Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I'm looking at getting a front mount on my gu ute as i am still not sure about gas yet, does anyone have any tips on the set up, is bigger better and roughly how much should i be paying for supply and install? Cheers in advance. Also whats the price difference between air to air and water to air, Cheers

Air to air is a bit difficult on a GU as the radiator is so wide so its hard to get the piping around . Im going to go water to air on my GU as i think it will be easier then a air to air in the GU. have a look at this kit .

http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info ... 332f73cc37

looks pretty good do you know of anyone who has one

It's not that hard. We have a turbo 4.5 GU with a 600 * 300 cooler, winch bar, air con and all the standard electic front fans.
I'll try to remember to take a photo tomorrow. It's on the dyno at the moment, at 16psi boost intake air temperature is only 5 degrees above atmospheric, shame the clutch let go as we were making 1500 Nm at 2200 rpm in 4th on 37 inch x-terrains, should be over 350 rwkW when finished.

Joel

Id like to see some pics of that 4.5 turbo ! sounds like a weapon

I'll take some tomorrow if I remember.

Joel

I have fited PWR 6inch water to air coolers to GQ & GUs there not easy be prepared to pay $$$$$

I will 2nd that, we have now done a Gu and Gq 6" pwr water to air i/c. They do take a lot of time to make everything fit with all the other accessories under the bonnet.

However they are the best around at the moment.



Andy

What sort of dollars for the pwr water to air as apposed to air to air

I have a Safari front mount on mine and the piping all fits relatively neatly and out of harms way. Not a bad option but if you've got the money for a water to air i'd go for that and if Andy says the PWR is the go i'd trust him.

water-air IC is the shiz... a little more cluttered under bonnet but well worth it. air to air IC is more affective with speed. water-air is ideal for crawling, forbi conditions.

This thread is useless without piks...

Some photos of GU front mount and my work in progress GU 4.2 top mount.
Oh and a tuning shot of 1500Nm in 4th gear on 37 inch tyres at the wheels.

Joel,
does the Gu front mount still run a/c and p/s coolers? We struggle just to fit a rad and fan behind the grill with a/c. I just looked a little closer, thats a very bowed out grill.
The td42 seems like a lot of work for only a/a intercooling. Must be a big smiley scoop on the bonnet. What are the expectations of it?


Andy

Still interseted in price difference and i want my ute to look as standard as possible and it has no body lift, is that going to make it harder to do one or the other

IMO there is better value for money on the market than PWR water to air. They are alot easier to mount and seem to be quite efficent.
I dont know anyone over here that has one and say they work real well.

Prices are dependant on what size barrel is used. I think a 6x10" barrel kit is around the 17-1800dollar mark. Then there is the pipe work, brackets, plumbing and wiring to do.

Dont be suprised if it takes upwards of 15 - 20hrs plus to do it all.


Andy

Dzltec wrote:Joel,
does the Gu front mount still run a/c and p/s coolers? We struggle just to fit a rad and fan behind the grill with a/c. I just looked a little closer, thats a very bowed out grill.
The td42 seems like a lot of work for only a/a intercooling. Must be a big smiley scoop on the bonnet. What are the expectations of it?


Andy

Yep A/C and factory fans all fitted along with a low mount winch.

I find the intake air temps are lower with an air to air tha water to air, larger heat exchange area means slower flow over the core and cooler outlet temps. Also each heat exchange causes reduced efficiency, water to air and back. The top mount is actually very easy to fit and has 2x10" fan underneath. 4 bolts and 2 clamps and its off to do the tappets. The scoop will be twice the width of the 2.8 and 3.0l factory scoop (so central) but only about 1 " longer towards the rear.
We datalog the outlet temps and compare to room ambiant and find even at high boost levels the air to air is hard to beat. We had a 16" inch PWR and ditched it for a custom one on the 4.3 turbo Suzuki due to high outlet air temps (70 degrees), and we now have it down to 55 degrees.

I am hoping for a reliable 180 rwkW from mu TD42, but its the daily driver so longevity is priority.



Joel

There are some good value water/air ic's on ebay.

I am a little wary of the cheap ones (surely would have to made in China at this price) as I worry that if a water leak developed it would be bad news for a diesel engine. Theres not a lot of material between the water cores and the air passages.......


Maybe I worry too much.......

PGS 4WD wrote: The scoop will be twice the width of the 2.8 and 3.0l factory scoop (so central) but only about 1 " longer towards the rear.
Joel

I presume this will be custom. Would be interested the finished product.

Do you sell them or point us in the direction as to where they are avaialble.

You'd be amazed what you can buy. I google images and scoops until I find the one I want.

Joel

Would a front mount be better than say a top mount cooler of a intercooled patrol? I was told today around 1500 for a front mount, does that sound alright?

Looking the front mount on the gu there is more bull bar than cooler showing. How do you cool the other half of your intercooler?

After seeing just how well the Laminova water to air of Matt Mcinnes is working I'm looking forward to getting on to building the TD42 Laminova water to air I/cooler we have planned.
I'm trying to convince him to punch more boost into it to really try it out rather than the current 8 psi but he won't be in it. Not that he really needs to, the old 40 series really hauls quickly, very very impressive.
Regards Andrew.

Andrew, I have an ideal candidate to test your i/c if you wish.


I am looking for that something special for mine.



Andy

awill4x4 wrote:After seeing just how well the Laminova water to air of Matt Mcinnes is working I'm looking forward to getting on to building the TD42 Laminova water to air I/cooler we have planned.
I'm trying to convince him to punch more boost into it to really try it out rather than the current 8 psi but he won't be in it. Not that he really needs to, the old 40 series really hauls quickly, very very impressive.
Regards Andrew.

I heard that

Here is a link or 2

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic139 ... t=laminova

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24- ... ooler.html

Andrews right about one thing though

unclearther wrote:Looking the front mount on the gu there is more bull bar than cooler showing. How do you cool the other half of your intercooler?

When you are pushing a brick through the air there is a fair bit of pressure at the front, if you look at the front openings on most late model cars you would wonder how they stay cool. Stick your hand out the window at 80 kph and you'll see what I mean, the air will race in every opening available and pressurize the front.
The GU has a radiator design flaw in regards to the hose outlet locations and size which is the cause of heating issues not the air flow.
The effectiveness of a top mount depends on the effectiveness of the scoop, physical size and insulation from underbonnet heat. One thing that can be an issue with the engine bay being full of accessories is the air cannot get out and the high pressure in the engine bay reduces the ability of fresh cool air to enter. I would suggest the ideal air to air setup is a front mount with a reverse scoop to depressurize the engine bay therefore allowing unrestricted flow from the front. That isn't going to suit everyone though.

Joel

ok here is a list of my questions about a front mount on my gu ute. if you can answer 1 or more or all of them it would be greatly appreciated.
1:will a be able to keep my truck looking standard with a front mount? i dont have any body lift, not sure if that makes any difference
2:does 1500 sound alright
3:it will be bought as a complete kit, are there any better than others?
4:should i get it put on the dyno agin afterwards?
5:can anyone give me a rough installed price on a water to air?
any other usefull info would be good aswell cause i know f all about the situation and dont want to get my pants pulled down, if you know what i mean! Thanks guys

1. As standard as the photos I posted, the grill can be relpaced with stiff mesh to retain a more stock look, it needs slight shaping to clear the cooler upper edges.
2. Depends on the quality, E-bay cooler and mild steel would cover it, if you want stainless then more.
3. Don't know about kit availability, ours is made toi the vehicle.
4. Certainly onthe dyno or you won't get the full benefit, cooler intake air allows you to add more fuel as the EGT's will be lower with the cooler fitted.
5. Probably take a day to day 1/2, some fabrication required, mounts and pipes. Dpends again on the quality you want. Personally I make a header tank as they bleed much easier, need to see the car for room due to accessories fitted and so on.

Joel