Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys, finally got around to fitting my water temp and volt gauge on my sierra. (here's a pic of the final product)



This may be a long shot but my autogage electric water temp gauge isnt working properly after i wired it all up. when i start the motor, the gauge goes nuts. Up and down, hovers around 80degrees (engine is dead cold still). it doesnt stop or settle on any temp even once it's warmed up.

the factory dash temp gauge is wired in aswell. i also tried using the new temp sensor they supplied in the package but i got the same result..



there is one wire i'm not 100% on. its the orange wire in the diagram. i wired it to 12v ignition. in the pic it shows a switch and some other things i dont understand. here's a pic of the diagram.



any help/ideas appreciated.

is it possible to get a clearer pic of that wiring diagram? or can you redraw it for us?

Orange will be for your Accessory line, Yellow to the Batt, and last one goes to Sensor :S


Im not sure why you have the 2 wires from Alt, and your sensor wire crimped into one, but might be somewhere to look...

what brand gauges are they? im looking into changing my gauges (autobarn 7 colour ones)
so far i got oil presure, water temp and volts.

looking for new gauges with oil presure, water temp metric, volts, maybe air/fuel and maybe vacumme.
is it worth to put an air/fuel gauge on? i got a 1,6 EFI

Not that this will help the jumping around problem but I would be surprised if the orignal sensor in the car is going to give you an accurate reading on the new gauge. The gauge would be calibrated to the resistance curve of the sensor that came with it. Use the new sensor when you have your wiring sorted.

Brendan. If your running the stock ECU there is no point in getting an Air Fuel (AFR) Meter. It would set you back about $400 at the cheapest with sensor, controler and display. It would tell you the AFR no worries but you wont be able to do anything about correcting lean/rich parts fo the fuel map anyway.

yer i am shure i have oxy sensors on the exhaust thow if that helps or anything. i cant tune it myself but at least i have an ider of whats going on? or still prob not worth the money?

brendan_hh wrote:yer i am shure i have oxy sensors on the exhaust thow if that helps or anything. i cant tune it myself but at least i have an ider of whats going on? or still prob not worth the money?

yeah spend the money on something else, there is no need for one........


Muz.

brendan_hh wrote:yer i am shure i have oxy sensors on the exhaust thow if that helps or anything. i cant tune it myself but at least i have an ider of whats going on? or still prob not worth the money?

Nah the sensor you have is only a narrowband unit. Basically only meaures 14.7 AFR (stoich) or rich or lean. You'd need to get another wideband sensor (about $100) installed in your exhaust, a controller($200 and up) and a display ($100) to show accurate AFR ranges. The guages you have now can already tell you theres a problem which is all an AFR guage is any good for without a tuneable ecu. Honestly its just a plain waste of money.

you should be able to get a pretty accurate read from your water temp gauge but you'll have to only wire the one gauge to the original sensor, not run the two off it

so either wire the new gauge to the sensor and disconnect the factory or vice versa as the original sender inst made to give a reading to dual gauges, only one.

well that was the case with my old commodore, new electric gauge gave a good reading when run off the factory sensor

[quote=""CANADA""]Orange will be for your Accessory line, Yellow to the Batt, and last one goes to Sensor :S


Im not sure why you have the 2 wires from Alt, and your sensor wire crimped into one, but might be somewhere to look...[/quote]

the alt wires arent crimped to the sensor wire. it just looks like it is in that picture

heres a better pic. i have the orange wire connected to the red. 12v ignition source.

mick85 wrote:you should be able to get a pretty accurate read from your water temp gauge but you'll have to only wire the one gauge to the original sensor, not run the two off it

so either wire the new gauge to the sensor and disconnect the factory or vice versa as the original sender inst made to give a reading to dual gauges, only one.

well that was the case with my old commodore, new electric gauge gave a good reading when run off the factory sensor

I havnt tried one at a time yet, i'l give that a go, cheers

hey lil zook wht brand gauges do you have where diget them?

hybrid- do you think a vacuum gauge is worth it? good to see how much more you need to give it offroad?

Hybrid wrote:

brendan_hh wrote:yer i am shure i have oxy sensors on the exhaust thow if that helps or anything. i cant tune it myself but at least i have an ider of whats going on? or still prob not worth the money?

Nah the sensor you have is only a narrowband unit. Basically only meaures 14.7 AFR (stoich) or rich or lean. You'd need to get another wideband sensor (about $100) installed in your exhaust, a controller($200 and up) and a display ($100) to show accurate AFR ranges. The guages you have now can already tell you theres a problem which is all an AFR guage is any good for without a tuneable ecu. Honestly its just a plain waste of money.

just for the sake of it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTOMETER-AIR-FU ... dZViewItem say will work with most narrow band units

got it working properly.

Note: only one gauge per sender. I unplugged the factory dash gauge wire and the new one works spot on pity i cant have them both going.

Brendan_hh - got the gauges for free from a mate. there just cheapo ones, not sure where theyre from.

lilzook wrote:got it working properly.

Note: only one gauge per sender. I unplugged the factory dash gauge wire and the new one works spot on pity i cant have them both going.

Brendan_hh - got the gauges for free from a mate. there just cheapo ones, not sure where theyre from.

told ya so hehe youll be better off with the aftermarket one as youll get a more accurate reading over just the factory one which tells you hot and cold and in between.

brendan_hh wrote: just for the sake of it http://cgi.ebay.com.au/AUTOMETER-AIR-FU ... dZViewItem say will work with most narrow band units

If your really that keen go for it. I would have thought a gauge showing reach stoich lean would be constantly jumping from lean to rich and back as you went from part thottle to acceleration enrichment etc. When you think its going to only have the one 14.7 Stoich crossever point to work off with a narrow band.

mick85 wrote:told ya so hehe youll be better off with the aftermarket one as youll get a more accurate reading over just the factory one which tells you hot and cold and in between.

Haha. thanks mick you were right.