Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey all

I am new to the thread so I must say thanks for all the helpful hints and ideas. I have a 91 F300 DX. I have 30 x 9.5 inch Maxxis Muddies. The rear leafs are reset and fronts are wound up.
I read all the threads on the suspension mods, however can’t find front shocks. I can get some from Pedders that will give abut 70 mm extra extension but they have to re-bush them.
Today I changed the rears some KYB VS wagon ones. Straight away I could see how much travel I was loosing in the rear. (About 60mm).
This weekend a winch is going on the front of the thing, next weekend UHF and dual battery set-up.
Has anyone upgraded their alternator? I need a 650cca battery for the winch to work well and I am thinking of getting a bigger alternator.
Anyway when I got under there today I saw a massive oil leak from the crank seal. It must have happened in the last 3000kms (since last service). Anyone else had this happen?

Thanks for all your advice.

Welcome Box (Haha, can think of a nick for ya already ).

Front shocks really won't make ANY difference to front end travel, but a decent shock will improve your ride.

There are a couple of threads about alternators, have a look in the FAQ or do a search and you should find them.

What part of Melbourne are you in?

Generally the HDE donk is pretty good as far as oil leaks go, so not sure what your problem might be there.

Thanks Champ. I thought that when I remove the sway bar I might actually get a bit not more travel. If the fronts don't need to be longer I will just get standard KYB's for the front.
I live in the SE suburbs. Yourself?

So what do you think the nick name should be?

You can get a little more down-travel by shaving your bumpstops, and stock shocks will handle that.

I'm in the inner SE.

As for ya nick... Box =

Welcome Box. Whats the derivation of the username ?

Pedders are crap - didn't last me one trip. ToughDogs are good and long lasting, Bilsteins are excellent but expensive. Shock length will not limit front travel so stock length are all that is required.

As AJ says shaving you droop bum stop get a little more travel and removing the swaybar ( illegal ) will get more articulation so DO IT !

Alternators - HC Applauses have 80A alternators fitted ( not all but some ) that can be fitted. You have to swap pulleys ( Applause are pollyvee - Feroza is single V ). Get the plug as well its different to the Roza so you either make up a small adapther ( which is what I did ) or solder on the different plug.

I get some applausse alternator, it is 75A, not 80, here in europe.
Because of 2" body liftkit i put some electrical vent, and didn't change pulleys.

nebivedu wrote:Because of 2" body liftkit i put some electrical vent, and didn't change pulleys.

Not quite certain what your saying here.

A F300 has different pulleys to a F310 so if its an Australian F300 it will have a single vee for the alternator and waterpump.

Had the alternator on the tester at work and it put out 80.4 Amps cold. 75 might be its hot current rating ?

With 2" body lift on feroza, vent did not do his job any more, so i replaced it with electrical vent. Then I put applausse (105KM) machine in feroza, and i did not change pulleys.

alternator has signature that its output is only 75 Amps. I newer tested it, so it is posible that the output is 80 Amps.


But i did weight test on my feroza, and has 1480kg with winch, rollbar, bullbar, etc.. 300 kg more than stock.

Thanks I think I understand now. I think you are meaning the radiator and mechanical fan being replaced with an electric one.

Yes this is a problem, I have a 406mm electric fan on mine and a electric winch so more electrical output was useful. I also wanted to remove the single V belt driving the water pump and alternator as I had 2 failures in a short time.

Have a 150A Bosch Alternator for the next engine, but it doesn't fit without a lot of modification so that will be a lot later.

Yes, radiator is still stock, only fan was replaced with electrical one.

Thanks for the advice. I just got inside from the garage. I pulled the bull bar off to have a look how I am going to mount the winch.
Pulled the timing belt off to have a look at these oil leaks, it’s not the crank seal leaking at all. It’s the cam seal. It leaked so much oil there was a puddle on top of the bottom timing case.
So tomorrow night the cam seal and rocker cover gasket will get done and hopefully an alternator if I can get one. I might try and get the one of a V8 commodore.

Saturday will be some fun in the mud.


PS the nickname comes from everyone calling the Feroza Sh#$!box and now it has kind of stuck. I don’t really care it doesn’t cost me $200 bucks in fuel every weekend and fit’s in places big 4x4 can’t even imagine going.

Many toyota alternators are bolt on replacement for the 45A alternator of the Feroza. A friend just replaced his Feroza's alternator with that of the early '90s corrola. It was rated at 75A . No modifications were done.

Box Feroza wrote:Thanks for the advice. I just got inside from the garage. I pulled the bull bar off to have a look how I am going to mount the winch.
Pulled the timing belt off to have a look at these oil leaks, it’s not the crank seal leaking at all. It’s the cam seal. It leaked so much oil there was a puddle on top of the bottom timing case.
So tomorrow night the cam seal and rocker cover gasket will get done and hopefully an alternator if I can get one. I might try and get the one of a V8 commodore.

Saturday will be some fun in the mud.


.

Mounting a winch in a fez is fun not a lot to mount it to, I had to do a lot of frabiacating to get mine fitted, I ended up building a cradle that mounts to the chasiss rails at the bottom (using the tow hook mounts and new custom made bumper brackets for the top.

Hey interesting about the oil leak my fez started doing the same thing about 3 months ago .. thought it was the crank seal too ... might drop the rocker cover off and see if its the cam seal ... let me know how easy they are to do please
cheers
meece

I got the Feroza stripped and after taking the timing case and belt off, I found that it was not the crank seal leaking but the cam seal. It was pissing out! The belt had absorbed so much oil it actually started to go soft.

To do the cam seal is not to hard.
You take the belt off (Cam Belt)
take the cam wheel off.
Pry the old seal out with a something (don’t damage any surface around the seal).
Fit the new seal and use the old one on top to tap it in to place.
I also did the rocker cover gasket because it started sweating.

On another note there is a breather hose going from the rocker cover (top) to the front of the throttle body. I found that hose was so full of crap it was nearly solid. This is a crank case ventilation hose which aids in the overall running of the engine. I cleaned the hose out and found it made a huge difference in idle and response of the engine.

Good luck

The cam seal can be bought from CBC ( or other bearing suppliers ) its nothing special. Definitely change your cam belt, the HD's an interference engine - break a belt and break you piggybank

Check all the ports on the throttle body - they are very prone to blocking up. I put a rag into the throttle body ( throttle open ) and used compressed air and spray degreaser to clean them out. Not one of them was clean and the power steer idle up port was completely blocked as was the idle port ( which is why I started the job ).

Depending on the construction of your bar - winch mounting can be relatively easy ( or V difficult probably ). Mines a 9500lb lowmount - cheapie. Pic is old now, Feroza's much dirtier and less stock



Need to be aware that the weight of the winch is going to change your handling noticeably - I'm going to synthetic rope to save some kg's and safety. Haven't use the winch very often but the steel cable has a nasty habit of getting kinked etc.

Oh - and to rub it in, you missed a VERY fun day, lots of rocks and some very slippery mud ( why am I headed this direction ??? )

Glad to hear you had a good time MM.

I got the thing finished, the sway bar is gone and the bump stops got cut. I had a look at a dual battery setup. Thought about getting a unit from Jaycar but it only supports alternators up tp 70a. Since I don't know what alternator I will end up with I have to wait. Then the winch!

There are a couple of winches I have looked at. I don't really want to spend a fortune. The feroza'a are light. What winch have you got? The install looks good.

There is a kit on ebay for a 2" body lift. It's a $130.00. I know I could probablly get it cheeper but at least it's all there and ready to go, no running around.

How was the trip? Any pictures?

Aldi have their 9500lb winches for $499 again atm

Its a 9500lb Chinese import from Repco - virtually an exact copy of half a dozen others around, nothing special IMO.

Actually $130 isn't too bad for 50mm lift I suppose. By the time you source the aluminum, bolts, nuts and washers - you would come close and its a heap easier to get it all in the one place.

Lots of small things to do with 50mm lift. Some of the things that come to mind are.

Engine fan no longer aligns with radiator and shroud
Vacuum line to brake booster too short
Fuel filer needs to be lowered
Map sensor needs to be lowered.
Check transfer and gear levers are long enough and don't hit body
Front Bar and rear bumpers will be way to low and may end up interfering with headlights.
Check fuel filler hose hasn't pulled off

Can't think of others ATM but .........

Raise the body BEFORE looking at the winch - otherwise you have to do it twice.

I found a whole heep of info on the body lift. I don't know if I need it. I am not going to upgrade the tyres for now. They are still good, and I think I have enough clearence for 31x10.5s anyway,

I saw the winch in the Aldi catalogue. It dosen't seem to bad. I might go and have a lok at it. I don't really need to spend 1500 bucks on a winch.
Thanks for all your advice.