Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hello everybody,

My brothers 1hdt has collapsed main bearing symptoms

It idles ok, but when you feather the throttle it would start clicking and banging at the top of the engine, im guessing theres a bearing that has collapsed and is allowing pistons to hit valves.

Anyway, where would you start?... start by checking bearings and then take the head off?

Does a collapsed bearing score the crank as well?

Cheers

Motor is probably pretty much totalled. Got a ilux 5L at work that did the same, flogged a conrod bearing, pistion was hitting the head and clacking when running. Pulled it down, crank is scored, bore ovaled and head damaged, needed a total rebuild, so we just bought a reco one

cheers

Yep, i reckon your big end bearings are shot, same symptoms as my mates, a slight ticking in the top end, below is a pic of number 1 to 5 bearings. Number 6 was in 2 bits when it came out.

His rebuild was over 7k with the fuel pump reco. I'd say a crank grind will be required at the least, while it's apart you be better off doing a complete rebuild.

L-R bearing half shells 5 4 3 2 1

will starting pulling the engine out tomorrow... im guessing the harmonic balancer will have to be undone before engine is out?

already got quoted just under 1000 to grind and treat the crankshaft and supply bearings.
and just curious we asked how much to overhaul the whole thing 6500

the sump is coming off 1st to see what sorta crap is in there.

btw, is this problem normal in a standard 1hdt? standard fuel setting, boost etc.

My mates was the 2nd rebuild in 315000km, the first was at 165000 and was ony bearings luckily...

ok, pulled sump off, checked only one bearing and it was good... have now pulled motor out to check the rest of the bearings, and most likely get crankshaft off.

btw, the sump was full of metal shavings, not a very nice moment i tell ya.

rbay has a new yota motor 7500, fastest way is swap the ancilaries....best power is buy a hdfte as mud4b did, swap engine mounts and sump and its in...wire it up and your laughing....or buy a 1hz and get the rods and crank

udm wrote:ok, pulled sump off, checked only one bearing and it was good... have now pulled motor out to check the rest of the bearings, and most likely get crankshaft off.

btw, the sump was full of metal shavings, not a very nice moment i tell ya.

Mate i would be checking all the big ends, like in mums old truck top of number 5 collapsed yet 123 still looked fine , Makes me scared hearing about all these horror 1HDT stories!

1hdfte for the win

with the right bearings etc 1hdt will live a good long life tho

Did Toyota fix the big end problem before the 1hdft come out?
I've heard it was mainly the early (90-94) 1htd's that had this problem and the rumor mill has struck again, and spread the problem to all TD 80's

diby_2000 wrote:Did Toyota fix the big end problem before the 1hdft come out?
I've heard it was mainly the early (90-94) 1htd's that had this problem and the rumor mill has struck again, and spread the problem to all TD 80's

well, this motor has 260k on it, so you would have thought that it is safe to say they are good

A mate just bought a brand new genuine Toyota long motor for his 80, was $6800 plus frieght and came with a 12 month warranty as well.

croozaman wrote:A mate just bought a brand new genuine Toyota long motor for his 80, was $6800 plus frieght and came with a 12 month warranty as well.

yeah, ive heard of them been around 7k, thanks...

anyway, we've got the head off... luckily pistons havent hit the head, but the pistons are all looking funny, as if they have been running too hot or something, crankshaft is good.

so its not looking to bad... fully reconditioned head, seal/gasket kit, bearings, crankshaft grind + conrod grind, rings, block acid bath, and im sure im forgeting something, all up so far $1800... if its is all good, i reckon with 3k he will end up with a fully rebuilt engine, hopefully.

so all we need now is probably a set of pistons

btw, i am gonna replace the bearings in my diesel right now before anything bad happens

diby_2000 wrote:Did Toyota fix the big end problem before the 1hdft come out?
I've heard it was mainly the early (90-94) 1htd's that had this problem and the rumor mill has struck again, and spread the problem to all TD 80's

only the hdt had these problems

the offenders

croozaman wrote:A mate just bought a brand new genuine Toyota long motor for his 80, was $6800 plus frieght and came with a 12 month warranty as well.

99.9% sure a POS HM Gem long motor is like 7500 retail why would you bother genuine

Sic Lux wrote:POS HM Gem long motor

do you mind translating for the toyota people

this is what his engine was looking like this morning


and a few boxes of this sorta stuff




theres about 1000000 nuts and bolts that have to be put back together

Those photos bring back memories I thought my old petrol was complex...how bad was the crank? was there any bearing left in there?
Any broken rings?
Andrew

the crank was good, just a little grind and its new again, im gettng everything done at Dominator engine rebuilders, the guy is providing everything we need, he is really a helpful bloke, is very tecnhical and loves giving advice.

and yes, the bearings were all there, none have snapped, they have just spun or delaminated... no broken rings, but we are rebuilding the whole thing anyway.

anyone know what this is caused by? too much heat? leaking injectors? i believe they are very irregular to be valve marks.

udm wrote:

Sic Lux wrote:POS HM Gem long motor

do you mind translating for the toyota people

Piece Of Sh*t HM gem is a engine reco mob that repco sells alot of there stuff. Heard some bad storys and experience or 2 of my own

reliable motors these 1hdt's !

Something has gone through there...looks ike a mates hdt piston when he dropped a valve seat...check your head hasnt lost a seat....story goes like this....oh, was i supposed to check and periodically adjust valve clearances!!!
Your brother is very lucky, a close and hone of all your rods a head job and maybe a new piston on that pot if needed, and your right to go again. Did you crack test the crank?

Make sure all the vanes are on the turbo

Red04VXE wrote:Make sure all the vanes are on the turbo

the turbo is good, but now that you mention it, the previous owner had just rebuilt the turbo maybe he had lost a vane or 2

dow50r wrote:and maybe a new piston on that pot if needed, and your right to go again. Did you crack test the crank?

he might change all pistons...

they are probably going to work on the parts next week, so no news on the crank.

anyone know what this is caused by? too much heat? leaking injectors? i believe they are very irregular to be valve marks.


I have just changed The big end in mine, they had be done before and were not to bad, i did them anyway for the cost and a little bit of time it took, it was good to have the peice of mind.
Aparently they did not have this problem over in japan with these motors when they were being used, some hdt motors expired very early in there lives and i have spoken to a lot of old school toyota fanatics that have all said basically the same thing, the big end wear is fuel based. The problems that we have here is the differnet quality of deisel we use ???
The conditions are also different here, and jap motors dont do big km before there moved on.

im thinking about doing my bearings and probably change rings aswell, will see.

There is a triple coated bearing available for the 1HDT but it is a good thing to change them every 100ks to be safe. It is not a big job, about 3 hrs max. Using a good oil and change every 10ks helps. Look at fitting a mechanicl oil pressure gauge to as the statndard ones do not tell much.

We have started with the rebuild, we have decided to fully rebuild it, and we are having a ball putting this thing back together
Also we have ended up saving over 3500 by doing it ourselves


1 day has got us this far, got the bottom end finished, and pistons fitted.




I guess 1 more day and the head, gears, etc, will be on.