Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey guys,
I've just lifted my GV and basically even though I've used camber bolts, I still can't dial up 0deg camber.
The best i can get is +1.9deg
Basically I need help. How can I fix this?
Can I get lower arm offset bushes? has anyone ever done this?
How else can I do this?

HELP NEEDED

Take the spring spacer out of the front. You've got too much lift.

cj wrote:Take the spring spacer out of the front. You've got too much lift.

How else can I fix it?

Put the stock springs back in. You've got too much lift.

or

Put a smaller spacer in. You've got too much lift.

you are right Cj, and there isn't any other easy option, but calmini A-arms would fix this a bit too. Problem is, you'd have to buy the whole kit.

Steve.

Bendev - see my post over in your buildup thread... contact Dave at Bits4Vits...

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Bits4Vits

Too much lift, been there tried it. Went to Calmini to get it to work.

Thje other option is to relocate your front "A" arms by making a bracket that sits below your cross member. Too much work

take the coil spacers out and put in a body lift if you want the height. 1" fits no problems, just a couple of extra spacers for the front and rear bars

of fit a 2" body lift and custom make some bars for it.

But thats just what I think

The biggest tires you can get in to the rear arches without having to replace in the rear bar or cut it up is 255/70R16, about a bit under 31"(I know cause like I said I have tried this) and you dont need more than 2" coils and a 1" body lift to fit them.

According to your other post you've got nearly 4" of lift from suspension alone. That's way too much. I haven't heard of anyone else running that much lift from an IFS. 3" is the max I've heard of without only using Camber adjustment bolts.

i think you also can slot the holes to try and correct the camber, when i lifted my vitara i took it to a race shop for the alignment and they drilled new holes to get it to work

but as i love pics here is a gv with 4inches

Yes, slotting the holes can work BUT there is the potential for the bolts too move in the holes and have the camber go out but I guess at least he can sell the camber bolts to help get money to pay for solving the issue of being too short for the amount of lift he now has as well as some bumpstop spacers and some bigger tyres to fill all that empty space but then again I think this is just for the mall.

try 2 camber bolts per side? if so only use the ones sold by pedders, not cheap but are manufactured the best.

It might be just me, but I'm pretty sure that the GV in fordy1's picture also has heaps of positive camber.

Steve.

lower it. ( or get really good at changing failed front struts)

joeblow wrote:try 2 camber bolts per side? if so only use the ones sold by pedders, not cheap but are manufactured the best.

Although I have Pedders I'd use K-Mac next time as they drill the hole to take a larger camber bolt so that strength in the bolt isn't reduced like the Pedders and they give more adjustment too and I certainly wouldn't use two camber bolts on a road car

I've got k-macs fitted and i get heaps of adjustment just from having them in the top hole only, ive lifted 40mm with OME. But my wheel alignment guy hates them because you cant adjust camber with the car on the ground with weight over the wheel, the plate on the k-mac assembly twists rather than the camber being changed. I'm looking at having the plate welded to my OME strut and i adjust my camber with a spirit level in the driveway till then. Also I've noticed that the k-mac is a little fiddely when the required setting is around its neutral position.

K-mac mention running bolts top and bottom for extra ajustment but i would want them welded to the strut before trusting them.

Whats with the 1.25 degree difference between L and R side. was the pick taken before the left camber bolt was adjusted?

Got a pic from the front with the GV on the ground?

Don't disagree with what you said but the pluses of more adjustment and a stronger bolt are a good thing. Two camber bolts per side is fine for the racetrack etc. but I wouldn't do it on a road car especially with the reduced strength of the smaller Pedders bolts.

cj wrote:Don't disagree with what you said but the pluses of more adjustment and a stronger bolt are a good thing. Two camber bolts per side is fine for the racetrack etc. but I wouldn't do it on a road car especially with the reduced strength of the smaller Pedders bolts.

Sorry I wan't clear. I'd only recommend running top and bottom with k-macs not pedders.

joeblow wrote:try 2 camber bolts per side? if so only use the ones sold by pedders, not cheap but are manufactured the best.

I tried two per side and you still cant get the adjustment.

Just lower it.

I have 65mm lift in mine and use Pedders bolts with no ill effects.

I did think that the "slotting" of the hole idea was good, but further to that, I would suggest welding a couple of flat washers (or similar) to the outside of the strut on either side where you want the bolt to now pass through in its new position.

This would have the effect of having relocated the camber bolt to where you need it as a result of the amount of lift you have, whilst not leaving it succeptable to movement in a "slot" if it became loose for any reason.

What do you guys think?

slotting the holes (in my opinion) is a bit hokey. take a hit with camber bolts in a std setup and you can only get a small movement, maybe 2 to 3 degrees max. With a slotted hole it could easily be enough to make the car undriveable.

What about doing the adjustment at the top? Unbolt and rotate the top plate and redrill the holes (obviously you'd do some pretty close measuring and calculations) If it didn't work you could revert to the original holes easily. (you could even drill the plate, so it couldn't be seen from above)
Or, going a step further, adapt an adjustable strut top from another vehicle to suit.

If it was mine I'd lower it.

Liam wrote:slotting the holes (in my opinion) is a bit hokey. take a hit with camber bolts in a std setup and you can only get a small movement, maybe 2 to 3 degrees max. With a slotted hole it could easily be enough to make the car undriveable.

Valid point, and that was the basis behind my thought of welding the washer or something a little more sturdy to the outside of the strut face, so it isn't really a slot anymore, but a relocated hole of the original diameter.

Like the word "hokey" btw... might use that myself sometime...

Holy positive camber batman, thats serious!!

Remove the spacers & chuck in a bodylift, this should fix all your problems.

Yep... we ended up dropping the X-90 down and inch or two... it wobbled around like a drunk tranny in six-inch heels...

im sure the gv has airbags...

Leave the coils in hear is a mod that i have done

http://www.zukiworld.com/month_120102/f ... endmod.htm

But your cv angles are your next problem the front diff is still to high for that much drop you will need to lower the diff to 50 mm lower than standard

i have ran this setup many years with 33's

The suspension looks like its settled in but i know its still a little positive.
Fitted the tyres on thursday, thought i'de just show you all.

nice work now you will have to park near a stock gv for a comparison

i hope it goes better then that white heap in front of you (tell john i said hi )

Did you end up fixing the camber problem?

TheOtherLeft wrote:Did you end up fixing the camber problem?

having a crack at it friday, as that is my next day off.
put a lot of thought into it, and even went to the wreckers and got a hole front end set up ie. bottom control arm and disc brake holder thingy.
hopefully my idea works. but we'll see.