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lifting front shock towers, yes i have searched
Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 11:08 am
by 110 TUFF
Can someone tell me what's the big black box above my drivers side shock tower?? can this be moved
want to lift front towers on my 96 110 wagon. would a poly block be alright to use as a spacer and how strong are the orig towers?
Drew.
Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 1:47 pm
by bazzle
You will have to use steel if fabbing or ally/steel if spacing. All the vibrational force of shock is there and needs to be solid..
Black box?? whtas joined to it?
Bazzle
Posted: Sun Feb 15, 2004 2:00 pm
by 110 TUFF
its says " FILL COOLANT WHEN COLD ", so it must hold coolant right?:roll: .....
not sure where it goes to. bit of plumbing underneath it. all i know is that it 's in the way and ive got about 20mm of space bettween the bottom of it and the top pin on the shock. why is nothing easy!!
Drew.
Posted: Mon Feb 16, 2004 10:36 am
by N*A*M
i think madrangie on the board has a kit for extending shock towers
pm him for info on how he does it, or on the kit
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 8:35 am
by GRIMACE
I have the RS front shock adjustment kit here that I am not using, I figure that this stuff will be usfull for some people so I if your interested let me know.
Ask Mickrangie on the board what he thinks about his as he has the entire 30% extra articulation kit installed
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 3:04 pm
by modman
i used a cheap and easy method to lift the front turrets on a 93 110.
i could lift the turret 30mm without hitting the coolant reservior.
it looks like the reservior could be lifted another 10mm just by lengthening the bottom mount. the top mount holes should already be elongated.
the spacers are made from 25mm solid bar drilled and tapped 5/16 in 25-30 mm lengths.
simply unbolt the turret screw the spacer on and bolt the turret back down with 10-15 mm 5/16 medium tensile bolts.
it is easier to make 30mm spacers because then you don't need to shorten the turret ring bolts and you can still use 15mm bolts to fix the turret back down.
not as bling bling as tubular turrets but dirt cheap to make!!
david.
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 5:00 pm
by 110 TUFF
thanks fellas, modmans idea seems the be the cheapest, snake racing want about $220 a pair ( i think ) for new turrets. will try lifting that resivore a bit.
in regards to the 30% artic kit from rangie spares, i do belive that you must be running a 2 inch body lift for this to work. defenders seem to be hard to lift, therfore i dont think it will work on my truck.
Drew.
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 5:28 pm
by mickrangie
110 TUFF wrote:in regards to the 30% artic kit from rangie spares, i do belive that you must be running a 2 inch body lift for this to work.
Yep yr right... 2" body lift to get the most out of it anyway...
HTH
Posted: Tue Feb 17, 2004 7:39 pm
by 110 TUFF
was able to have a good look, fiddle and measure this arvo and should be able to lift the drivers side mount approx. 100mm. this will require slightly moving the coolant cotainer on its orig brackets closer to the fuel pump. the top shock pin should rest beside the coolant container.
now just got to workout a shock to use.
Drew.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 6:54 am
by HSV Rangie
Give koni or bilstien a call they wil both build a shock to suit.
suit spring rates and lth. may not be the cheapest but will work correctly.
Michael.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 7:44 am
by red90
110 TUFF wrote:its says " FILL COOLANT WHEN COLD ", so it must hold coolant right?:roll: .....
OMG, may I suggest if you don't know what the coolant resevoir is, you shouldn't be modifying the suspension.
You might want to check the fluid levels in your 110 ASAP.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 2:54 pm
by modman
here's a tip for a longer shock- toy 80 series front.
i am using ride pros at the moment, chris hummer and locky use them for racing so they can't be that bad.
the valving seems really nice with sams holey bushes as well
the measurements are-
360 mm compressed
612 mm extended
252 mm travel (9.92")
with internal bumpstop
hard to get more travel than this out of the rover front end unless you 3 link or hinge an arm.
not a bad shock for $230 a pair.
the same konis are $370 a pair when i checked.
david
(let us know what you decide)
i think?? landman may be using pro comps, another option.
Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2004 4:26 pm
by landy_man
modman wrote:i think?? landyman may be using pro comps, another option.
nope...I am running some custom Koni's....Bought some long konis secondhand - very cheap....had the mounts changed to suit rangie, had them revalved to suit my rig, supplied them axle weight, vehicle weight and spring rate...As they can be stiffened up I asked them to make the base setting a little softer...
and fully serviced while they were apart...have only driven a little with them and they are beautiful...maybe a little soft but that is okay.
Posted: Thu Feb 19, 2004 8:10 am
by rick130
The Koni 80 series shock is pt # 82-2385
specs are
617mm open,
370mm closed,
no internal bump stop, although I think a top out rubber can be fitted, but it would limit full extension. If you go metal to metal with these in bump/compression, you kill the foot valve (bump valve assembly) and the rebound adjuster nut. It's a pretty easy/cheap fix if you do, 'though
Rick.