Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i have gq patrol and have 4 inch suspension, no body lift. what size tyres would i be able to fit, was thinking about trimming the guards but didnt know weather it was gonna get me much more clearance for the tyres.

a-dog wrote:i have gq patrol and have 4 inch suspension, no body lift. what size tyres would i be able to fit, was thinking about trimming the guards but didnt know weather it was gonna get me much more clearance for the tyres.

if you wanna trim guards, you can get 39's on....

what body style? if its a wagon/shorty, with a 1/4 cut will fit 35" with a 13mm radius arm spacer.

How big do you want?

its a lwb wagon. was pretty sure i would get 35s but was thinkin bout 37s.

if its a 4.2l it will drive fine on 35" if you go 37" you should fit redution trans gears or it will be a pig to drive offroad.

I would run 35" cut the 1/4 panels if not done already and the front arm spacers or longer drop arms and that will get you most places with lockers.

35" do it will run them fine

My 92 maverick has 4" springs no body lift and no guard chop and runs 35x12.5r15 cooper stt with slight rubbing. Now run 35x10.5/15 simex and have found to rub much worse. Had to take to the rear quarter with a hammer to roll the guard to stop it chopping the simex to bits. Still rubs but I can now put up with it.

I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

for onroad and offroad driving you will probably want to change diff ratios too, round $500-1000 per diff, and while they are out you may as well fit lockers, as the diff centers are out to do gears...

With the 35's, you can pretty well fit them with no trimming, move control arms 12-15mm forward, and they clear the mudflaps on front arch.. they will always rub on the inner guard.

It depends on wat 35's you run.'

Is it a daily driver?

bogged wrote:

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

for onroad and offroad driving you will probably want to change diff ratios too, round $500-1000 per diff, and while they are out you may as well fit lockers, as the diff centers are out to do gears...

With the 35's, you can pretty well fit them with no trimming, move control arms 12-15mm forward, and they clear the mudflaps on front arch.. they will always rub on the inner guard.

It depends on wat 35's you run.'

Is it a daily driver?

yes its a daily but dont think the tyres will be
and was thinkin 37s not 35s
already moved the front arms ford 13mm and bout to cut the rear quarters but just wasnt sure bout the guards

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

My front guards just cleared without trimming with just the diff spaced 25mm forward (even when the springs sagged and were only 3 inches above standard height). The rears had the quarters chopped and about 30 to 40 mm off the back of the wheel-arch with a 65mm bump-stop extension and 25mm longer lower control arms. They are a tight fit like this but they do fit but you might as well trim more off the guards and give yourself plenty of room while you are doing it. I am in the process of trimming mine some more at the moment to balance the look and so I can run bigger tyres if the need arises, so you might as well chop plenty off first time around. ZOOK60 off here chopped his guards to fit 38's with just a 2 inch lift so there is plenty of metal that can be cut off.

I've got 4" lift and 33's (33x12.5R15 on 15x8 -23ET). Clears it all fine, doesn't scub anywhere anytime.

If the truck didn't already have two brand new tyres when i got it, i would have put 35 - 36's on it.

Go 35-36 and you'll be right! Or buy my 33's off me.....

Coxy

a-dog wrote:

bogged wrote:

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

for onroad and offroad driving you will probably want to change diff ratios too, round $500-1000 per diff, and while they are out you may as well fit lockers, as the diff centers are out to do gears...

With the 35's, you can pretty well fit them with no trimming, move control arms 12-15mm forward, and they clear the mudflaps on front arch.. they will always rub on the inner guard.

It depends on wat 35's you run.'

Is it a daily driver?

yes its a daily but dont think the tyres will be
and was thinkin 37s not 35s
already moved the front arms ford 13mm and bout to cut the rear quarters but just wasnt sure bout the guards

Mine is a daily driver on the 37's and drives over 15,000km in 3 months during winter. They are MTRs so they are not bad on road, the only problem with them is they don't stop as good as smaller tyres but I can still get them to lock up if I push the peddle hard enough.

Nelso wrote:

a-dog wrote:

bogged wrote:

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:I've got 4 inch, no body lift and run 37's. With a bit more guard trimming I could definitely run 39's as bogged said. You will wheel much better with the reduction transfer gears with whatever tyres you choose, so do the gearing and then get the 37's, you will not regret it.

so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

for onroad and offroad driving you will probably want to change diff ratios too, round $500-1000 per diff, and while they are out you may as well fit lockers, as the diff centers are out to do gears...

With the 35's, you can pretty well fit them with no trimming, move control arms 12-15mm forward, and they clear the mudflaps on front arch.. they will always rub on the inner guard.

It depends on wat 35's you run.'

Is it a daily driver?

yes its a daily but dont think the tyres will be
and was thinkin 37s not 35s
already moved the front arms ford 13mm and bout to cut the rear quarters but just wasnt sure bout the guards

Mine is a daily driver on the 37's and drives over 15,000km in 3 months during winter. They are MTRs so they are not bad on road, the only problem with them is they don't stop as good as smaller tyres but I can still get them to lock up if I push the peddle hard enough.

have you changed your diff ratio and what sort of trans gear reduction should i be looking at to run 37s. was looking at marks adapters for the gears do you know if these are good.

a-dog wrote:

Nelso wrote:

a-dog wrote:

bogged wrote:

a-dog wrote: so how much did you have to trim of the guards to get them to fit. i probly will go for the 37s becuase i was thinkin bout fittin the reduction gears already.

for onroad and offroad driving you will probably want to change diff ratios too, round $500-1000 per diff, and while they are out you may as well fit lockers, as the diff centers are out to do gears...

With the 35's, you can pretty well fit them with no trimming, move control arms 12-15mm forward, and they clear the mudflaps on front arch.. they will always rub on the inner guard.

It depends on wat 35's you run.'

Is it a daily driver?

yes its a daily but dont think the tyres will be
and was thinkin 37s not 35s
already moved the front arms ford 13mm and bout to cut the rear quarters but just wasnt sure bout the guards

Mine is a daily driver on the 37's and drives over 15,000km in 3 months during winter. They are MTRs so they are not bad on road, the only problem with them is they don't stop as good as smaller tyres but I can still get them to lock up if I push the peddle hard enough.

have you changed your diff ratio and what sort of trans gear reduction should i be looking at to run 37s. was looking at marks adapters for the gears do you know if these are good.

Still running 4.1's but would like to fit 4.6's when I have the spare cash, but it is not essential with the turbo diesel. I am running 83% transfer gears which work well with the 37's. You will glaze your clutch every time you go out wheeling with 37's if you keep your standard gearing so get the transfer gears as soon as you get the tyres.

Hi guys, What did you all use for spacers to shift control arms forward?
Does any 4wd places have them?
With my set up I have no probs with 35's just a little bit close when turning on front guards.

twodiffs wrote:Hi guys, What did you all use for spacers to shift control arms forward?
Does any 4wd places have them?
With my set up I have no probs with 35's just a little bit close when turning on front guards.

i know superior and marks adapters have them for sale but i just got a mate to make mine.

What did you make them out of, Alloy? Nylon?
what side diameter and thickness?

twodiffs wrote:What did you make them out of, Alloy? Nylon?
what side diameter and thickness?

just mild steel
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Thanks for the drawing, much appreciated. I think that would be cheaper than guard trimming. More Q's though sorry - why two different sizes of spacer? does anyone have a photo of these in place?

twodiffs wrote:Thanks for the drawing, much appreciated. I think that would be cheaper than guard trimming. More Q's though sorry - why two different sizes of spacer? does anyone have a photo of these in place?

its hard to explain but the big one spaces the arm forward and the smaller one stops the nut from being overtightened and sqaushing the rubber bush on the arm. if that makes sense. id take a photo but you cant see the smaller one in place onces its together. but it should make sense when you take it apart

cool thanks, I just had a look at the websites for Marks & Superior too but I'll try and get them made up somewhere here first. What is the procedure for installing these?

Undo the rear nuts and front bolts on control arms (1 side at a time), does control arm drop out easily or do I have to manoeuver the diff forward somehow?

Marks have 10mm and Superior 12mm so obviously 10-12mm is all that is needed? I probably have 10mm clearance at the mo so spacers will give me 22mm - is that enough?

The spacers I made are 14mm long, the bigger spacer goes between the front bush retaining washer and the arm, the smaller one goes over the threaded pin against the shoulder of the arm and is inside the bush.

Hopefully this made more sence.

getting there - your saying that fitting is as follows?

working from front of arm to rear (threaded end)
big spacer - retaining washer - front bush - small spacer then tightened as normal?

i run 35's with 6 inch lift.. they only ever rub when its fully flexed - with swaybars disconected

I've only ever run 33's on mine with no probs. My first GQ had a 4" susp lift and no body lift so there were no probs with articulation there either.
Went to buy new tyres a few weeks ago and there was only $30 NZD difference between 33's and 35's so went for 35's. Was surprised how easy it turned them too, my on road tyres are 31" muds. It looks b####y stupid on the smaller tyres..it's just about embarrasing to be seen driving it! Getting those spacers from Superior this week, damn good deal i reckon! Keen to see the difference with the 35's, i removed my swaybars a long time ago.

my 35" BFG AT's rubbed the rear edge of the front gaurd goin up gutters with 6" lift n no body lift without radius arm spacers.

Is this the same size/dimensions that can be used for a GU ?

yes same sizes, same bushes ect.