Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey chaps,

im going to attempt to make my own snorkel in the next few weeks. done a search and found some good ones already. can those who have made their own show some pics with the tubing leading into the airbox.....theres plenty of pics of the outside finished product, however need some more from under the bonnet.

cheers for the help....any tips would be good also...cheers

alot of people use the flexible hosing intended for turbos etc - you can get it from supercheap.

hmmmm......do you know where i can get some pics to see what they look like, i've changed my mind a few times with what material to use

im looking into making a new snorkel. 3inch stainless pipe.

i will going down to super cheap tomrow see what they got in the way of bends. i

yea, let us know how you go........intersting to see how much it all costs...hell of alot cheaper then a safari

a bend at supercrap is $67 thers got to a cheaper place to get it at
im doing the same thing at the moment but im not going to pay that much for a bend ill find it at a better price

anyone no a good place to get them?

This is a PM sent about my snorkal , see if it helps.

Mate , I bought most of it from Western Filters at Forge St Blacktown.
Ph:02 9831 1715
Scoop cost $39.70.
2 inch rubber bends , X 4 $14.85 each.
2 inch to 3 inch metal reducer $16.35.
Clamps x 8 $6.00 each.
2 inch exhaust donut with internal seam welded $50.00 , this is cut up to give angles on the snorkel tube.
2 inch exhaust pipe $20.00

Total = $230.45 +GST

That is for materials only , you might save some money if can get the top section bent , instead of welding , but you will have to weld the reducer on to fit the scoop.

Mine comes out of the guard like that as it is protected by the mudguard.

By the time you weld it up fit it and paint it you will probably be up arround the $500 mark.

If you have some mates handy with a welder you can probably do it cheaper , you would need a mig or tig welder.

You will need a holesaw to cut the guard and a bit of u shaped rubber from clark rubber to bush the hole.

The winscreen mount bolts on the frame with 6 mm bolts.

See how you go and yes I did make it myself , Cheers Paul

or you make it exactly the same as that with $40 worth of 50mm pvc pipe and elbows from bunnings.

add $3.00 for spray can

and if you smash it you replace it. works for me.

Yeah i am in the midst of making mine at the moment, basicaly all pvc with a snorkel top from arb that i scored from work... Will post pics...

yea that will prob be the way i go.....if i had the money i'd be going with Mart....great set up...love it

steel 3" mine was made for 100 and top is 35. lot better and stronger than pvc crap. also looks shiteloads better

is this for 1.3 or 1.6?

X2.

IMHO PVC is crapola and lasts seconds offroad. Just because it's cheap doesn't mean its economical.

Steve.

what if the pvc is mostly protected by bar work ?

it has the advantage of not rusting...

and i got a lid on one of the elbows in the engine bay that can be unscrewed if it were to need draining.

yea understood, however for me, being the first time i figure i can try pvc, as will be easier and cheaper to get right, then eventually will go steel. i think if steel was as easy and cheap as pvc...there wouldn't be any pvc snorkels.

Here's a piece of stainless pipe I found at the scrap metal yard the other day.
Cost me $8.00


All I need now is a snorkel head and a rubber bend to go under the bonnet.

does the snorkel ever cool down the engine too much on a cold night. If someone has pvc directly into the air box, how to counter this issue?

Mine was made from 65mm PVC - painted black (so it doesnt look so ghetto).

Cost less than $50, and the plan is to eventually go steel (now the angles have been kinda sorted)

piped inside by removing the air/switch thingy, lubing up the 65mm pvc and 'squeezing' it into the airbox opening, and fitting each end with a 65mm-65mm adaptor from bunnings ($10).

vacum cleaner hose works a treat flex,s plus crush it and goes back to shape. cheers ron

the problem with PVC pipe is one decent whack on a tree or leaning against a rut etc and BANG millions of little pieces

reprise wrote:yea, let us know how you go........intersting to see how much it all costs...hell of alot cheaper then a safari

just gfot back. i got 2 90 3inch bends a 45 and a 3-2.5inch reducer.

bends where 40bucks each reducer was 16 i think. they are ment for turbo applications. there silicon bends. ill post up when i finish it.

hey man if you are going to use pvc make sure you use the high pressure pipe, 2 reasons, 1 much stronger can handle the knocks and 2 it is the correct size for the origial rubber bend that comes out of the air box

pvc is cheap and looks cheap.
steel cost more but will take more abuse before it is completely stuffed.


Mines a PVC snorkel and has coped a fair amount of abuse. small knocks have not even marked it and its even survived a laydown. Ive seen steel ones that are all dented and crushed from similar abuse as mine has coped.


i finally ripped mine off after 3 yrs of torture and that was on a tree that jumped out in front of me and almost shashed the screen.

Now im off to bunnings to get another stuff to make anouther. should have enough change

I made my 2" exhaust tubing snorkel last week. cost me $36.





here's what i got:
Box of clamps and 1x can matt black spray paint.(clamps from repco part no: rhc32) = $12
2" gates universal truck radiator hose from truck bits dandenong. part no: 21378. (this hose is a 90degrees bend with approx 400mm lengths on each end) = $24
2" exhaust bends left over from previous projects = free
2" 700mm straight section from local exhaust shop in ringwood = FREE!

For mounting brackets i reused the clamp that holds the old silver air intake pipe (the one next to the battery) and cut that down and bolted it (m6 bolt) to the rain gutter. I also bent up a scrap peice of aluminium i had lying around and made another mount under the windscreen.

I made mine out of PVC when people told me not to......Where mine gos in i like the look of it but the ones i see on here exept for the blue one(Very nice givin me some ideas!) Look pretty cheap and crapy to me!

BUT as i was gunna say DON'T USE PVC i seem to smash one nearly every trip and there just a waste of time and money! Make one up out of PVC and use that as a template for a stainless bent one! Thats what i'm doin when i have some cash!

hey lilzook. why did you end it so high above the screen. would look alot better if it was cut back to same height.

doubt ya would be able to drive into water that deep.

built4thrashing wrote:hey lilzook. why did you end it so high above the screen. would look alot better if it was cut back to same height.

doubt ya would be able to drive into water that deep.

i know, i know . the piping was already that long when i got it and i was too lazy to cut it. i will cut it now though. your not the first person to mention it

My snorkle:
3 inch aluminium pipe - lighter than stainless, i got free offcuts
3 inch rubber bends, 3-2 inch rubber pipe reducer and stainless hose clamps from truckbits in hallam
a white downpipe clamp from bunnings which i spray painted black and screwed into original window mount and a downpipe mesh leaf guard that fits snugly onto the end of the snorkle to keep leaves/mud/beercans out.

i went a step further than most when adapting to the airbox. when running the weber i enlarged the pipe going into the filter box to the same size 65mm pipe and siliconed it in.


hey dank you must be a nice mate to hold onto everyones cans in ya snorkel

yeah, i am going to keep the PVC - to - airbox (everything under the bonnet) when i go to steel... it just works, and i can hardly see it getting damaged under there!