Outer Limits 4x4 Board

G'day all,

Just after some info on what to watch out for when doing a 2" body lift on a 4dr RR. Also do you need to drop the radiator back down 2" ??

What kit is best to buy and how much should I pay for it.

I am going to fit 33" tyres...so I think a body lift is almost a must (without loosing up travel)

DAS,

Not sure if u can drop the radiator and fab up new top mounts, but my kit from RTE (www.rovertym.com) has some 2" spacers for the radiator as well to keep everything lined up.

I STRONGLY recommend that kit (but since you are in Aust. there must be far more choices than Lebanon and ultimately cost you less). It cost me 235USD sent to Montreal, Canada and I carried it home by luggage.

Do you have flares?
It would be cool to ditch the Body Lift and get flares from Rangie Spares, that way, even the LITTLE (minimal) increase in COG that the Body lift does won´t affect you...that is the set-up (OME + flares) I´ll be doing to me DD to fit 305x65x18 road/sand tires.

There is nothing special in a body lift kit really - with your skills DAS you are better off making it.

The best [cheapest] lift blocks I have seen so far are boat rollers from the marine shop. These are 100mm long metal rollers that are predrilled down the middle. Cut in half and you have two 50mm body lift spacers - cost you about $50 for the lot... I think they are galv too

Brakelines can be extended 50mm by drilling out the mounting bracket on the inner wheel guard and moving down 50mm there is heaps of hard line in the engine bay to straighten.

The rest is longer bolts and a bit of mucking around with the radiator and H/L lever - nothing major.

Hi Das,
As Richard said, they can be made quite easily. Mine has nylon spacer blocks and longer bolts and the Rad is in stock postion for better airflow BUT you will need to trim the shroud for fan clearance. I made new brackets for brake lines out of 1" angle, ground off the old mounts on the inner gaurds and bolted the new ones in as low as i could. The brake lines no longer act as travel limiting straps!!
Mine is 40mm lift and the 255x85's just touch at the top of guards when flexed hard with stock front springs and bump stops.
Kevin

SOLIHL wrote:Hi Das,
Rad is in stock postion for better airflow BUT you will need to trim the shroud for fan clearance.

I don't get it why would you cut the shroud if you didn't raise the rad? I would think if you didn't raise the rad then you wouldn't nned to change anything as the shroud mounts to the rad...

i did a 2" body lift and lifted the rad 2" then I had too cut the arse out of the shroud...

On pre 85 RR the rad mounts to the front panel and with a body lift the rad lifts up with the body. Hence shroud gets cut or you lower rad.

Later RR the lower mount is on the chassy and the top bracket bolts to front panel, relocat top mounts lower by the body lift amt and all will fit.

Michael.

HSV Rangie wrote:On pre 85 RR the rad mounts to the front panel and with a body lift the rad lifts up with the body. Hence shroud gets cut or you lower rad.

Later RR the lower mount is on the chassy and the top bracket bolts to front panel, relocat top mounts lower by the body lift amt and all will fit.

Michael.

coool ta

now i can sleep tonight

okay making lift will be the way to go.

Next question is, whats better, rad up 2" or at stock position? My RR is a 84 so mounts to the shell, but if mounting it down low is better thats what i will do

also is there some rear seatbelt mounts I have to raise?? I remember reading something awhile ago thats all

dont forget while your there you might as well replace the body mount rubbers if they need it & loosen the steering shaft knuckle joints to allow some movement usually not alot & yep need to extend the rear seat belt mount bolts

Cheers Mal

Don't have a back seat so can't say what to do there but the front seat belt mounts are basic. Two flat pieces of steel with holes drilled 50mm apart will do it - don't tighten them too much! You will pull them through the floor...

If you still have an engine driven fan then keeping your radiator in line with the fan will be the best way to go - so lower it. My steering shaft had heaps of room for 50mm lift. Just got to remember to tighten them up again afterwards...

Other things to look out for: On my centre difflock one of the vaccum pipes wasn't long enough... hard clutch line needed to be removed to get the body mount bolt out...

You will also need to make some body rests as well as the bolted mounts. Look under your rear wheel arches - there are two points on each side where the body 'rests' on a chassis mount but is not bolted through. Weld on a 50mm X 50 mm box section steel here and glue the little rubber bit on top. These are important for supporting the rear floor when you have a load in the back. There is another couple of these under the front seats...

And your there - aren't you lucky I made all these mistakes first

just some pics from a mate 3inch body lift

Thats what i'm talkin bout

Nice one mickrangie

Good call on the blocks for the rear cargo floor forgot about them

Cheers Mal

Britswed wrote:Good call on the blocks for the rear cargo floor forgot about them

Cheers Mal

yeah a lot of ppls forget them!!! and it can cause some issues with such a large area unsupported

LandyMan post the pics of the RS body lift kit I can't find mine

My Body lift (2") does not have the rear blocks like in micrangie's pics...I thought about that initially...should I do it? or has anyone run a body lift for a while without that?

DiscoDino wrote:My Body lift (2") does not have the rear blocks like in micrangie's pics...I thought about that initially...should I do it? or has anyone run a body lift for a while without that?

I would doit we do all of our's but have scene the floor crack with ones that havent been done

Cheers Mal

Thing is, I'll be carrying a LOT less stuff INSIDE the truck past the rear wheel wells as I'll be chopping up the floor to make room for an extended tank and the RE winch. Still, I'll do it and it won't take much effort and time...

What the heck is half that stuff in the Ragie Spares kit for??? I understand it all is important, but not many of the extra bits look like they do what ppl have been telling me to watch out for and extend.

Also what size bolts do i need for a 2" lift, are all the bolts the same? i want to buy bolts before taking the old bolts out

I also got a Set of 255/85 R16's (second hand) BFG Mud terrains, new type. got 75% tread left...so thats what i'm fitting to disco rims and to my RR

This might help yal workit all out a little better

DiscoDino wrote:Thing is, I'll be carrying a LOT less stuff INSIDE the truck past the rear wheel wells as I'll be chopping up the floor to make room for an extended tank and the RE winch. Still, I'll do it and it won't take much effort and time...

Do it - big bump and all your shit will be sitting back down on the chassis.....

I know someone who didn't put the blocks in the rear cargo area and this happened to him. The rear of his Rangie always looked like it sat down on the right about 40mm from then on!!

I must admit, I don''t have them in the rear of mine, but I have a 1 inch bodylift and I haven't encounterd any problems yet and that was fitted 3 years ago. Got the blocks, but have to get off my arse and do it one day. The bugger about later models is that the rear cargo mounts don't bolt off, they are welded straight to the chassis and a bit nervous about welding around petrol tanks!!

Regards,

Trav

Aquarangie wrote:The bugger about later models is that the rear cargo mounts don't bolt off, they are welded straight to the chassis and a bit nervous about welding around petrol tanks!!

nofing at the rear is welded on later models.... when you jack the rear there are 4 little rubber pads where the body hits the chassis. I took them out put the new mounts in (tack weld) then replaced the rubber pads.. to tell you the truth the later models are slighty better for body lifting due to the extra factory welded supprts.. the RS kit includes the little triangle bits for the earlyer models to strenthen them..

welding around petrol tanks is fun!!! Just stuff wet rags eveywhere and have somebody around with out welding googles to look out for burning rags before it gos BANG!!

mickrangie wrote:welding around petrol tanks is fun!!! Just stuff wet rags eveywhere and have somebody around with out welding googles to look out for burning rags before it gos BANG!!

lol....and armed with a fire extinguisher

Fire extinguisher prolly won't help.... After the initial bang you and your mate and his fire extinguisher will be 30 ft away going what the fu....

Thanks for some suggestions. I have them there, and I may get them done this weekend if it's not too hot!! (unlike 41 degrees in Brisbabne last weekend).

Bodge, I see your point about the later mounts being better.

Trav

Buddy took out his steel tank from ´his '84 Wagoneer and did all the necessary proceedures to make sure it was empty and 'safe'...

Put the negative clamps on one side, took some metal, put on his welding mask, arched down, and put his right foot on the tank so that it would not move...

B
A
N
G

That thing skid for 80-100m UPHILL on the road and hit his brother's blazer!

Needless to say, he forgot that that particular tank had a small 'flood chamber' (not sure what it is in English) which was still fuel rich!

do you have to un do the gear selectors etc and the self leveler .. does that have to ba undone ??
check list
10 bolts .
rear seat belts
earth strap in engine
brake lines ..
what else
mine in up on the fork lift at the moment
thanks guys

steering uni's need to be undone

I would not lift the whole body at once as getting everything to line up again is a major PITA...

do one at a time.......

[quote="Britswed
I would doit we do all of our's but have scene the floor crack with ones that havent been done

Cheers Mal[/quote]

When I put the kit in mine I found the floor cracked already, I ended up putting a piece of 25mm angle about 900mm long down each side for extra support, I also drilled out the rivets & pulled out the floor panel to fit it, tech screwed back in of course.