Page 1 of 1
GQ clutch issue after new slave cylinder and hose.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 8:56 am
by Red_MAv
Had a leak from the clutch slave cylinder so replaced that bled and it was working a treat for 1 day. Found the hose that leads into it had a leak where the flexible hose joined at the fitting that goes into slave cylinder. Did not have hose and it looked awkward to get to so took to a workshop yesterday. Today car took 1 minute of it running before it would let me put it into gear and felt really light. It wont grab until the very very top of the pedal release and last bit of driving to work it felt like I was driving with the clutch half pushed in.
Taking it in on the way home from work. Rang him then and he said it just needs a pedal adjustment.
Does that sound right that it needs a pedal adjustment given that everything was working fine before the hose was replaced yesterday. I checked the fluid level this morning and it was fine.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:19 am
by mkpatrol
Pedal adjust ment wont make the pedal light but it will make the clutch release at the very last bit of travel.
I would say there is air still in it. Get them to have a look at it.
Light clutch could also mean a broken finger on the diaphragm of the pressure plate. Can break anytime & if it has its not the mechanics fault.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 10:26 am
by grant84
Hi, The clutch was only light for the first minute or two when I couldn't get it into any gear, as if the car had to run and build up pressure for the clutch to work.
Once I got it into gear it seemed normal except only bitting in at the top of pedal release.
PS- This is my vehicle and had someone post on my behalf as I couldn't sign in this morning.
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:13 pm
by azzad
sounds like air to me also.
can be a pain to bleed these make sure you bleed up at the firewall first.
Dazza
Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 12:14 pm
by jessie928
you cant adjust the pedal that much
sounds like you have air in the line mate
Jes
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 8:29 am
by grant84
Was at mechanics for 45 minutes last night while trying to bleed it properly (assuming that is it). He tested the master cylinder by clamping the hose and putting pressure on pedal or something and said its fine. Seemed fine when leaving but again half way to work today it starts to grab very high on the pedal release and by the time i get to work its like riding the clutch.
Rang clutch specialist near my work and asked if they can pressure bleed it and he laughed as if it needs that to be done and should be done easily the normal way. So taking it there at lunchtime to be done. He seemed to think it may be the master cylinder or clutch if not the air.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:24 am
by jessie928
you could have a dud slave?
maybe your new line is damaged?
is it leaking fluid at all? is the level going down?
does your truck have a booster on the clutch?
Jes
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 9:36 am
by grant84
From what I can tell the fluid is not leaking and the level is staying full.
Yer there is a clutch booster. I am not to sure how it works but I assume it gives pressure and allows the clutch to be pressed in easier once car is running similar to brake booster?
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:15 pm
by ANDREWGQ 351
this is the same problem as the braks padal falling after a while that someone else on here had last week
The push rod in the end of the booster is adjustable, if it is to long then the not all the fluid will be allowed back into the master.
This pumps up the clutch to the point where it will slip, it will feel ok after the system is bled as the line pressure is then released but it will come back as the system heats up and it used more times.
If left to cool overnight some of the line pressure releases and it seems ok.
There needs to be 1-2mm clearance between the booster pushrod and the back of the master cylinder
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:42 pm
by grant84
Just took it to a brake and clutch specialist near my work. He said it could be that but thought it would be strange if it hadn't been adjusted originally.
I have booked it in to workshop tomorrow to leave with them to figure out what it is.
Is this push rod in the booster easy to adjust as I might give that a go tonight.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 12:45 pm
by ANDREWGQ 351
easy, hold the rod with plyers and turn the extension bolt with i think 8mm
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 1:14 pm
by grant84
Just reading through manual now and seems pretty easy to do once the master cylinder is off. I think I will give it a go tonight and see if I can fix it. Seems strange would need adjusting without anyone touching it in the first place but will see how we go.
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:47 pm
by albundy
There is a small seal around that output rod in the master cylinder. I found this to be the source of a very similar problem after I replaced the slave cylinder. Replace this and you will find your problem solved. As for adjustmnt of pedals, between adjusting the inputrod near the peadal and outputrod under the bonnet in the master cylinder there is heaps of adjustment available. I have mine bting in riht down near the floor.
Al
Posted: Thu Jul 03, 2008 6:52 pm
by ozy1
just remember whn bleeding the clutch line that some models, i know diesels have it, but there is a link that runs up the passenger side of the engine bay with a bleed nipple on it, this also needs to be bled, if not can cause similar issues as well,
Posted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:43 am
by grant84
Ok took it to specialist today and let them have a look at it. Just got phone call and the booster is pushing the rod 10mm further than it should and is being sent off to have the booster rebuilt.
Andrew GQ you were spot on just not able to be fixed myself. Thanks everyone for the help.