Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey my cluch started slipping the other day while 4wd in sand and seems pritty bad how hard is it to change a cluch what needs to be done....
cheers

Depends on what car...

I recently replaced the clutch in my Jimny, very simple, no fuss.

I used an Exedy OEM equivilent replacement, was a bit light for my taste and would reccomend the Sport's Tuff version of the same. Aftermarket was significantly cheaper than Suzuki OEM.

Definitely stick with Exedy for aftermarket!!

If you haven't had much experience with cars then maybe leave the clutch to someone who knows what they are doing. As far as 4wd clutches go Sierras and Vitaras are among the easiest.

But may not be as good....

Unless you were going to a sintered/sports replacement I'd go genuine. I have seen some very poor performance from stock replacements.

I have an Exedy stock replacement in my 660 and it's OK, but I didn't have any option with my 660, and I have such stupidly low gearing I'm not asking much of it.

The bigger problem is that sand is REALLY hard on clutches, especially if your gearing is out. Make sure your gearing is OK for the tyres you're running before you cook another clutch.

Steve.

Ok, this is a took good opportunity to pass up. My clutch packed it in today, and im going to give it a go replaceing it myself.

And I did bible the question first, this is what I got.

Drain oil.
remove jackshafts from gbox to transfer, also front jackshaft to be easyier
remove starter
Remove gearstick.
remove gbox crossmember
remove sender wires from top of box and also clutch cable.
remove bolts in box and drop box out.

Is there any other advice people can give me before doing my first clutch replacement? Anything is much appreciated...

So it looks like people think excedy is the best, does anyone know a good supplier in Sydney that they can reccommend.

Wish us luck!

p.s Oh and is going to stockton (beach) in 3 weeks time a bad idea then on a brand new clutch. Wont be doing anything extreme...

its probablly the best time to go - less chance of burning a new one out than a 50% worn one =P haha

Just take along the right sized spanner to tighten it up... after mine was done, a week later the friction point had moved way out of whack as it settled in and needed adjustment.

da13ro wrote: Is there any other advice people can give me before doing my first clutch replacement? Anything is much appreciated...

Get the flywheel machined.

Make sure you top up the gearbox with oil once it is back together

The only slightly technical part is lining up the clutch plate properly. If it is slightly out it makes fitting the box back in a royal PITA.
And also, put the gearbox in gear when refitting. That way you can turn the output shaft to line up the splines on input shaft and clutch plate.

some people find it had to get the gearbox out and in because of a solid brass that goes between the chassis rails. if u get this porblem try jacking the front of the motor up so it tilts it back giving you more room.
defanatly machine the flywheel and greasethe shaft where the bearing slides on.

lexplay wrote: and grease the shaft where the bearing slides on.

And the input shaft and also the fork pivot. Nothing worse than a squeak after you have done all that work. Try not to use too much lubricant though.

Thanks for all the advice guys, will def give it a go. Priced up a exedy for $185, forgot to ask how much it is to machene the flywheel. Will see how we go.
Thanks again...

da13ro wrote:Thanks for all the advice guys, will def give it a go. Priced up a exedy for $185, forgot to ask how much it is to machene the flywheel. Will see how we go.
Thanks again...

$50 or so.

Layto....

Might seem like a pretty basic question, but i was wondering if anybody knows if the flywheel out of a 88 model zook is the same as a 92 model?

Cheers, Shaun

Planning on installing a new clutch this weekend as well.

Be careful there is actually two different thrust bearings
My clutch guy (Martins Clutch service Campbelltown) actually gives me both and I take back the one that I don't use

hay kimber
you have got to take your foot of the peddle.if you slip the clutch it will smell.
ps your car is gay
shep

Fool_injected, two different ones? Is there any way to tell before hand on the model? Or when I take the flywheel down the get machined i take the old bearing down as well?

Let me just run over my symptoms, just so I know its the clutch.
* It started slipping when leaving the kurb
* A mm of foot on the clutch causes heavy slipping
* A scratchy noise leaving the kurb (thrust bearing?)
* A shudder, that sorta feels like its coming from the rear....when taking off?
* Extremely hard to select first gear, have to try a few times...
* Putting it into reverse causes the syncros to go nuts, hinting that there is excess rotation?

Not that i know a lot about this sorta thing, but slipping on acceleration coupled with hard to get it into gear, would mean....that its not a cable problem? And really is the clutch/flywheel & bearing? All together

It all has seemed to happen at once too, not over time...

da13ro wrote:Fool_injected, two different ones? Is there any way to tell before hand on the model? Or when I take the flywheel down the get machined i take the old bearing down as well?
.

Think there was a year when they changed (maybe coily) but my truck being a frankenstien I never know until I pull it down

also worth changing rear main seal while flywheel is off IMO..

hey sheps
are you going to get you car off bricks and come for a trip or are you going to fix everything that is new on it already.
and my car is only . when your car is behind me

da13ro wrote:Let me just run over my symptoms, just so I know its the clutch.
* It started slipping when leaving the kurb
* A mm of foot on the clutch causes heavy slipping
* A scratchy noise leaving the kurb (thrust bearing?)
* A shudder, that sorta feels like its coming from the rear....when taking off?
* Extremely hard to select first gear, have to try a few times...
* Putting it into reverse causes the syncros to go nuts, hinting that there is excess rotation?

Not that i know a lot about this sorta thing, but slipping on acceleration coupled with hard to get it into gear, would mean....that its not a cable problem? And really is the clutch/flywheel & bearing? All together

It all has seemed to happen at once too, not over time...

This all means the clutch is not clearing properly, engine is still drivng gears around. Is there freeplay at the clutch fork? There is an adjustment at the end of the cable where it meets the fork. The clutch is probably still worn out but worth adjusting first as you may get a bit more life out of it.

Theres 2 different clutches, 2 different pressure plates, 2 different thrust bearings and 2 different fly wheels. It all adds up to a PITA. I went down this road a couple of months back. The autobarn guy swore to me that it was the right clutch. He gave me the 19.3mm spline version when I needed the 22.75mm spline. Mine is a 91 and my girlfriends is an 88 both have the larger splined version. Basically when you buy the clutch kit you will usually get the pressure plate, thrust and clutch plate to suit one of the spline sizes above. As far as I know the earlier zuks had the 19.3mm spline version with a flat flywheel, the later ones had the 22.75mm spline version with a stepped flywheel. I reckon the safest option would be to pull it out and take the stock clutch plate in and compare the splined section to the new one.

Also check the fork inside the bell house that locates the thrust bearing. Theres a little locating pin for the thrust bearing. Mind had sheared off. As a result I put mine all back together and the bearing would fly back and forth hitting the pressure plate, jamming it all up and generally ruining my day hehe.

JW

Definitely no free play at all...will see how we go tomorrow. Thanks guys!

Ok, so the clutch is all out, flywheel is of ready to be machened tomorrow. Should the engine be really loose now the gearbox has been removed. It is extremely loose, and can be moved around easily from the flywheel.

Cheers,
Brodie J

yes it will be like that....mmmmmm....i have an auto..........

da13ro wrote: Should the engine be really loose now the gearbox has been removed. It is extremely loose, and can be moved around easily from the flywheel.

Yeah, it will be loose. It relys on the gearbox mount to hold it all in place. It will rock back and forward with only the 2 engine mounts holding it.

Well, its all on, and works beautifully. Was a bit of a pain getting the cable back on tight...

Thanks for all your help guys, wish I had taken more photo's, but if anyone else has any questions im pretty sure I can answer alot of them now...