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wheel bearings
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 8:50 pm
by me217
hey
i have ordered in new wheel bearings all round. and i needed to no wat tools ill need and a ruff guide on wat to do. thanks, ive searched the bible btw.
any help would be great.
me217
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 9:13 pm
by foolsp33d
done a full right up check about 5-6 pages in.. actually check further than that.. these types of threads push it further and further into the index... try WHEEL BEARINGS in your search. NT vs WT, been answered in HEAPS of detail many a times... pics of whats required, tools part numbers, torque specs.. Everything! just need to search..
FWIW, i found out by researching..
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:29 pm
by GRPABT1
Look for
www.suzi-info.com or something like that in the bible. It has links to full workshop manuals which is what I used when doing my wheel bearings. At the very least, claw hamme, greese, oil, wheel brace, jack stands and a big ass socket.
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:34 pm
by fool_injected
Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2008 11:38 pm
by MUD-PIGSIERRA
Bible Search... Well the first step is all you'll need to follow and the very last bit but you'll get most of the info from there.
Hub rebuild
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... 94#1256294
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:08 am
by Pinball
GRPABT1 wrote:Look for
www.suzi-info.com or something like that in the bible. It has links to full workshop manuals which is what I used when doing my wheel bearings. At the very least, claw hamme, greese, oil, wheel brace, jack stands and a big ass socket.
Hmmm... big socket???... oh... you mean cold chisel and hammer..
Spock
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:25 am
by GRPABT1
Nah the big ass socket (I think about 50mm it escapes atm) is to fit the axle seal back in on the rear (only done the rear myself) nice and flush.
Oh and they're easy to get from my work

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 10:18 am
by zook4fun
50 mm socket to do the front bearings.
if grpabt1 can get 1 for you and post it you'll be laughing, i had to wait for 2 weeks to get 1 in canberra and it is not quite deep enough. every place i went stocked 48,52,54 mm and couldn't get a 50 mm hub socket
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 10:59 am
by want33s
I got my 3/4 drive 50mm socket and 3/4 breaker bar from Repco.
The socket was $25 and the bar was $35. Both were in stock.
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:36 pm
by GRPABT1
Blackwoods is your friend

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:03 pm
by weaves
make sure you put the drum brake backing plate before pressing on the bearing

(you only make mistakes like that once)
do you guys have any tips for putting the locking collar on in a NT without a press?
last time after bashing and bashing for about an hour my neighbour informed me that he had a hydraulic press and presto done. only problem is its not big enough to do the long driveshaft sides.
Weaves...
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 5:36 pm
by foolsp33d
3/4"? gal pipe to knock NT coller on..
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:05 pm
by me217
we dont have a press but we got big hammers lol. will that work
me217
Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:31 pm
by CairnsZook
weaves wrote:do you guys have any tips for putting the locking collar on in a NT without a press?
Put your axles in the freezer and leave them there overnight, they will shrink.
Put the collar in the oven for about half an hour or so, it will expand.
Should make the job quite a bit easier.

Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:33 pm
by me217
if only it would fit lol. any real tips to make things easier.
me217
Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 2:24 am
by GRPABT1
Don't oven the collar to hot though it may permanently warp it. In theory it should work though.
Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2008 10:17 am
by Guy
If you "split" the old collar you can use it to help drive the new one on.
I used an old brake drum (still bolted to a rim) to use as a base for the axle and star picket installer.
Pop the backing plate etc all together put the collar on and then the old collar as well ... and tap resonably hard for a bit.