
by tukadafoonday
hey,
looking at lifting the 40 in the near future.... and i was looking for the way to get max lift but still legal.
ARB seem to just say old man emu and that will get me 2.5" extra lift they rekon... which is not to bad but i would maybe want a little more if it can be done without going to to much trouble.
suggestions please?
cheers
andrew
Posted: Thu Feb 12, 2004 7:44 pm
by ORSM45
body lift? in a 40 i wouldnt go more than 2 inch. it never sag's!
then get some sort of spring lift.
what size tyres are you gonna be running?
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 6:50 am
by tukadafoonday
i would like to get able to fit 35's under the guards...
which will be possible if i do the lift that i was thinking... 2.5" suspension lift with a 2" body lift.... i just wasnt sure if there were any better lifts on the suspension side...
are the old man emu kits good? or what would you recommend?
lift
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 6:53 am
by DIRTY ROCK STAR
mate my 40 is sprung over.
has heaps of lift.
i am still to get max flex out of it, but she is ok for now.
how much is an old emu kit? im guessing not cheap?
look around for someone selling sprung over diffs and springs?
or have a hack.
but it gets bulk lift.
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 7:00 am
by MY45
Go for a spring over you get enough lift to run 35's and you dont loose all of ya flex
Posted: Fri Feb 13, 2004 12:26 pm
by ORSM45
yeah no body lfit and spring over with real flat springs are probably the best way of lifting and keeping flex. (bout 5 inch lift). but i think its a bit of overkill to run 35s.
ive run 35s on mine with only 2 inch bodylift. (its a tray so im only talking about the front guards) my springs have sagged a fair bit. and the only time they rub is on the steering rod, while turning and flexing. if you need to, get the grinder out and chop the rears to the same size as the fronts. it will probably be a cheaper option than spring over.
my mates 40 had no guard trimming, he ran 2 inch bodylift, 2 inch ironman springs, and 36 swampers. the rears came real close and if he cut them it wouldnt cause any probs.
not too sure bout the OME springs as ive only ever run my sagged original ones. dobinsons are supposed to be pretty good.
note: you will need a engineers certificate for both body lift and spring over.
MaccA
Posted: Sat Feb 14, 2004 12:29 pm
by tukadafoonday
thanks macca...
i will have to look into doing a spring over conversion. just got the 4wd shop a ring to get a price and they are calling back on monday... and they do the engineers cert also which is sweet...
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 8:08 pm
by zookjedi
go the spring over you don't wanna cut the guards on that shiny beast
and that way you can follow green zooks over fallen trees with out getting stuck and having said zook snatch you off, not to mention you get a better look down the tops of unsuspecting girls in there low riders at the traffic lights.
but remember with a spring over you will change the centre of gravity more so than a spring and body lift would, but yours is pretty stable (unlike said green zook).
also spoa gets all your under body further from the rocks where as body lift the running gear stays the standard height needing to rely on tyres to lift them which your gunna get anyways.
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 8:55 pm
by tukadafoonday
damn you stressed... you was not suposed to tell people that.... got a rough quote for the SPOA and its looking to be about 5k that is with a 60 series steering box and some other shit. that is engineered... he is calling me with a firmer price for me tho which will be good cos then i can start saving the penny's
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 9:10 pm
by ORSM45
fark! i wouldda thought (with 60 series conversion + engineers) 3000-3500.
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 11:34 pm
by bad_religion_au
fark! i wouldda thought (with 60 series conversion + engineers) 3000-3500
any ideas where to get this kind of price?
is it impossible for a home done SPOA to be engineered?