Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all
My flate mate has a Feroza and it has the worst sounding engine squeek!

Sounds like a loose belt or dead berring but belts are tight and drowing the bearing in crc didnt stop it.

They have been told by a mechanic its a normal problem for a Feroza and there is nothing that can be done

Is this true?

muttis3LV6 wrote:Hi all
its a normal problem for a Feroza and there is nothing that can be done

For starters, get a new mechanic, what a tard

By using a stethoscope/screwdriver or similar can you pinpoint where the noise is coming from? Might be an idler bearing or something easy.

tried to do the screw deiver trick but not enough room to get it in!!!

Where do i get a stethoscope from?

It might be the drive belts squealing- mine did it after fitting an uprated alternator? Try putting some Dri-lube on them with the engine stopped.

Also check the power steering pump pulley hasn't worked its way loose. Does turning the A/C (if fitted?) "on" stop it? Perhaps try removing some of the drive belts and check them for wear and also check things like the power steering pump, alternator, water pump, A/C compressor etc for free rotation by hand.

It's certainly not normal and would pay to find the source before something "lets go"!

Take the belts off and run it. ( not the cam belt ! )

If quiet then put the belts back on one at a time till the noise is back....
The few seconds it takes to listen won't overheat the engine or flatten the battery.


The rest is obvious...

And as everyone says - get a new mechanic, he's either lazy or worryingly stupid - or both

hate to say it ... the mechanic may be somewhat right ...sort of ..... Here in New Zealand it's not uncomman to hear Fez's or Rocky's squealing as they take off from the lights ... I think it may be our damp colder climate but this IS a common problem.

Mine had a nasty squeal came on as the temperature started to drop as we started getting the colder nights ... tracked it down to the altenator belt .. on the surface it looked tight (no play) however i loosened the bolts off and managed to get a piece of boomstick down between the block and altenator and levered it out a little. theres stuff all room to get anything between them but it was just enough to stop the squealing. all good now

I'd get a new belt over super tight belt tensioning- you run the risk of stuffing a bearing in something by doing that. Drilube is another option.

Fault finding by fitting one belt at a time can be a bad idea - I got caught out once doing so. The problem is it changes the directional load on certain pulleys and can give false results.

(eg. the wife's old Excel was making a lot of noise so I ripped all the belts off and replaced them one at a time. I thought I'd isolated it to the power steering pump, but it was the water pump and the extra load cause by the power steering belt (last one to be fitted) caused the water pump to graunch! It was making no noise while rotating until the power steering belt was added.... )

Get a stethoscope (or a long screwdriver to your ear) and try to find the noise source that way.

im with meece on this one, it seems to be a common problem down here but most of the people i have talked to, myself included (yes i talk to myself), have found it to be a cracked exhaust manifold.

Ahhh.. yes, that could be the issue. Most people seem to describe it as a whistling noise though?

Mine was cracked but it didn't make any noise. It's a good excuse to fit extractors anyway.

yepo its an excellent excuse!

ok update
Took off the water pump/ altinator belt and the squeek gone so the fault is in that system. I dont think its the altinator as i have just replaced it and it seamed to be in great condition.

What ever it is has shreaded the belt with about 1/3 of the thickness missing, it really looks like the water pump pully is causign the problem as the belt residue is down stream of it.

I put a big bar on the altinator and got the belt freaken tight and the squeek is not not there.

my two options are
1 the belt was to loose and that caused the squeek and also shreaded the belt
2 the water pump is dying and by over tighting the belt is forcing it to work

Here's my theory based on the F300 single vee alternator and waterpump drive.

Its a problem, had massive overheating issues and ongoing slipping with the single vee drive. Crap ( and a small stone ) got wedged in the pump pulley and stripped off all but the top of the belt. Looked fine - just didn't work.

Even after replacement, still was hard to get correct drive ( its a right bitch to get correct tension on with power steer ) and would squeal when wet.

Later models and Applauses used a polyvee drive for their alternators and waterpumps and I believe with good cause. Changed mine to polyvee and no more issues and driving a bigger alternator.

Could just be a case of poor maintenance- belts don't last forever!

Put a new one on and see how it goes first (if you can't see any issue with the pulleys.) Don't get one of those "cogged" v belts- they're noisier than the standard type from what I found.... Mine used to squeal a bit but that was due to a slight misalignment with the larger alternator I fitted myself. Before that it was mostly silent. I fitted a cogged belt after reading they were quieter and discovered the total opposite!

A bit of Drilube on the belt will also keep it quiet for a month or two.

Um well i dont think it can be poor maintenance on the belt as i would have replaced it when i did the altinator, any other ideas?

hey guys i got a roza aswell and have the same problem but its only when the car is being stress. i gotta feeling its the exhaust and it stops once im driving at a sustained speed, like freeways.

ive been told by a mechanic (that i think is a massive doosh) it is my diff or wheel bearings??

i would have to agree with you that he is a doosh as either of those things dont feel the 'stress' of the engine they simply do their job no matter what and if it was either of those things they would always be making a noise and would get worse at higher speeds.

take the exhaust heat sheild off and if your like me you will be able to SEE the cracks. Then take that manifold off and go throw it at your "mechanic"

HAHAHAHAHA

will do mate, starting works on it today. i gotta get it past rego first so its just clean up work for the next few weeks then new suspension all round.

Im thinkin of SOA for rear but ive been told itll raise the rear by 5 inch which i wont be able to get on the front so it wont be balanced. is there an after market toursion bar that would allow me to match the rear??

and with toursion bars, you should never crank em up while the car is off the ground, coz we did mine like that we went past the max point so ill be letting it down abit this weekend aswell.

any thoughts or advise would be great

no there is no way to match the front with the back wihtout some major modification. It isnt the torsion bar/shock limiting travel it is the chassis and front end control arms that are doing it. SEARCH and you shall find the answers you seek, 1 2 3 4. Anyway i will back off the ads for now.

From my experience after market torsion bars are not a bad idea but will give you NO extra travel they are simply a different spring rate.....

NEVER wind the bars up with the car on the ground IM EXTREMELY supprised you didnt snap something or burr the bolts doing it!

yeah cool, it drives like rubbish with it cranked up! if i hit a pebble it will bounce down the road for bout 50mtrs and turning corners is just stupid. i three wheel!!!

phraze84 wrote:yeah cool, it drives like rubbish with it cranked up! if i hit a pebble it will bounce down the road for bout 50mtrs and turning corners is just stupid. i three wheel!!!

If its bouncing, check your shocks, they are probably shagged. Also fit a 2 inch Bl, then drop your bars a bit to regain some ride, and also some offroad capability. Having no droop will give you worse capability than it was standard and kill your CV's quicker. Look into ball joint spacers.


Layto....