Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Not sure if this only applys to my hilux so i will put it in general for now.

I have LED lights and apparently the electrician installed a special module (not sure if it is just resistors) to make it blink at the correct rate. Indicators are coming on but not blinking.

Could it possibly be the "module" or would it only be the flasher unit
Is there a way to test the flasher unit

Use a led specific flasher can

I had the opposite , put LED's on my GQ Dual cab and they flash really fast now , might have to look at get another flasher unit ,any idear where to get them from , do you know if Supa cheap or Repco sell them.

Mine did flsh really fast and then the elecy put something on there to fix it and it worked; now they are just a solid light though

Time=resistance X capacitance

ie Flash Rate = (voltage squared/wattage ) x Capacitor in the Flasher can

This why they flash faster when a bulb blows (resistance is reduced)

LEDs have no resitance so 0 X anything = 0 so time = zero

With regards to ones staying on and ones not working at all it just depends on the state of the flasher can contacts when you turn the indicator off.
ie. If you turned you blinker off last when it was in its on state (contacts closed-lights illuminated) it will remain in that state

The 'module' you refered to in your first post is a resistor - bit of a bandaid fix

Better to spend the $$$ on LED specific flasher can


edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse

fool_injected wrote:Better to spend the $$$ on LED specific flasher can

Yep it most certainly is. I'm pretty sure Hella does have a Toyota LED flasher unit. If not just do as I had to do and make a little adapter harness, only takes 2 mins.

Also just some advice with the LED flasher units, either make sure any trailer you tow also has LEDs or change the rest of your vehicles indicators with the LED replacement bulbs. LED flasher unit can only run a max of one incandescent (normal) bulb.

I learnt that the hard way

They are costly though ~$50 for the Hella units and can be hard to find.

I fitted a non load sensitive flasher unit, Supercheap, was about $12. Only problem is there is no change if you blow a bulb.

Narva part number is 68212BL

fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse

Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.

All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )

However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.

Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.

Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.

-Scott- wrote:

fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse

Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.

All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )

However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.

Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.

Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.

Now you've done my head in

fool_injected wrote:They are costly though ~$50 for the Hella units and can be hard to find.

No not really, both of the ones I bought were under $25, although some wanted upto $40, and were in every parts shop I went to (except for supershit)

*EDIT* - Yes, the LED flashers do keep a constant flash rate no matter how many bulbs you run/disconnect. So basically, 'lose' a bulb and you'll only know when either you check your lights or when someone tells you.

superheap have a variable flasher, which lets you run normal bulbs or LEDs or both and keep the flash rate as per normal... dunno how it des it, senses the resistance or something prehaps?

You can also wire a 5 watt globe into both left and right indicator circuits and it will make them flash at the same speed as before.

fool_injected wrote:They are costly though ~$50 for the Hella units and can be hard to find.

Under $20 at supercheap. It's just a non-load-sensitive flasher relay.

... edit: as phippsy said.

-Scott- wrote:

fool_injected wrote:edit: hope my ohms law is right or -Scott- will kick my arse

Your Ohm's Law is OK, but the rest of your explanation is doing my head in.

All the bulbs are in parallel, so losing one increases the effective resistance, so your "resistance x capacitance" theory should increase the time constant and slow the flash rate (f = 1/RC? - I think... )

However, the other way you expressed it works out OK - remove one bulb, wattage has decreased so flash rate will increase.

Bottom line - lose a globe, flash rate increases. We agree.

Somebody else can point out which one of us went wrong where.

No expert but ill give an explaination a go.

Most of the electronic load sensitive units use a transistor to 'drive' the relay coil windings. This drive transistor's base is biased through a voltage divider configuration consisting of a few fixed resistors and resistor, capacitor timing system (on the top half of the voltage divider) and on the bottom, another fixed resistor in series with the 'load', the parallel bulbs. Loose one of these bulbs, increases the resistance on the bottom of the voltage divider and hence the bais of the drive transitor's base, bringing the saturation and cutoff regions closer (on/off bias points), therefore increasing the flash rate.

Hope it makes sense to someone,
Cheers Dan

JrZook wrote:No expert but ill give an explaination a go.

Most of the electronic load sensitive units use a transistor to 'drive' the relay coil windings. This drive transistor's base is biased through a voltage divider configuration consisting of a few fixed resistors and resistor, capacitor timing system (on the top half of the voltage divider) and on the bottom, another fixed resistor in series with the 'load', the parallel bulbs. Loose one of these bulbs, increases the resistance on the bottom of the voltage divider and hence the bais of the drive transitor's base, bringing the saturation and cutoff regions closer (on/off bias points), therefore increasing the flash rate.

Hope it makes sense to someone,
Cheers Dan

Too to follow it real close, but the gist makes sense - I understand why the RC analogy wasn't working (I don't know if that's right, but it's what I understand... )