Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I've nearly finished my rear drawers for my cruiser. Wanted something lightweight that looked neat and kept everything secure.

Started with a lightweight frame (Capral Alum Cubelock)



Then came the full ext drawer runners (90kg capacity per pair)



Had to get these special mounting brackets to make it neat and strong,

Mounted it to the factory bolts so no extra holes made to the vehicle:


Decided to go with 12mm MDF which will be carpeted and painted/sealed on the outsides later, but I'll try to avoid putting in any wet stuff. So far the locks are only temporarily mounted.


Got some marine carpet which is easy to glue and mould around the timber. The top is made from 12mm ply (trying to save some more weight were the structure is sufficient.)


Added some side pieces which I have yet to carpet, just need to make some drawer fronts (these locks take up quite some depth).



This is what I'm up to so far. I've made the drawers 700mm deep as I need some room for my sub-box and I'll probably install my compressor next to that and make a cover. So far it's cost around $250-$300.

where does 1 get this "cube lock" from? looks great

You can get the same stuff from Bunnings but you will pay more for it. Capral charge about $30 for 6.5mtrs and the adapters are about $1.40 each.

At short lengths its quite strong, and i also put some metal screws in where they join to stop them slipping out.

Just as a guide,how many lengths did you use of the cube lock to build this

revin wrote:Just as a guide,how many lengths did you use of the cube lock to build this

Good question. Quick guess, he's got a little bit left of his second length?

-Scott- wrote:

revin wrote:Just as a guide,how many lengths did you use of the cube lock to build this

Good question. Quick guess, he's got a little bit left of his second length?

Thats a very good guess. I gave them a cutting list, so I was lazy. I ended up with 2 extra pieces but they are about 500mm long each so I don't know how they went about using the two lengths. If anyone wants the cutting list I'm happy to post it. I wanted it to fit between the 80 series wheel arches and only 700mm deep, but that can always be adjusted. You just take out 25mm for each joiner to get your cutting sizes.

On a side note, Bunnings also have this stuff in a black satin finish (at extra $$$) in case anyone is interested.

Where did you get your draw runners from and how much?
I am going through the same process at the moment.
You have done a great job so far, hope mine turn out as good.

Coogs wrote:Where did you get your draw runners from and how much?
I am going through the same process at the moment.
You have done a great job so far, hope mine turn out as good.

It really isn't difficult at all to make it look neat. Just take your time and looks for the right components.

Ebay has some good deals, but I got the runners and slam locks from Concept Latch Lock & Hinge in Tullamarine,Vic. (03) 9335 1822. I got the stuff at trade through work, they are light duty runners (capable of 90kg a pair) and worth about $30 a pair. This was because I wanted the 700mm length runners. They have some more serious runners capable of much higher kg's, even with locking levers to keep them fully open or closed (good for fridges!)

Another company I found on the net was UES. I was googling for Slam locks when I found them.

Great job dude. Looks really good.

Toy80Diesel wrote:I've nearly finished my rear drawers for my cruiser. Wanted something lightweight that looked neat and kept everything secure.

Started with a lightweight frame (Capral Alum Cubelock)



Then came the full ext drawer runners (90kg capacity per pair)



Had to get these special mounting brackets to make it neat and strong,

Mounted it to the factory bolts so no extra holes made to the vehicle:


Decided to go with 12mm MDF which will be carpeted and painted/sealed on the outsides later, but I'll try to avoid putting in any wet stuff. So far the locks are only temporarily mounted.


Got some marine carpet which is easy to glue and mould around the timber. The top is made from 12mm ply (trying to save some more weight were the structure is sufficient.)


Added some side pieces which I have yet to carpet, just need to make some drawer fronts (these locks take up quite some depth).



This is what I'm up to so far. I've made the drawers 700mm deep as I need some room for my sub-box and I'll probably install my compressor next to that and make a cover. So far it's cost around $250-$300.

boy got skill .. well done mate looks very 'neat'

how much all up for the bits n pieces?

roverrat wrote:boy got skill .. well done mate looks very 'neat'

how much all up for the bits n pieces?

v840 wrote: Great job dude. Looks really good.

Thanks for the kind words.

So far about $30 per pair of runners, alum frame was about $80. Those brackets that hold the runners are quite expensive ($42 a set of 4 and I needed two sets) but they really provide the strength and look professional so I wasn't gonna take that short cut. The slam locks can be bought on ebay for $25 a pair but I missed the auction, so I paid about double. They also are a matching code so the keys match! The marine carpet was $30 a metre, I bought two metres and its two metres wide. The tie down points cost me $3 each at bunnings as they were clearing them out. Can't give you a price on the timber as I am lucky enough to get it through work. And finally the pictures provided from retailer's products via brochures are priceless!

One thing I didn't put into the design that I saw on the net, was a flap that lifts up giving access to the drawer contents without opening the drawer or tailgate of the car. Hopefully I wont regret it. I was a bit worried about it caving into the drawer if it wasn't strong enough, but with a bit more thought and careful placement, it could work.

far cry from the 2K black widows tamini etc charge you could knock a few up an sell em for around 1200 and make a killing

roverrat wrote:far cry from the 2K black widows tamini etc charge you could knock a few up an sell em for around 1200 and make a killing

There are people selling some cheaper alternatives on Ebay if you didn't want the follow the crowd and buy one of the big names. But I'd much rather share the idea's with people on the forum so they can save themselves some money as well. From time to time I've asked questions on here that have saved me some money, so its good to keep the ball rolling, so to speak.

Also, you wouldn't need to make it exactly as I did. For example, you could easily make two drawers on one side and leave the other side for a fridge.

Update, I've added more carpet trims, just have the drawers to complete.



Also, after having a good look at the rear of a 100 series, I've decided to add a little fold down panel that stops things falling into the hinging section of the tailgate. The 100 also has a spring loaded tailgate thats easier to lift, I like that idea. Might try incorporating something in there, maybe one of those spring gate closers??

Has anyone else done this to theirs?

looks bloody awsome i will b buildin mine well start it next week!!! nice job looks tops!!!

very tidy. you should start selling them

looks great are the corner adapters metal or plastic

narns1mav wrote:looks great are the corner adapters metal or plastic

Plastic, not completely solid but they are up to the task. I've put a screw in each corner so the alum won't pull away from the connector.

Getting closer to the end now.... Here's how it looks with the drawer fronts on.

thats a far cry from the pos we had in the back of our mav. awsome work!

dam my diy draws look shit house compared to these... Meh i spose atleast i got draws mine hold 150kgs fully extended











not that im ever going to try that tho they will break..

well just brought all the steel for my draws and mine system is 1100 buy 1000 ans 230 hi ans ih only cozt me 76.80 for the steel and joiners!!!

They are the nicest DIY drawers I've ever seen - I'm creaming my jeans over here. Problem is, I just KNOW that even if I bought all the same gear and followed yours as a guide, they'd still end up looking Fugly-fabricated.

Tom0 wrote:They are the nicest DIY drawers I've ever seen - I'm creaming my jeans over here. Problem is, I just KNOW that even if I bought all the same gear and followed yours as a guide, they'd still end up looking Fugly-fabricated.

If you get the right carpet that is flexible, use contact glue and a staple gun its not too hard to get it looking right. The marine carpet I bought is easy to cut yet it doesn't tear easily. It flex's around the timber really easily, and has some stretch to it. The staples are all hidden underneath the top, and behind the drawer faces, which then bolt to the drawer itself.

Toy80Diesel wrote:

Tom0 wrote:They are the nicest DIY drawers I've ever seen - I'm creaming my jeans over here. Problem is, I just KNOW that even if I bought all the same gear and followed yours as a guide, they'd still end up looking Fugly-fabricated.

If you get the right carpet that is flexible, use contact glue and a staple gun its not too hard to get it looking right. The marine carpet I bought is easy to cut yet it doesn't tear easily. It flex's around the timber really easily, and has some stretch to it. The staples are all hidden underneath the top, and behind the drawer faces, which then bolt to the drawer itself.

I hate people with talent ... I'm with Tomo .. fuglyfab incorporated .. maybe you can bang me up a set for my gu and freight em for me cuz I reckon if I built em myself they would look NOTHING like yours

Tom0 wrote:http://www.fuglyfab.com

hahahhaa love those wheel arch flairs .. necessity is the mother of invention

yeah version one was hyper-crap, the current version less dodgy, much stronger.

But making drawers like these - beyond my skillset.

Tom0 wrote:yeah version one was hyper-crap, the current version less dodgy, much stronger.

But making drawers like these - beyond my skillset.

mate at least NO ONE can tell ya you didn't have a crack or that you copied someone else ...