Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sorry, been here, read that, replies to that..... but anyway.

I have a dual battery system, which was in when I bought the car. The deep cycle is rooted. It doesnt run the fridge properly when the car is off.

1) What battery would be recommended to replace this with. Been advised to use an Overlander I think it was.

2) Thinking of moving the battery to the rear. The GQ is LWB, and thinking of removeable so I can take it out and leave it and the fridge at camp. Then just hook it up when I need to. Any advice on this?

I dont really know much about the system. Just thought I would ask and get some advice before going to auto eleccy.

Cheers

Storing and using a large wet cell inside a closed compartment, like a cab is similar to storing petrol inside a closed cab. The vapours (flammable) released during charging and the possible spillage of acid in the event of an acco makes it unwise and possibly illegal. I wouldn't risk it...

Unless you are spending money to have the alternator upgraded to provide more amps during the charging cycle, I wouldn't spend a lot of money on a deep cycle as it won't last. I would buy a quality battery made in Malaysia, something that carries an ISO rego label, some of the larger name brand batteries are overpriced and don't last that much longer (maybe 6 months tops.)

im advising against the option of moving the battery to the back, if its in the engine bay now leave it there.. long length runs to the back will require fat cable and will always be out performed by a system where both batteries are nice and close..

what capacity would u be after?? normal 75 amp?? or the slightly larger capacity 115 or 125's?? 1st option your everyday besco/exide ect. deep cycle, 75 amp hour.. about 130 bucks...

these are the ones we use, besco.. get about 36 hours with the freezer at -10
have gone though 3 in 4 years tho. cycling them every weekend, and on trips every day for 6 weeks straight... not complaining about them..
havnt personally tried the trojans, but a mate had a 115 amp hour trojan and reconed it was the ducks nuts... think they are up around 200ish bucks..

forgot to add.. one idea if you want to leave the fridge back at camp.. maybe a waeco thumper or whatever.. those 50 amp power packs..
or make yr own... oddesy or optima wet cel deep cycle.. battery box.. prob do it all for $400 and have 100 amps

I bought a Trojan 115 for the Mav, unfortunately was not happy with it's longevity, has a lot to do with previously mentioned amp supply from the TD42 alt. Its still in service, but I have to couple it with a SLA pack of my own design (use this pack for our camera lights) when we go away on shoots.

Heath what sort of system have you got fitted to control the charging of the second battery?

Is it just a solenoid or a proper dual battery controller?

Area54 wrote:Storing and using a large wet cell inside a closed compartment, like a cab is similar to storing petrol inside a closed cab. The vapours (flammable) released during charging and the possible spillage of acid in the event of an acco makes it unwise and possibly illegal. I wouldn't risk it...

Good point.... didnt think of that. Thanks, i will scrap that idea.

murcod wrote:Heath what sort of system have you got fitted to control the charging of the second battery?

Is it just a solenoid or a proper dual battery controller?

Its a proper controller. No name on the thing so couldnt tell you a brand, if any. Knowing the complete lack of maintenance the previous owner supplied, I would say it is a cheap system. But it was previous ex-gov, so maybe it was installed prior to him owning it. I dont know.

I can put a charge light over the terminals, and with the engine off, the light only just comes on. With the engine running, full power in the light.... You notice this with the fridge also.

Okay, so its off to the eleccy I go... eventually... maybe before easter weekend - Rover Park.

Heath you can get sealed gel cell deep cycle batteries for internal use. A relation has just bought a 100 AH one for the back of his Patrol- I think he said it was around $300. I'm making up the battery controller for it (the Dick Smith kit one like I run in my Feroza) which is perfectly suited to longer cable runs due to it requiring some resisitance in the aux battery leads.

So don't give up on your idea .

Possibly put a pic of the controller on here and someone may be able to identify it?