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what lift for 35's?
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 5:50 pm
by get it up there
Hey all.. Just wondering if my suspension plan will allow me to fit 35's to my 91 sierra?? I'm going to be running RUF, and lux springs in the rear.. These springs are all pretty much flat (no lift). I'm going to be using lux diffs (so obviously, SOA) I'm also going to continue using my drop shackles, which is a 4" lift (2" at the wheel). Do you all think this will be enough to safely run 35's without scrubbing?? Thanks heaps!!
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 6:49 pm
by alien
i'd say you'd have to move the front diff forward and the rear backward to gain some stability, this though would cause scrubbing behind the headlight buckets when flexing (mine's SPOA on flat springs and 31's and scrubs) - youll find that cos your leaves are flat you get just as much up travel as you do down... the only way to stop this would be either "modifying" your guards or bumpstop spacing.
I personally plan to modify the headlight buckets on mine - its a tougher job but im not sacrificing flex =)
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 6:53 pm
by NIK
I run zuk rears all round on toys with 35s and lowered bumpstops. Ive lifted the front flares up to the front indicator and cut out the back of the headlight bucket and it still scrubs.
Im going to lower the bumpstops a little more I have maybe 3" uptravel with the lowered stock bumpstops so they are pretty crappy I,ll change them for somthing more substantial.
I have no other rubbing issues besides behind the headlight.
Nik
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 7:46 pm
by Brendan-s
Just do a 14in body lift.
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 8:17 pm
by joeblow
do what u like...tyre size is illegal anyway.maybe 10 inch shackles!
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:19 pm
by get it up there
[quote="alien"]i'd say you'd have to move the front diff forward and the rear backward to gain some stabilityquote] Does the RUF move the front diff forward?? I'm going to get some new perches from low range off road, and use them on the rear, at the same time moving the diff back 1". Thanks everyone else for replying.. Some really interesting stuff! seems like the headlight bucket will be a pain. Sounds like the good old grinder will be coming out!
Posted: Wed May 07, 2008 9:20 pm
by sierrajim
Aside from the incredibly helpful, insightful and mature responses.
There are a number of ways you can run 35's SPOA with extended whacky shackles with bumpstops will allow you to run 35's with some trimming. I ran 36's SPUA with a body lift and some minor removal of useless body work.
As Joe pointed out, your 35's won't be legal, your car WILL stand out, so you'd be wise to make sure all of the other modifications you do to your vehicle (diffs, springs etc) are engineered to save you being pulled off the road for good.
Play with your shackle angle in relation to your bump stops to allow maximum droop as you're compression will be limited by your body work.
Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 6:29 pm
by get it up there
sierrajim wrote:
you'd be wise to make sure all of the other modifications you do to your vehicle (diffs, springs etc) are engineered to save you being pulled off the road for good.
I called those nice fellas at the transport today.. Overall, including your tire height, your vehicle is to be no more than 150mm from standard!! oops!! And the wheel track cant be anymore than 50 total than standard. Grr!!
Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 7:36 pm
by joeblow
you don't need 35's on a zook.
Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:21 pm
by get it up there
joeblow wrote:you don't need 35's on a zook.
maybe so.. but hey, some of these things just have to be done!!
Posted: Thu May 08, 2008 8:26 pm
by joeblow
mmm...think al-geada used that excuse too....
f
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:03 am
by Pyrotech
joeblow wrote:you don't need 35's on a zook.
Maybe YOU dont need 35s on a zook, but i know a lot of people that do have them, i for one will be running 35s, hopfully 37s when its finished.
people that come into someones thread and post useless crap,
obviously 'Get it up there' has posted his question cos he needs help, not dickheads telling him that he doesnt need 35s on a zook..
rant over...
but as for fitting 35s, u will need to do some guard chopping, and some longer shackles, as well as playing around with your bump stops..
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:43 am
by WRXZook
You don't have to do too much to run 35s on a Zook.
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 5:32 am
by NIK
So thats what happened to the blue coily its still around?
Have pics of it on the ramp at bathurst jamboree years ago.
Nik
Re: f
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 9:40 am
by joeblow
PYROTECH WROTE-Maybe YOU dont need 35s on a zook, but i know a lot of people that do have them, i for one will be running 35s, hopfully 37s when its finished.
people that come into someones thread and post useless crap,
obviously 'Get it up there' has posted his question cos he needs help, not dickheads telling him that he doesnt need 35s on a zook..
rant over...
if its a comp truck than run whatever size you like, but by contacting the roads authorities he is obviously wanting to drive it on the road. then we have other people complaing about being done for oversize tryes by the cops. and people wonder why it gets so hard to engineer larger tyres. if you want to attract attention than thats the best way to go about it. still can have lots of fun with 31's or 33's, after all it is a zook pyrotech ya knob jockey.
Re: f
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 10:45 am
by Pyrotech
joeblow wrote: still can have lots of fun with 31's or 33's, after all it is a zook pyrotech ya knob jockey.
yes this is tru, but i know of a few ppl that have had sierras on 37s with a full RTA inspection, and passed with flying colour.
one such case had the RTA inspector come to his house, and went through the full check list and still past this sierra.
yes it draws attention to your car on road, but if u keep your truck looking neat and tidy, the cops dont give it a second glance, i have been told that by a cop on more then one occasion. if u keep your car covered in mud, u will get more negative attention then you will if its tidy.
and what would it matter id he wanted to fit 35s on a patrol or cruiser? would it be a differnt story?, just cos its a zook, doesnt mean jack!
Re: f
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:37 pm
by v840
Pyrotech wrote:joeblow wrote: pyrotech ya knob jockey.
yes this is tru
HeeHeeHee.
For a hardcore trail vehicle I dont think 35s are too outrageous. Having said that I'll ony initially be running 33s but will definitely be open to stepping up if they are too small.
Its all about personal preference. You do have to accept the consequences of those preferences though.
Engineering is mandatory for 31s+ IMO.
Re: f
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 12:50 pm
by Pyrotech
v840 wrote:Pyrotech wrote:joeblow wrote: pyrotech ya knob jockey.
yes this is tru
HeeHeeHee.
FARK YOU
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 2:02 pm
by Dee
If i was going to go 35's I'd want more wheelbase. Ie around 88-90". Can be done with leaves, but by the time you do a chassis ext, diff swap with better gearing, body work & custom tank etc to fit tyres & wheelbase, do gearing etc, I'd be seriously looking at a coil-conversion while I was there...
35's, with a stockish wheelbase, & stock width diffs with lift & gearing to fit would be just too scary on angles for me...
Posted: Fri May 09, 2008 5:27 pm
by MART
You won't get a 90 inch wheelbase on a shorty zuk with leaf springs , you will need coils , Chjeers Paul.
Re: f
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 6:44 pm
by get it up there
Pyrotech wrote:joeblow wrote:you don't need 35's on a zook.
Maybe YOU dont need 35s on a zook, but i know a lot of people that do have them, i for one will be running 35s, hopfully 37s when its finished.
people that come into someones thread and post useless crap,
obviously 'Get it up there' has posted his question cos he needs help, not dickheads telling him that he doesnt need 35s on a zook..
rant over..
Thanks mate.. i couldnt agree more!!! It seems to happen alot in this zook section.. i'm suprised we still bother to ask certain qtn's. more times than not, you get smart arse remarks, and everything but the answer. Like i've said b4.. if your not happy with the qtn.. dont bother answering it!! Thanks everyone for your "positive" feedback.. it really does HELP.
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 6:59 pm
by joeblow
just remember, have an accident or hurt someone with illegal tyres and tac will not cover you. you will be liable for all costs and or charges. people usually don't take this into account when building a truck...i take it it will be driven on the road?
35s on a zook
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:22 pm
by norm84
i for one have 35s on my beast, it has 2inch bl, 2insh sus, SPOA on lux diffs, no chopping and no rubbing what so ever. also wheel bas is still the same. now i have modified flairs i have heaps more clearencs.. and looking at runing 37s and i dont get hasseld by and police...
i also got a mate running 35s same set up but with standard diffs.
but thats here in NSW.. i guess we have is prity lucky here
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:48 pm
by joeblow
chopping, rubbing, wheel base is irrelevent. vic and nsw pretty much share the same laws and or follow the relevent d.o.t.a.r.s regulations.
you just havn't been done by a cluey enough copper yet.
Re: 35s on a zook
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:56 pm
by get it up there
norm84 wrote: also wheel bas is still the same. now i have modified flairs i have heaps more clearencs..
Sweet.. that all sounds pretty good!! You said you havent done anything with your wheelbase (moving diffs forwards etc), do you think it is a problem with your zook?? or would you recomend doing it?? How close are your tires coming to your headlight buckets when fully compressed?? Thanks heaps mate..
35'z
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 7:58 pm
by norm84
oh i forgot to mention, THEY CANT DO SHIT!!!!
ITS ALL LEAGAL AND ENGINEERD..
the only thing they can get me for is my blow off valve. which wont be on there when i get my car back on the road
Posted: Sat May 10, 2008 11:54 pm
by MART
Hey norm 84 , looking at a side photo shot off your car and you say your tyres don't rub when steering left and right at full travel , might just be the photo but it looks like they would rub , do you have any shots flexed up , I had to move my diffs and chop my guards to fit mine , just curious , people need the right info when they start to make mods and just about everyone reconds you need to chop stuff , Cheers Paul.
Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:50 am
by Gwagensteve
Get it up there, you're sort of asking the wrong question.
The suspension is pretty much irrelevant. It's all about guard work and bumpstop spacing.
We have a car in the build here in Vic with Q78's and no suspension or body lift. At all. It's exactly 4.5" taller than a stock sierra.
The key is spacing the bumpstops to keep the tyre out of the headlight, and working the firewall to keep the tyre out of that.
With full RUF, SPUA and 2" bumpstop spacers, 35's can be run, but there's lots of bodywork in the job. Personally, I like to do the bodywork and bumpstop spacing to run the tyre, then use spring and shackle to get the travel and ride I want. The end result is a low, stable, predictable car that is easy to engineer (except the tyres) and nice to drive.
There's some other setup questions you need to ask though.
A sierra with about 32's and built sierra diffs will be more capable than a sierra on 35's with hilux diffs because it will be lighter and have more clearance.
Your car will be stupidly tall and unstable. - 5" for SPOA + 2" of whacky shackle + 4.5" of tyre - that's 11.5" of lift.
Drop shackles, spoa and a light car with heavy diffs will suck.
If you want an 11.5" lifted sierra for malling go ahead. If you want a capable car for driving tracks, take some major height out of it.
Steve.
Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:05 am
by get it up there
hmmm.. so many different answers! Seems like alot of people run something similar to what i want to be doing.. and dont have any "huge" dramas.. apart from rubbing?? at the end of the day.. zooks are always going to be pretty unstable, just cause their a SWB..
Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 10:24 am
by norm84
MART wrote:Hey norm 84 , looking at a side photo shot off your car and you say your tyres don't rub when steering left and right at full travel , might just be the photo but it looks like they would rub , do you have any shots flexed up , I had to move my diffs and chop my guards to fit mine , just curious , people need the right info when they start to make mods and just about everyone reconds you need to chop stuff , Cheers Paul.
how much did you move your diff and where did you chop.
also how much is yours lifed
i think the only thing that hit was the tip of the corner of the extended flares.. when my new flares get made up and bolted on (should be this week) i will post pics..