Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Fitted a 16V eng in an 8V body.

Replaced the loom with 16V loom. All plugs connected.

Fueled and new battery connected.

Starter wount turn over, no clicks nothing.

Took starter out and had it checked , all good so back in and still no go.

power to the dash etc as dash lights up.

Could there be a switch somewhere I havent found that needs to be closed (like on the clutch)?

I am at a loss here as it should turn over at least. I could live with it not running or running like a dog but not even turning over is real disheartening.

HELP!

was 8v injected?

was it a "plug and play" as far as plugs and that inc the computer swap or was it a carb so full conversion.

sounds like you may not have the ignition switch hooked up correctly.

is the ingntion wire on the starter motor?

Ground wire too.

Was an 8v inj engine but that was removed (along with loom/ecu) and a newer 16v engine with its loom/ecu installed. Tested power to starter and there is no power to the small pos lead to the starter. There is power to the starter through the larger pos wire and the earth is sweet. Dash lights are all on as I would expect.
I made up a jumper to get the starter to kick over but after 30 secs of cranking nothing, no smell of fuel so I guess the fuel pump isn't going either.

Looks like the loom I bought may be have a fault somewhere.

sounds like you need to invest in a auto elec

if no fuel pump either, check the relay has power and ground and if so then it could be the ecu issue. as without crank signal the fuel wont start either.

def issues there.

Cheers guys,

Looks like another weekend scratching my arse and playing with my multi meter.

IT LIVES.

Two wires was all it was.

The ignition circuit had been snipped (may have been broken cant be 100%) and the wire to the fuel pump was crushed and earthed out (and had a dodgy connection anyway).

Fixed and running.

Heath

thats good to hear

Spoke too soon. Drove it out of the garage and stopped it cause I smelt smoke (and saw it too). Was from the painted extractors and now it wont start. Might be a coil problem as I couldnt get a spark but had power and earth to coil.

Going to buy a timing light tomorrow and sort it.

Still smiling though cause the missus reconed it would be Xmas before it was running. Boy did I show her ... kind of.

Heath

Right armed with the timing light I set it up and turned the key... and it ran...for about 5 secs and then stopped. The timing light was flashing as it should and then stopped (and so did the engine). Fuel is good (relay clicking in and out and pump can be heard pressurising the system), was thinking water contamination but that wont explain the lack of spark.

I tested for power at the coil and have the 12v there. Tested earth and that is good. Tested power when cranking with all connected and have 12v at both wires into the coil (when cranking). This puzzled me but I assume that the power flows through the coil and I was just picking it up on the trip back to the batt.

Tested primary and secondary resistance in coil and it was between the haynes recomendations (right in the middle on primary and about 1/4 in the secondary).

Tested coil to dizzy wire and it came out at 0.7ish ohms (others I have here are around 1.2/4 ohms) so it seems right. Tried a differnt one just incase and no change.

Got me buggered, will run when it hasnt been touched for a while but when it has stopped it wont start. I assume that means the fuses are all good and links are all good also.

Will have to find a spare coil to eliminate that, but next step is the dizzy I guess.

My biggest question is why will it run and then stop? If the dizzy is faulty then it shouldnt run at all.

does it have a safety fuel cut?

had this problem on a after market elec pump before. the wire was a bad conection so it only ran the pump for 5 sec then cut the fuel because it thought the engine wasn't cranking over. left it for 5 min come back and the pump would work for 5 sec and cut out again and so would the engine.

check if your pump is cutting out after 5 sec or if its running when you turn the key on

Engine ran for approx 4 minutes on Saturday so not sure if that fits. was being driven (rev'ed) then and this last time I let it idle, dont know if that would make a difference.

not the fuel cut then, they only got for 5 to 10 sec.

so when the car stops , have you pulled a lead and checked for spark ? generally a cam angle sensor issue will be more evident when hot .

if you hook up a fuel pressure gauge , and pull a lead and put a plug in it (even run the car on 3 cylinders) you can get a better indication of where the problem lies , if the car runs then stops and still retains fuel pressure , then try and crank it to see if you still have spark.

do you have a diagnostic terminal/ check engine light still functioning?

I guess the light will still function as I havent touched any of that stuff yet.

when u flick the key to on does the pump run for a sec or 2?

and starting is normal when it does start?

also one other thing does it cut out when reving or only idle? as in if u hold it at 2500 will it cut from that revs or only when sitting idling.

when sqwitched on the relay clicks and the fuel pump runs for a couple of secs. Havent been able to get it started long enough to see if it will die only at idle or at speed also.