Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ive done my research and after wanting to rebuild and turbo my lux for dd, ive been conned to looking at going 3rz instead.. Now ive got crawler gears so low down tourque wont be a drama i dont think, however is there any lil things i should be looking at doing whilst converting?

What should i do in the way of airbox? Also just wanted to no how to adapt my tacho for revs, alot of the time ppl dont seem to worry about hooking them up, i dont want half assed job as she is still daily.

Most yank sites are full of crap talk and no to the point shit so thought id just pipe up and ask, so any help appreciated.. Cheers. Chris

i went the 3.0TD route...

If you get a KZN130 manual surf, all you need to do is buy a transfer adaptor plate, and move your engine mounts 63mm backwards- the rest is just a direct change over

Chris, ill let you know about the tacho, as soon as i can be assed to go down to jaycar n get a few resistors. If i get mine to work just get a petrol cluster.

Monster tacho on the bonnet tug tug

i know what your saying about the U.S sites but there is some great Tech if you sift through all the crap.
try this one if you havn't already. http://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=19275.0

What's the going price of a 3rz these days?

why a 3rz and not another diesel or a 6 or 8 cylinder??

chris i reckon you should go another diesel mate, everytime i go out with a petty truck it shits itself lol, mainly from water crossings and mud.
would be interesting to see what would go better with your mods tho.

My 3RZ never had an issue in water or mud. I honestly think I would consider it over a 1UZ if I was doing a swap in another Lux.

I dont know if any of you hav seen my other post about reco'in a disel n turb'in it.. but basically ive got quotes bythe time im rebuild decompressed and turbo'd im lookin 7 grand if not more...fark that.

To be honest i love my diesel i really do but its just so dam slow to the point im sick of it. Its got a few k;s on it too so she will most probably be getting tired, i dont no for sure but nothing runs forever

I hate mud and my rig will only get dunked if its the only way through, fresh water is no dramas, ppl that hit it at 100 k an hour are the ones with the problems not the car.

Im mainly interested in short course shit and certain hillls the diesel just aint enuf, and for daily i just would like to be able to get to 100k an hour in under 3 minutes

oh n i dont want a v8 cuz there is too much farkin around and im an aprrentice 2nd year chippy... you recon a 2nd year chippy would have the funds to do a UZ.. not a chance and i get to keep my 4cyl rego.

just took this from that link, after reading it is a pretty good lil motor...

Only the 22R-Es. The 3.0 does not outperform the 2.7 3RZ-FE 4cyl:

3RZ-FE (2.7 4cyl) - 150@4800 / 177@4000
3VZ-E (3.0 6cyl)- 150@4800 / 180@3400

Take two identicle vehicles and run a 2.7 vs a 3.0 and the 3.0 will get spanked, period. The 2.7 is lighter and much more rev-happy. I do not believe that the 3.0 V6 can hang with a 2.7 I4. That is my opinion.

Some cool numbers that show why the 3RZ is the real deal:
22R: 40 HP per liter
22R-E: 47 HP per liter
3VZ-E (3.0): 50 HP per liter
5VZ-E (3.4): 54 HP per liter
22R-TE: 56 HP per liter * TURBO *
3RZ-FE (2.7): 56 HP per liter * NO TURBO *

Wow, that really puts things into perspective Even out performs the 3.4l V6 in power/size.

also to this, my g52 box n case should be all good, especially in low with the 110%ers in there.. been told a 2wd bellhousing is the go too. 4.3 diffs from what ive herd in another search are good too. so should sit alright on the hway.. hmm, looking like a goa.

Cheerrs, Chris.

Lux_89 wrote:just took this from that link, after reading it is a pretty good lil motor...

Only the 22R-Es. The 3.0 does not outperform the 2.7 3RZ-FE 4cyl:

3RZ-FE (2.7 4cyl) - 150@4800 / 177@4000
3VZ-E (3.0 6cyl)- 150@4800 / 180@3400

Take two identicle vehicles and run a 2.7 vs a 3.0 and the 3.0 will get spanked, period. The 2.7 is lighter and much more rev-happy. I do not believe that the 3.0 V6 can hang with a 2.7 I4. That is my opinion.

Some cool numbers that show why the 3RZ is the real deal:
22R: 40 HP per liter
22R-E: 47 HP per liter
3VZ-E (3.0): 50 HP per liter
5VZ-E (3.4): 54 HP per liter
22R-TE: 56 HP per liter * TURBO *
3RZ-FE (2.7): 56 HP per liter * NO TURBO *

Wow, that really puts things into perspective Even out performs the 3.4l V6 in power/size.

also to this, my g52 box n case should be all good, especially in low with the 110%ers in there.. been told a 2wd bellhousing is the go too. 4.3 diffs from what ive herd in another search are good too. so should sit alright on the hway.. hmm, looking like a goa.

Cheerrs, Chris.

Hey mate my old 3rz ran a W56 with 4.3 ratios standard if your running 33s or larger Id look at 4.88s.

thanks gary. I run 30x9.5xr15's on the road. Offroad ya all no 34/11.5/15's. The majority of my driving is onroad with the offroading about once every second weekend. Does this help? I think 30's with 4.3 diffs should be ok?

30s with 4.3 would be a great combo imo

ah k cool. sounds like i have a win drive train wise...

Found some airbox ideas, so basically no what ill do there.

im just waiting for sloshy to do me up that list of bits ill need.
just hoping the transition from deisel to petty will be smooth. Will have to organise for the monday after the weekend of conversion for it to get all the exhauset done too... The old man is already talking about gettin a cam for it and port polish n shavin ect... will never loose his petrol head aspect

cam will be a no no, the ecu wont take it, i tried many things with my 2wd 3rz, the stock computer wont cope with it.


theres the wiring diagram for swapping to aftermarket ecu.

Ignition wire :

Stock ecu (run it over to the ignition barrell the one in the stock loom cant support the power draw from the relays)

Throttle position sensor :

Stock ecu Yellow : (signal out)
Stock ecu Green/yellow trace : (5v input from ecu)
Stock ecu Light green/black trace : (Ground)

Cam angle sensor :

(dont need it if you set the injectors up to run batched)

Stock ecu Black : (ground) (the cam angle sensor is not needed)
Stock ecu White : (signal out)

Crank angle sensor :

(
the loom wire colors change from the plug going to the sensor and the plug going to the ecu, those combinations are from sensor to plug)

stock ecu Red (shielding)
Stock ecu Green (trigger)
Stock ecu Brown/White dots (ground)

Injector 1 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red/blue trace (ground)

Injector 2 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Blue (ground)

Injector 3 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu White (ground)

Injector 4 :

Stock ecu black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red (ground)

to just use 2 injector banks ive linked injector 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 together
(note : opposite to how the wasted spark ignition works)

Coil packs :

stock ecu black/red trace (12v)
stock ecu blue/white trace (ignition trigger)
stock ecu brown (ground)
stock ecu white/black trace (misfire recognition/tacho) not used on aftermarket ecu's


thanks to richard for that diagram

as the diagram said ignition 1 output from the ecu goes to coil pack 1,4 . ignition ouput 2 goes to coil 1,3

the 3rz coils have built in ignitors hence the 3 wires instead of the 2.


Idle Motor

stock ecu
stock ecu havnt go that far yet.
stock ecu
stock ecu




NOTES : for people that dont know everything

The crank angle sensor is magnetic NOT hall effect

Cam angle sensor is used as HOME but not needed.

The cas is a 34 tooth wheel, but in the trigger setup it needs to be put in as 68 tooth
(i have trigger btdc set to 53 degrees and offset set to 4)

There is some good tech there guys.
If anyone needs more help i have had my 3-rz in the lux about 3.5 years.

Rory wrote:Chris, ill let you know about the tacho, as soon as i can be assed to go down to jaycar n get a few resistors. If i get mine to work just get a petrol cluster.

Why do you want a tacho when its got a limiter
If you did hook up a tach keep the diesel one for the earlier red line look

slosh wrote:What's the going price of a 3rz these days?

Around a $1000 for a bare engine

Ah look 100Kmh and sitting 500rpm in the red line don't think it'll be that bad dude

Lux_89 wrote: The old man is already talking about gettin a cam for it and port polish n shavin ect... will never loose his petrol head aspect

"I got some nitrous oxide laying around, its a sweet sensation"

You wouldn't gas it chriss

3RZ FTMFW

nuff said.

thanks brad.......

no gas, thats jus dumb... wtf does that mean bubs!?

also i have to use the 3rz ps pump hey, i cant just mate up the diesel one?

Thanks, Chris

Lux_89 wrote:thanks brad.......

no gas, thats jus dumb... wtf does that mean bubs!?

also i have to use the 3rz ps pump hey, i cant just mate up the diesel one?

Thanks, Chris

You could mount the diesel pump but why? You'd have to change the pully too (I assume the diesel is a v belt?)

And getting the tacho to work is harder than it sounds. I tried the resister tech from pirate and it didn't work for me. Although you can plug any aftermarket tacho, timing light tacho etc into the ecu output and it works - it's just the standard toyota tacho that's the problem...

Yeah diesel pump is V belt run the newer pump

oh yeh, fair enuf. im just keen to get all the interior looking good and not have wank gauges everywhere. I found a tacho i want if i have to go that way. I just dont like things that dont work

i run a tacho thats about the size of a shitlight, and it has a digital readout in it, nice and small and you can see it easier than a tacho.

yeh might go that wyaa then... hmm ill just look for one i like, its all adding up LOL loan is going through soon so its a definet.. ill just make this the thread im posting in with the swap.