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how to remove - tie rod studs
Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 4:52 pm
by little rusty
I have done a search and cannot understand the gregorys book...
how the hell do i remove the studs on the tie rod ends from the steering arms on an old FJ40? Same goes for the standard set-up on the steering damper???
got me stuffed!!!
cheers
Posted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 11:07 pm
by Sic Lux
A tool like this if there really stuck normaly you can hit the arm not the threaded bit and there a taper fit so that will pop it out like i said most of the tim i have one of each style of these mainly for room constraints on diffrent cars the best one is the one showen in the larger pic
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 921x00003a
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:07 am
by little rusty
cheers mate - used one of the single arm style that hook under the thing the stud is attached to and has a bolt to bush it out - snapped and was such poor quality metal i couldn't even weld it... will look for a better one like the one in th pic.
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:23 am
by rgzook
either that or what you can try is apply a small amount of weight on the old thread then belt the side of the arm and it should pop out.....
worked for me
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:32 am
by shorty_f0rty
ive got one like this..
does the job well.
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 11:19 am
by jessie928
rgzook wrote:either that or what you can try is apply a small amount of weight on the old thread then belt the side of the arm and it should pop out.....
worked for me
what you have to remember when doing this, is while you are belting the arm, someone has to hold a heavy object against the other side of the arm so the impact is not wasted
Jes
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 1:36 pm
by rgzook
jessie928 wrote:rgzook wrote:either that or what you can try is apply a small amount of weight on the old thread then belt the side of the arm and it should pop out.....
worked for me
what you have to remember when doing this, is while you are belting the arm, someone has to hold a heavy object against the other side of the arm so the impact is not wasted
Jes
good point creates a dead hit none of the swinging force is lost in the flex of the arm.
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 2:14 pm
by Harrow
the way i remove them and they come out easy as. Get a porta gas and heat the bracket up stightly but not to much. this will make the metal expand at this stage give the bracket a tap with a hammer (i use a copper head hammer) and after a few sollid taps it should pop out if not re heat and try again. Warning: Do NOT hit the thread on the tie rod if you are planing to reuse them as the thred needs to be perfect other wise you will have a nightmare of a job doing it back up.
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 6:57 pm
by little rusty
thanks mate - will give all a try soon
Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:49 pm
by Mr DJ
On stubborn ones in the past, have used a 3 jaw puller, tension it up a bit, smack joint with hammer, tighten some more, smack, etc.
Make sure you leave the nut on the end, cause when she lets go ......... you don't want to get hit by it !!
Has always worked for me.
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 12:31 am
by oldmate
you can fuck around for 30 minutes with pullers and a hammer, but nothing works better than heat. doesn't have to be an oxy, just one of those hand-held can things of butaine from the hardware work great. heat it up for 90 seconds or so than hit the end of the stud with a hammer (leave the nut on if you don't want to damage the thread)
Posted: Fri Jul 18, 2008 1:47 am
by duck
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 2:47 pm
by little rusty
got my hands on an oxy and heated the bastards off! thanks for your help guys - now I understand why i need to buy anti-seize for the garage...
cheers