Outer Limits 4x4 Board

gents, the plugs on the chev stroker are super close to the exhaust.... I'm thinking of heat wrapping it, anyone done this or can give advice as why i shouldn't?

one boot on the plugs is already heat damaged hence the reason i'm thinking this...

I have a fibreglass bandage that wraps around the pipe in areas like around the slave cylinder
I dont have any near the plugs and dont have any problem around there

http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/autom ... oducts.php

only thing is it holds in water and crap assisting with rust.

bogged wrote:http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/autom ... oducts.php

only thing is it holds in water and crap assisting with rust.

yeah, that's the only issue i can find with it.....

Cheers.

Have you heard about hpc coating? it`s a ceramic coating that takes most of the heat out of the the exhaust I have it on a street car and a couple of my mates are using it in there fourbys.works a treat.

Wilba wrote:Have you heard about hpc coating? it`s a ceramic coating that takes most of the heat out of the the exhaust I have it on a street car and a couple of my mates are using it in there fourbys.works a treat.

Googling it now....... looks interesting.

Why are u using that over traditional methods?

Just works better and it seems far better for longativity and you don`t have that prob of crap getting in it on a fourby.There are different types for different heat too. Let me know if you have trouble finding a sight on it and I`ll see where my mate got his done.

Wilba wrote:Just works better and it seems far better for longativity and you don`t have that prob of crap getting in it on a fourby.There are different types for different heat too. Let me know if you have trouble finding a sight on it and I`ll see where my mate got his done.

yeah, that sounds great.
I'm sorting the exhaust next week so i'll be looking at getting it done then. it's a 383 stroker with speedpro pistons and cam, should be producing about 390-400hp at the wheels when it's sorted... so i guess there'll be a fair bit of heat down there.

bogged wrote:http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/autom ... oducts.php

only thing is it holds in water and crap assisting with rust.

i've seen you say this alot. but the last time i got water on the headers of and engine that had just been driving for 20mins, it instantly turns to steam.

the heat from the pipes would evaporate any water pretty fast.


still, having the pipes coated by HPC or JetHot would be a better idea

but if the heat wrap doesnt let that steam escape, when it all cools down again you have... WATER! and then the rust sets in, when it cools back down again

brad-chevlux wrote:i've seen you say this alot. but the last time i got water on the headers of and engine that had just been driving for 20mins, it instantly turns to steam.

the heat from the pipes would evaporate any water pretty fast.

Have seem them rust out on many bike racin applications, and Harley pipes get a wee bit hotter than GQ ones.

macca81 wrote:but if the heat wrap doesnt let that steam escape, when it all cools down again you have... WATER! and then the rust sets in, when it cools back down again

If it can't let steam out, how can it let water in?

RockyF75 wrote:

macca81 wrote:but if the heat wrap doesnt let that steam escape, when it all cools down again you have... WATER! and then the rust sets in, when it cools back down again

If it can't let steam out, how can it let water in?

soaks in. it takes more than just heat to dry things out. get a wet towel, and i mean properly wet, and sit it on the bonnet of ya truck while its running but not moving. it can run all day and you will end up with a hot wet towel at the end of it. hang the same towel out the window and got for a drive for an hour and you will find that its a whole lot drier. there is a lot more than just heat involved in drying out absorbant materials...

A friend of mine owns a exhaust and intercooler shop and advised me not to wrap the headers on my ute (304 injected 5lt) as it would rust them out in no time at all. And i have seen this same stuff rust out motorcycle exhausts real fast as i am a Motorcycle mechanic and have replaced systems due to this reason on bikes and quads that see alot of offroad use (mud & water).

HPC coating is looking good....... i really see the rust thing as an issue... it is a fourby

How much to do the headers anyone?

HPC coating is awsome, it greatly reduced under bonnet temps in my commodore. But you may wanna look at getting some heat shielding plug lead covers. I think rocket industries should sell them, or VPW

Tis usually about 300 to 500 for a set of V8 headers depending on the company doing it. Pacemaker and a few other companies sell them pre coated now so you may wanna check if they make a set for your motor.

macca81 wrote:

RockyF75 wrote:

macca81 wrote:but if the heat wrap doesnt let that steam escape, when it all cools down again you have... WATER! and then the rust sets in, when it cools back down again

If it can't let steam out, how can it let water in?

soaks in. it takes more than just heat to dry things out. get a wet towel, and i mean properly wet, and sit it on the bonnet of ya truck while its running but not moving. it can run all day and you will end up with a hot wet towel at the end of it. hang the same towel out the window and got for a drive for an hour and you will find that its a whole lot drier. there is a lot more than just heat involved in drying out absorbant materials...

At te 700+ degrees that exhausts run at, you couldn't trap water/steam there if you had to.

KiwiBacon wrote:

macca81 wrote:

RockyF75 wrote:

macca81 wrote:but if the heat wrap doesnt let that steam escape, when it all cools down again you have... WATER! and then the rust sets in, when it cools back down again

If it can't let steam out, how can it let water in?

soaks in. it takes more than just heat to dry things out. get a wet towel, and i mean properly wet, and sit it on the bonnet of ya truck while its running but not moving. it can run all day and you will end up with a hot wet towel at the end of it. hang the same towel out the window and got for a drive for an hour and you will find that its a whole lot drier. there is a lot more than just heat involved in drying out absorbant materials...

At te 700+ degrees that exhausts run at, you couldn't trap water/steam there if you had to.

The rust issue has nothing to do with water getting onto the headers and soaking in. Condensation is the killer and you can't avoind the natural process of condensation when a hot exhaust cools down. With the headers wrapped the condensation is unable to evaporate as it would normally when unwrapped. You should find a couple of posts with links to info on this by doing a search. I'll see if I can find it.

Hedit: here's the link. http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/ft ... =wrap+heat

Bogged gave you a good link re heat resistent plugs boots etc and honestly go that way as HPC coating will do squat and be a waste of dollars if your leads are that close.

I have a V8 4by with extractors and had them ceramic coated inside and out but mainly for overall rust protection etc.

When I had them done I got the usual speel and that I would be able to grab them etc etc. All crap unless maybe if you're a non pain feeling Indian guru you might be lucky but I feel major burns

Using an infra red dot temp sensor showed the heat difference at the plugs is minimal, if at all.

AUXR8's use a heat plug shield so there's some you can look at otherwise check out those in Bogged's link as this will work.

ozrunner wrote:Bogged gave you a good link re heat resistent plugs boots etc and honestly go that way as HPC coating will do squat and be a waste of dollars if your leads are that close.

I have a V8 4by with extractors and had them ceramic coated inside and out but mainly for overall rust protection etc.

When I had them done I got the usual speel and that I would be able to grab them etc etc. All crap unless maybe if you're a non pain feeling Indian guru you might be lucky but I feel major burns

Using an infra red dot temp sensor showed the heat difference at the plugs is minimal, if at all.

AUXR8's use a heat plug shield so there's some you can look at otherwise check out those in Bogged's link as this will work.

I was looking at those, they do swm to be a good jigger... YOu're the first to say that the coating isn't worth it... I wouldn't expect to be able to grab the pipes but i thought it would have to help somewhat.

cheers

petri wrote: I was looking at those, they do swm to be a good jigger... YOu're the first to say that the coating isn't worth it... I wouldn't expect to be able to grab the pipes but i thought it would have to help somewhat.

cheers

I'd expect it to reduce the radiated heat, but I wouldn't expect it to reduce the surface temperatures at all. They may increase slightly due to less heat radiated away.

There is a lot of BS and scaremongering regarding exhaust lagging. But I'd still do it.

KiwiBacon wrote:

petri wrote:.....There is a lot of BS and scaremongering regarding exhaust lagging. But I'd still do it.

Correct again

I had my lower pipes wrapped in the 50mm exhaust wrap for years and it was never a problem and after being covered in mud, beach sand and salt for years etc, when I finally removed it to swap to full extractors the unpainted mild steel pipes were still perfect

It does reduce radiant heat and a lot more than these coatings but the "plug socks or boots" are what you need. I did it so I didn't accidently burn myself when crawling underneath, which I had done a few times .

This pic is not for this reason but you can see a couple of the standard Ford "heat plug sleeves" on this engine. This goes over an alloy type connector.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/graphics/XR83.jpg

ozrunner wrote: HPC coating will do squat and be a waste of dollars

HPC is worth is weight in gold IMHO.

GRPABT1 wrote: HPC is worth is weight in gold IMHO.

It seems to cost the same as gold.

bogged wrote:

brad-chevlux wrote:i've seen you say this alot. but the last time i got water on the headers of and engine that had just been driving for 20mins, it instantly turns to steam.

the heat from the pipes would evaporate any water pretty fast.

Have seem them rust out on many bike racin applications, and Harley pipes get a wee bit hotter than GQ ones.

X2

I had the fibreglass type stuff on the cruiser from the turbo back for about a meter along the pipe.
It rusted my pipe right through to the point that I broke it in half with just my hand. The wrap kept the shape and muffled the noise, I knew I had a hole, didn't reralise how bad.