Outer Limits 4x4 Board

i did a search and came up with a thread from way back, but it only really covered the F300 and different car models shocks to suit more the rears.

has anyone yet worked out or tried a decent set of shocks form another vehicle to suit the front of a raised F310 widetrack? my old KYB's have totaly shite themselves and i am looking for another set of front shocks.

cheers.

Unless you have cut and welded the front control arms and/or chassis then what would you need longer shocks for ?

The shocks have more than enough travel to cover the whole possible range of arm movement ( the chassis is the ultimate limit ) and its a MAJOR job to increase the arms travel angles and risks CV joint bind etc etc.

Increasing the travel by lengthening the arms is more practical ( but also not easy ) but that still uses stock shock lengths.

If you want better/new shocks I have used ToughDog which were quite good and Bilsteins which are excellent ( but mine are uprated to suit the longer arms ). Pedders make a shock as well but they are CRAP ( lasted one trip )

Perhaps a little more info on what/why your looking for might clear up things ?

the shocks i have on at the moment have always been just about at the end of their stroke, over rough ground they actualy rattle on the end of the stroke.

a while back there was talk about shocks to use from different cars (eg. i think murcod found vs? commodore shocks suited the rear of his) that had a longer stroke.

so you are saying that stock shocks to suit the feroza will have enough stroke/length even when the front torsion bars are wound up and the rear with lengthened shackles? if so then it makes it easy for me to order some new shocks.

Stock front shocks ( length ) are all that is required - jack the front up by the chassis and undo the bottom shock bolt and you will see the suspension doesn't drop any further.

That's assuming the KYB's were correct in the first place - but no matter stock length for replacement are fine.

It stands to reason - the suspension is limited in travel by the manufacturer by bumpstops designed to cushion overtravel not by a damper limitation.

The rear however is another matter....... stock shocks on a lifted vehicle are seriously too short - not necessarily in travel but in overall length.

The ToughDog rears I had were longer as are the Bilsteins but I did make up some 50mm pin extensions that screwed onto the top of stock shocks to compensate for the lift. AJFeroza has them now.

Yes, the front is limited by bump stops in both directions, the rear is only limited on compression by a bump stop. Extension is limited by the shock length or leaf flex (provided your brake line etc is long enough!)

thanks for the replies guy's, helps heaps.

jack the front up by the chassis and undo the bottom shock bolt and you will see the suspension doesn't drop any further.

never tried that! maybe it isnt the shocks hitting their reach like i thought. cheers.

tufferoza wrote:they actualy rattle on the end of the stroke.

Check your steering mechanism for wear- I had similar noises when on rough tracks and found some play in one of the greaseable joints on the driver's side. (I did the right thing and told the new owner there was some wear in the steering )

A couple of things to check.....

Make sure the shock bushes haven't disintegrated - particularly the top ones and that the bottom through bolt is tight enough to actually squeeze the mount up against the shocks bottom eye, as the bolt can be tight but a loose fit in the eye of the shock.

Both of these result in clunks on suspension movement.

yea that did used to happen, but the shocks are truly munted. thanks.