Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok guys.. real sorry about this one.. does this diff already have the axel seal in it or not? i cannot remember if i took it out already or not... once again very sorry.,...

That plastic thing is just a shield to keep the majority of oil off the seal. The axle seal itself is incorporated into the (sealed)bearing.
Jas.

sweet cheers.. had a feeling i removed it already/

want33s, there is also a axle seal to replace in there.

cant really see on that one but i do not think it is installed in there at the moment.

I have a seal at home waiting to install into my rear diff at the moment.

damn leaks

nicbeer wrote:want33s, there is also a axle seal to replace in there.

cant really see on that one but i do not think it is installed in there at the moment.

I have a seal at home waiting to install into my rear diff at the moment.

damn leaks

im about to change my bearings on the back because of leaking oil wat is the other seal i thought only the bearing sealed it??

i have the seals at home but u get them when u buy a axle seal kit also.

the bearing has its own seal to protect from the oil i beleive.

may want to dl the workshop manual if u dont have and go from there.

www.suzukiinfo.com

Yep... my mistake there is a seal... Part #09283-48007
I should know that I've replaced 4 of them!

so could the seal just be replaced not the bearing

try just replacing the oil seal first. cheaper and easier than doin the bearings.

yeh where is the oil seal does it press on or is it in the diff when the axle slides out i was going to get new bearings pressed on this week they quoted me 280 with 2 new bearings and that was if i took the axels out myself

if the oil has gone thru ur bearings they will be rooted, change them both while its apart, also the seal sits up against the plastic ring you have there.

my experiances.. in a nut shell on Rear Wheel bearings...

looking inside the diff drivers side.



Removal of bearings:
or bearing removal in pictures
#1. secure axle in vice using a soft timber as to not damage axle spline.

move brake away as far as possible to allow for grinder to fit in...I used some cable ties to 'position the housing'

cutting aprox half way through the outer bearing race allowed me to cold chisel the remainded and 'snap' the race, gaining axsess to the inner race and collar.


again cutting half way through the collar and some gentle persuasion i was able to slide the collar off without any dramas.

The bearing inner race followed suit and came off the same way..

***NT owners note that there is a small spacer washer between the bearing and the brake housing. i actually damaged mine on remval and am hoping suzispares will have a replacement..

The final result is two bare axles, and degreased brake housings. Off to the pipe store.. (Not THAT pipe ya TRIPPAS!)


the difference in the NT & WT bearings is the WT have the spacer built into the bearing race itself.

*** NOT OME***

*The bearings shown above WERE NOT FITTED, and ORIGINAL Suzi ones
were used, I unfortunatly didnt get the suzi part number for the NT
bearing either.. but i gather is the same as above..but NT spacers were
refitted and all looks good...from what i can tell anyway
*Bearing and Collar were installed using a brass collar and length of
piping. The spacer(NT) first, followed by the bearing and finally the collar.
This was performed by other parties and photos unavailable. sorry.

*I also replaced BOTH sides, Bearings, Seals and 'oil throwout' i marked
the drum housings D/P, and also cleaned the diff and the brake housing
contact area itself. there was no gaskets or seals in this area upon
removal. Pictures are a mix of the two, but principle remains the same.

**When removing and Fastening the brake hub to the axle make sure to
have the car on(compressed jackstands) or as close to the
ground as possible and secured safely.


here goes..

I removed the old seal from the passenger side and replaced the seal and the 'oil throw' with genuine new items.

this shows the new seal and oil throw.



once the axle has been carefully installed it may be necessary to CAREFULLY tap the axle and set the bearing into its home... I used a piece of pine as it was handy and soft..


looking from behind with housing to outside of wheel.



I also now tightened the 4 12mm nuts and spring washers on the housing securing it to the diff and checked alignment..

looks pretty ok.. reckon it may need a squirt of sealer of some sort though...

I also tightened and cleaned the bleed valve and brake line.


a quick degrease and on went the outer drum.
Dont forget the outer ring if it has been removed!
nows a good time to remove any dents or flat spots in the housing and guard..
[

now its just a matter of bleeding the brakes and putting the wheel back on.

***Dont ForGet to ReFill the DifF!!!***

Hope its helped...

and because its sitting in front of me the part number for the oil throw is 43588-73000 (one unit per package)

um all up mine cost 170 ish. ordered the bearings and seals online for about 120 and took the axles down to a shop. they pressed the old off and installed the new for 50

the plastic thing in the first pic you can see , is not a shield to keep oil off the seal , neither is it a "oil throw" .

It is called a "seal protector" and its only purpose is to prevent damage to the oil seal on axle removal and installation.

well there ya go..

either way, part number stays the same even if the name differs, certainly worthy of replacement which ever way you look at it...

Could just be the photo but it looks to me like the seal is still in the end of the axle in that first pic......

how do i get the axle out? replacing my rear bearings at the moment and trying to remove the rear axles but there not coming!

chuckwilltalk wrote:how do i get the axle out? replacing my rear bearings at the moment and trying to remove the rear axles but there not coming!

get the brake drum put it on backwards put the nuts on so they are just on and pull like a side hammer

Use the brake drum as a slide hammer by bolting it loosely on and pulling it towards you.

Just for interests sake... the bearing retainer is easily removed by using a cold chisel to expand it.

also for interest sake - before anyone payes $120 for two rear wheel bearing kits again send me a PM.

i can make these kits up for around $20-$25 mark and airbag it anywhere in australia for $13.

Kit would include

1 x 6207.2RSR
1 x retaining collar
1 x M 045x062x08 oil seal. (not 100% on that size as i'm not at work and i would check before sending obviously)
***** no chinese bearings or seals*****

above is only NT. As i'm lead to beleive WT have a built on extended ring on the bearing instead of the collar

also PM me if you want any other bearing kits or seal kits and i can price them up for you.

weaves

I have always been advised to lubricate the seal before installing the axle, reduces the chances of tearing it when the bearing reatainer slides past.

nice write up fool.. bible ftw!

very timely also

how do you get the oil seal out? i am trying to replace it now, along with my bearings.

my seal is being a slart also.. will try get some needle nose pliers in there.. its a stubborn sob.. if anyone has a simple way let us know.
ill be putting the bearing retainers on from rocky road at the same time.. ill take some pics for yas.

very easy to get a seal out, use a screwdriver and just lever it out.

I used a claw hammer the manual told me to

tried the screw dirver method first, found it just warped the seal but came out eventually. the claw hammer is definitely the way to go came out very quickly.

bazooked wrote:very easy to get a seal out, use a screwdriver and just lever it out.

X2

awesome info , muchly appreciated.

i have just been trying for the past 2 hours to firstly figure out a way to press the bearings off with no success and then i made an extractor up from scratch and it wouldnt budge them. i was worried about delving into the unknown and cutting the bearing but this has given me every detail i needed.

thanks again !