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Mazda springs q's And pics*
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 6:29 pm
by BlueSuzy
ok been trying the rear mazda 323 springs in the rear via trial and error.
These pics it sits tooo low. stock mazda spring, with 15mm wheelbase ext.
These pics are with mazda main. 2" mid, 2"semimid (smaller with clamps), Then mazda bottom. (cant really see, small..)
Now im getting a funny warp in the spring because of the 2" springs in the middle...
Should i just cut the main 2" spring with the loops for shackles not on the car, so it sits out more so the pivot point of the spring is off the other leaf as shown?
I confused on what to do... rises up to stock bumpstop, But does not seem to drop 'without short shocks' more then before either on a ramp up a drain canal...
OR, Sorry.. Should i have gone Mazda main, 2"main, 2"semi and chuck in a mazda one on bottom. I want to try and get it soft but with some lift...
Hard to explain.
Thanks
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:01 pm
by joeblow
not enough springs in the pack and the leaf that sits under the main is not long enough. if the only gearing you have is transfer gears it will make this worse.
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:06 pm
by BlueSuzy
This is just how the springs have sat TODAY just after they have been put in TODAY!...Took for a drive and they stayed the same...
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:12 pm
by joeblow
when using mazda springs you have to use the second leaf from that pack also.
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 7:17 pm
by BlueSuzy
The second mazda leaf is flatish like the main leaf...Even if i add the 2nd mazda leaf it will probably bend the same way. But down further in the pack
My 2" second leaf is as long as the mazda 2nd leaf..
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:17 pm
by NIK
These mazda spring look real good, the are 323 wagon?? What years do I look for?
Your 2nd leaf should be very close to the same lenght as the main otherwise it will kink where the shorter 2nd leaf sits, once you get that sorted and longer shocks that should flex nice!
Nik
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:58 pm
by ofr57
looks like the same spring in moose's old beast
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:26 pm
by BlueSuzy
80's years rwd mazda 323 wagons rear springs NIK...
Thats what i was thinking about the 2nd leave should be the same but isnt.
The stock pack might just have to make do...or chopup my 2"main, which i really dont wanna do because if it doesnt work, im left without a main 2"...
Moose has a mazda main, but his 2nd leave is the same length, dunno if he has played with them though...
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:42 pm
by VR Rodeo
I know it's not ideal but you could try closing the clamp tight around the pack for the extra support, although a longer 2nd would be better
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:50 pm
by BlueSuzy
yes thats another thing i was thinking for a quick fix, but id wouldent work out to be ok, at a closer look.
If i just went stock 323 rears and stock rears up front, she'd be low but would have alot of drop right? Might look funny also.
Would that be ok? i would still like life but if its not possible i might not worry bout it..
Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2008 10:42 pm
by zook4fun
if you use the 2nd mazda spring it will take some of the pressure of the other main leaf and sit a little bit higher.
think about bending 2 twigs the same size instead of 1
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 8:06 am
by moose
oh dear , the old spring saga continues !!!
i ran the 2nd mazda leaf ,
then played around with combo of zook & mazda springs !!
i got it to sit at a nice hight , but after a couple of hours driving/playing , the springs would soften , & bottom out too easy !
So i had them reset 50mm !!
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:19 am
by BlueSuzy
oops.
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:24 am
by BlueSuzy
I am now thinking to just go stock mazda rears, Stock rears up front and see how she sits...if she looks alittle low under the chassis, since the springs will sit almost flat, a spoa might be the go for rocks etc.....
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:41 am
by GRPABT1
If your tyres don't rub with stock mazda springs and rears up front them why bother going SPOA?
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 10:55 am
by dank
Bluesuzy I've got the 808 springs in the rear of mine and it sits the diff 7mm back from stock. I've used the mazda main, secondary, then the 3rd 2inch OME rear leaf and then the fourth OME rear load spring (flat with bracket). It looks like it will sit a little lower than normal but this is what I am after.
As the others have said go the main and secondary from the 323 then build the rest up with your other springs.
Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2008 1:28 pm
by BlueSuzy
oh ok, i just put the spring back to the normal 2"lift pack....
I may put them in at a later date...
The King spring 2"s are really stiff springs, Maybe thats why it hasnt worked for me..Might be ok for u with the 2" ome's.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 8:35 pm
by Gwagensteve
GRPABT1 wrote:If your tyres don't rub with stock mazda springs and rears up front them why bother going SPOA?
X2 - I can't see any reason why you need to be any taller than the front of your car now Bluesuzy.
Steve.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:17 pm
by BlueSuzy
I havent gone ruf yet with the standards rears , it is just 2" spring, with removed leaves, 2"body, prob 2-3" shackle...
The reason i was maybe thinking of goin spoa is because the mazda springs are flat , and with the stocker rears up front it will probably level out the car so its low with the 33"s.....
I'm just very unsure on what to do, Either lower the car, and possibly get more flex? Or keep the same height and not scrub the chassis on the odd rock etc...
Atm, my rear flexes up and just touches the guards with the stock bumps touching. My fronts dont flex as much... Just rubbs on the front behind the headlights under steering with wheels up. Front diff is 25mm forward.
Low is still ok? Just not on rocks. More stable...lots of drop.
Will end up having to change my shock mounts too asap after spring swap.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:23 pm
by Gwagensteve
The ( oh, hang on, 'A') problem with SPOA is that you need more spring rate than SPUA to control axle wrap. Many people think they'll run a spua spring with leaves pulled to make it flat in a SPOA application to keep the lift low. This won't work - you'll have insane axle wrap problems.
Why is a low car bad on rocks? I'd take a car with 2" of lift and a flat belly pan over a 5" lifted car ib the rocks any day. If the chassis is on the rock, the car is stable.
Steve.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:34 pm
by BlueSuzy
ok Gwagen, im now tempted to put the stock mazda 323's in, put the stock rufs in and see how she goes.
And with the flat belly idea, i already have a transfer lift so a bash plate might be on the way!
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:36 pm
by zook4fun
i have to agree with gwagensteve about having a low car with a belly pan on rocks.
a spoa car on rock just make the angles even worse! the track of your wheels need to go wider if you go spoa and are going on angles. my last car was spoa with wt diffs and very tippy even with lots of flex. the c.o.g kills you.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 9:47 pm
by BlueSuzy
I also forgot to mention... The spoa will only be done with lux or similar diff conversion. So the weight and strength would be there too for help.
But i will do the springs this week then.
Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2008 11:57 pm
by ofr57
wouldn't you archive lift by moving the chassie mounted spring perch more down
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 9:47 am
by rustyzook
zook4fun wrote: a spoa car on rock just make the angles even worse!
Take your skirt off! SPOA on NT 1LTR diffs with 2" extendard shackles and 2" BL on 30" rubber angle are fun in the rocks
:D:D
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 10:03 am
by GRPABT1
BlueSuzy wrote:I also forgot to mention... The spoa will only be done with lux or similar diff conversion. So the weight and strength would be there too for help.
But i will do the springs this week then.
On lux diffs you will need bigger tyres to achieve the same diff clearance you have now SPUA on suzuki diffs.....
And rustyzook, shut up we are trying to help the poor guy not kill him.
Posted: Mon Jun 23, 2008 4:48 pm
by BlueSuzy
Im aware of the advantages/disadvantages of a diff swap being diff clearance etc. etc.
Just trying to sort out my car.
Putting the stocko mazdas in tonight, should take an hour
Im a pro now...
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:38 pm
by rustyzook
ok now i will try and help
Keep it spua, spoa is really unstable, but mine is NT
if you go hilux get 4.88 centers and hopper gears and put some 35" rubber on itand you will have some good diff clearence.
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 1:44 pm
by rustyzook
or u could get the mazda pack reset! and there was a tread about carry van spring in the front could be an option
Posted: Tue Jun 24, 2008 10:03 pm
by BlueSuzy
I have now made up my decision!!!!
I have the stock mazda 323 rears in the back.
I have the stock suzy sierra rears up front.
The rear shackle angle is like 1st pic,
Then front shackle angle is abit more vertical, i said abit...
Both sets of spring packs make it lower then before, Bit like the 1st pic up top, but all round.
The rear diff is drilled 35mm back = 15mm extra wheelbase
The front diff is stock rear spring location = 30mm extra wheelbase(on my springs)
I now need new longer brake lines. Yet to sort out how much longer
And then via a huge flex test (Crossing my fingers it flexes hardcore
) I will need to remount the shockmounts higher to suit the dropage. Front and back
See how we go now..