Outer Limits 4x4 Board

any one got a web site or any info on fat bars.

cheers duck

heres one duckman

http://www.wombatoffroad.com.au/bull_ba ... r_work.php

they dont look as strong as cheezy bar

icrawl wrote:they dont look as strong as cheezy bar

mmmm....tube is tube........

sorry mate tube aint just tube

icrawl wrote:they dont look as strong as cheezy bar

In my experience cheezy bars arent that strong anyway.

I hit a tree at maybe 10km/hr or less on a slippery clay uphill run. The wing bent in and the middle of the bar twisted stopping the winch from working. The left side of my GQ got smashed up.

The grill, headlight, indicator, guard needed replacing and I need to send the car to a panel beater to align the drivers side panels again. Now when I fit a guard the drivers door wont open. As a temporary fix I have cut the back of a guard to give the door room.





The bar in this picture hit a tree at about 40, also on the drivers side, and while it bent a little bit, no panels were touched.

http://i140.photobucket.com/albums/r3/d ... age004.jpg

If you want strength then maybe a comp bar isnt the best idea. They look the goods though.

tube bars aren't meant to protect a vehicle in a prang like that. Did you seriously expect thhat it would? They are for mounting winches to whilst keeping the weight down I thought

You might be right but I thought it would have done better than it did because of the low speed I was doing.

As I said, A mate was driving my car and hit a tree going much faster with my old bar and it barely moved.

Everyone preaches that cheezy type comp bars are better than everything else. I guess I got caught up in the hype.

I hit a tree with my old tube bar (made by Brooksy)at around 10-15k and didnt do anything except scratch it, I guess the design and tube has something to do with it.

not preaching that their better just thought that the cheezy one look more solid than the fat ones

15kph impact and 40kph impact are very different. like i said, tube is tube.

joeblow wrote:15kph impact and 40kph impact are very different. like i said, tube is tube.

I am no expert and even I know that tube varies greatly in strength and quality. If not why do CCDA specs etc recommend minimum strength ratings and style.

fat bars are blood ystrong actually. I have seen them after prangs etc, held up really good.

booflux wrote:

joeblow wrote:15kph impact and 40kph impact are very different. like i said, tube is tube.

I am no expert and even I know that tube varies greatly in strength and quality. If not why do CCDA specs etc recommend minimum strength ratings and style.

I'd like to hear a SENSIBLE answer to this as well.

dansedgli, you hit any bar write on the outer corner like that and its going to bend. It is the weakest spot.
I`d like to see the front of your rig if you didn`t have any bar.

EVERY single bar on the market has a weak spot, hit the bar in that spot and its going to crumble like paper.
I tapped the ARB I used to have on my hilux on a stump and I mean tapped, you know when your edging up to touch something, well it bent it just doing that.

In saying all this if you want a bar that will give max protection then a tube bar is not going to be what you want.

if you want to cure that, you need a bar going from the corner (weakspot) to the chassis rail on a 45degree angle, or suitably brace it if less angle is needed

The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.
There were some pics of his GU from when he hit a tree at about 60KM (from memory) and there wasn't as much damage as that GQ above.

To say tube is tube, implying there would be no difference in these bars is just ridiculous.

GUJohnno wrote:The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.

I am far to intelligent to get into an ARB vs Cheesy vs FAT bar contest, but the tube could be made from "unobtainium" and it still be vulnerable if it takes an impact on the end of the bar, it is basic physics.
Peter.

chikoroll_ wrote:if you want to cure that, you need a bar going from the corner (weakspot) to the chassis rail on a 45degree angle, or suitably brace it if less angle is needed

I spoke to Mark this morning and he said he can straighten it up for me but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first. I might ask about getting some scrub bars added on to increase its strength and provide some extra protection when I go in friday.

The Mav is going in Friday to have a cheezy rear bar fitted.

I didnt mean to start an argument on here. I just wanted to point out that in my experience the comp bar wouldnt protect your car that much when hitting a tree. If the dumbass behind the wheel didnt hit the tree in the first place there wouldnt be an issue.

I still think the cheezy bars look great and would get another. I would take it a bit easier next time I attack that track though.

droopypete wrote:

GUJohnno wrote:The tube that Stu uses on the FAT bars are of a very high quality.

I am far to intelligent to get into an ARB vs Cheesy vs FAT bar contest, but the tube could be made from "unobtainium" and it still be vulnerable if it takes an impact on the end of the bar, it is basic physics.
Peter.

X unobtainium

dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.

This is my point about the type of bar used.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.

GUJohnno wrote:

dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.

This is my point about the type of bar used.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.

The steel is almost irrelevant (unless it is unobtainium or exhaust tube) most of the strength comes from the design.
Peter.

Ps, can you get unobtainium exhaust tube?

You could ring Stu from FAT direct 93039850.
I sell his bars because they are built strong. He is fastidious with the materials he uses and the build quality of his bars.
We used a custom bar of his in the cliff hanger and OBC and moved alot of shit with it and no damage to speak of.
Dan

our web site is

www.freedomautotech.com

The combination of material and design make a strong bar.

if you were to use a 250mpa CHS pipe with the same physical dimentions as the 500mpa CDS tube i use it will be half as strong, thats simple maths.

If you put a 45 deg brace back to your chassis you WILL bend your chassis, i would rather the bar bend than a chassis.


Stu

droopypete wrote:

GUJohnno wrote:

dansedgli wrote:but to have a go using the winch to pull it out again first.

This is my point about the type of bar used.
There would be no way you could winch the bar work out on the FAT bar I used to have, the steel was too strong for that.

The steel is almost irrelevant (unless it is unobtainium or exhaust tube) most of the strength comes from the design.
Peter.

Ps, can you get unobtainium exhaust tube?

You can only get nuecular unobtainioum exhaust tube .. it is sold in 4 foot lengths from some bunnings outlets ..

Guts wrote:dansedgli, you hit any bar write on the outer corner like that and its going to bend. It is the weakest spot.

I know its pointless. But just to add fuel to the fire, I clipped a car with the d/s corner of my old bar, and it just bounced back, put a thumb sized dent in my front quater, and then returned to its normal shape

Wrote off the other car tho



Can't beat a proper bullbar imo

we run a FAT bar on the GQ , you can remove the winch without pulling the bar off which is very important at a comp ,it has been great , with no dramas , priced well and stu gear is TOP SHELF . do yourself a favor and get one !

i should add i did heaps of reseach before i got the FAT bar , the feedback on the strenght was very very good . i will also add i run the FAT bar because we think it is the best and we want too , and would again . we also payed for the bar {$$$$$$} and are not sponsored by FAT ......

dansedgli wrote:

icrawl wrote:they dont look as strong as cheezy bar

In my experience cheezy bars arent that strong anyway.

I hit a tree at maybe 10km/hr or less on a slippery clay uphill run. The wing bent in and the middle of the bar twisted stopping the winch from working. The left side of my GQ got smashed up.

The grill, headlight, indicator, guard needed replacing and I need to send the car to a panel beater to align the drivers side panels again. Now when I fit a guard the drivers door wont open. As a temporary fix I have cut the back of a guard to give the door room.



The bar in this picture hit a tree at about 40, also on the drivers side, and while it bent a little bit, no panels were touched.


If you want strength then maybe a comp bar isnt the best idea. They look the goods though.

Thats quite interesting to see because i ran into an embankment at around 15-20km/h and no damage done other than moveing the bar on the mounts slightly arround 1mm on one side and busted a tire off both beeds.

if you want a good solid tuff bullbar give Anrew at Ontrack 4x4 a call his bar's are the best around in looks and they are as tuff as you can get.