Outer Limits 4x4 Board

To the spottie gurus out there.

I have just converted to lighforce on the bullbar. I now wish to mount 4 spare IPF's to my roof rack of my GQ TD42 Wagon.

What do I have to do in regards to wiring loom and any other nasties that my surface. Where is the best way to run the wiring? I have already upgraded to 120 amp alternator and I also run dual battery system.

Thanks

Craig

old thread I know but Im really keen to know how its done

Hi Playn and stinkfinger, just some suggestions on roof lights based on 30 years of roof light use.

If your planning on fitting 4 spot lights ( pencil beams ) on your roof, your wasting your time and money because they give you little advantage over spotties mounted on your bumper or bull bar.

The best lights to fit on the roof are 4 spreads, the 2 centre lights facing forward and the two side lights set as far to each side as practical.

When you aline the centre lights, set them so their light paten starts just about where low beam ends and then set each side light so it continues the paten to the side but at the same range as the centre lights.

With the roof lights set up this way you get potholes and road variations lit up before you actually see them giving more safety and on curved roads or off road, they literally allow to see around corners.

I’ve found that in roo country, the side lights also tend to keep roos startled just that little bit longer allow you to get passed them before they take off.

I have mine set up so I can fit or remove them in a couple of minutes and although tis was done so as not to draw attention to them during the day, it also helps to reduce fuel consumption.

Even with my V8, I find that travelling at around the speed limits ( up to 110 ) having the lights mounted can increase my fuel consumption by around 10%.

I learnt the hard way as to where to mount them. I had a Toyota Hilux Dual Cab and was about to do a trip up into the NSW Northwest and roos are always a problem so I spent all day fitting and wiring the lights.

Late that same afternoon I set off and by the time I got to the Putty, it was dark so on went the headlights and then high beam.

Nearly ran off the road, all I could see was a bright red bonnet.

I pulled up at some small town, under a street light and as the roof rack was a gutter mount type, I proceeded to move the lights back along the roof until the light from the roof lights just passed over the bull bar.

Jumped in and off I go, flicked on high beam and the cab interior went white, nearly ran off the road AGAIN.

I had to move the roof lights so far back that they now lit up both side mirrors.

I just turn the mirrors out of the way and away I went, at a slower speed while I tested the lights again.

I’ve fitted so many roof lights now that I have a system for making sure they don’t reflect back anyway.

I start by placing towels on the front edge of the roof and bonnet, than I rest a length of 25mm square aluminium tube over the edge of the bonnet and up over the front edge of the roof.

I then measure the height of the driving lights and up on the roof I measure back along the bottom edge of the aluminium tube till I have the same amount of clearance.

I do the same thing to the side mirrors.

I’ve found I can easily fit 4 Hella 181s and leave enough room between each light to allow adjusting and not come anywhere near lighting up the mirrors.

You have to decide on the globe size before you can select the correct size cable and remember, the roof lights will need a long cable run so you need thick cable or you are going to cause your lights to be dull.

As to how you get the cable to the roof, that’s your biggest problem, but try to keep the run as direct as possible from the cranking battery, to the fuse holders, relays and then to the lights.

Took a second for me to picture your method in my head, its a very clever idea to set them up correctly, and simple to put into practice also.

I'll be remembering this for when I get around to getting roof lights myself.

awsome reply mate cheers,my main concern is the wiring up to the roof do you run the cable up the drip rail? and then to a clip?

stinkfinger wrote:awsome reply mate cheers,my main concern is the wiring up to the roof do you run the cable up the drip rail? and then to a clip?

Personally I wouldn't run up the weather strip. I'd drill a hole and fit a rubber grommet next to one of the roof rack legs and run through that and across the roof rack. And I'd fit an anderson plug or similar to make removal of the lights that bit easier. But that is just my personal preferencem someone may have different or better ideas.

Id rather run it up the weather strip and held in place with a small dob of silicon and anderson clip than drill a hole in my roof, just seems like thats asking for trouble with rust

Thanks for the reply drivesafe.

Here is my story as I trialled and errored before your reply.

I fitted mine before xmas for roadtrip south I had two pencil and two spread and like you said the spreads light up the immediate road. The two pencils added extra depth to the lightforce on the bullbar.

The first attempt was dismal. I grabbed 2 relay kits from supercheap and they were shit. The first time I turned them on they were dull and after 20 seconds smoke and burning rubber was the result as they cannot handle the amps required.

I subsequently went heavy duty. 6mm wire all round and every joint soldered. Anderson plug on the roof for ease of disconnection as well as a very good contact. each pair of lights had its own relay which was a 70amp and prior to this from the battery were heavy duty fuses. I cannot remember what they are called but i think they were like 7o amp and are steel with a threaded post at each end for attachment of wire and are sealed. i used something like 8mm from the battery to each fuze and from the fuze to the relay. from there it was 6mm. I ran a 6mm earth direct back to the battery. The earth was connected to the aluminium plate i mounted each spotty on. Each spotty had its earth wire connected to the aluminium plate.

How I mounted to roof? well I grabbed a thurl roof bar and manufactured a 8mm right angle piece of alluminium and drilled the required holes for each light and for attachment to the thurl gutter mount bar.

The gutter mount bar sits just forward of my Rhino rack and all that is required is to undo the anderson plug and earth wire and undo bar and it's off. I ran the wire along the antenae mounts which was in a perfect position for the GQ Patrol.

My patrol is dark red so the bonnet was lit up a little but was not a worry. If it was white I would say it would possibly be a problem. My chrome UHF atnennae did annoy me but a spray with black paint dulled it considerably.

Results a pretty good on the road except streets signs and reflective bits and pieces glare back at me. It lights up the bush like day but i am now forever worried about low branches.

I would say it contributed to my economy being shit for the trip but it was hard to say as the 35's and the tonne of gear in the camper trailer would of had more of an effect.

Thats the story and I hope it helps others.

the wiring for my roof lights on my old gq i ran from battery into firewall bung up the a pillar & out the hole that the radio aerial is i just dremeled enough of the aerial bracket away to allow the wire (6mm or 8mm i cant remember)to fit thru covered with that black wire loom stuff & cable tied to aerial till it reached the roof you couldnt even notice it very neat & tidy

My set up is a rough as they come but it works for me and as I always remove the lights by day when on the open road, all I have done is run the cables, in a loom, up under the back edge of the bonnet, up the side of the windscreen and the loom plugs into the roof lights via an 8 way plug and socket. ( no pics of the loom )

None of this drilling holes in the roof caper, the loom is simply held in place with velcro strips.









This will give you an idea of how effective these lights are.

If you can be arsed go to ARB and by 2 MD02 wiring kits, they can handle the high current flow, its neat and set up all you have to do is run it to where yu need it and insulate it.

any one else got any more pics of there set ups?

I have a very similiar set up to drive safe including the 181's with about the same alignment.

I drive a series 1 disco and run the wire up the crease between the snorkel and windscreen.

The lights are fitted to the first rung on the factory roof rack rail.

good quality 55watt globes is all you need in a roof light set up in this way.

I have a GQ and am looking at putting 4x 100W hella's on the roof. Would a 6mm cable be enough. I was told it is good for 40amps. Using that and a 50amp anderson plut and a 50 amp relay. Should i use bigger cable to reduce voltage drop?

Hi Dominator, because of the long run, the current rate of the cable is not as relevant as the voltage drop that will occur on long runs.

To power 100w globes, you need 6mm auto cable for EACH light otherwise they will just be yellow and dull.

You would be better off with high tech 55w globes, as this would reduce the current load and as such, the voltage drop and allow 4mm auto cable to be used.

Drivesafe
Which plug and socket did you use?

Hi Rapid80, as posted, mine is pretty rough but as I remove it when not in use, no one can see how rough it is.

I use an 8 way plug and socket and have each light wired separately from the two relays to the driving lights.