Outer Limits 4x4 Board

gday fellas

Took the gq ute out for its first drive on the beach on the weekend and wasnt to happy with the traction, im use to the wagons and it seemed to bounce around a lot more and sink im guessin coz of the wieght factor. Is there anyway around this besides loadin up some toolboxes full of tools on the back, was looking at welding up the front diff and tightening up the lsd in the back (my lsd is @#$! and got no money to spend on lockers) SURELY thatd help........... or not???????

what tires, what size tires, what width rims, and what tire pressures?

u seemed to go up every hill i went up...

got maxxis bighorns on 10" wide rims and had let em down to 18psi.
i used to let my old wrangler mtrs down to same pressure on my wagon and went a lot better.

dont weld the diff.. if anything get a lockright lokka also have you got a steel tray or ally tray i had a mate weigh his gq ute against a wagon and the ute was hevier so there is the sinking factor. is it leaf sprung or coils suspension is probably too stiff for having no weight in the back..

macneil wrote:dont weld the diff.. if anything get a lockright lokka also have you got a steel tray or ally tray i had a mate weigh his gq ute against a wagon and the ute was hevier so there is the sinking factor. is it leaf sprung or coils suspension is probably too stiff for having no weight in the back..

any reason to not welding up the front diff, got an alloy tray and is coil sprung, but gonna make up a steel tray coz the alloy one is way to weak.

unless ur going to lock and unlock your hubs all the time 4wding u wont be able to turn.. the bouncing is most probably cause by hard rear springs.. to cary loads.. your better off spending 500 bux on a lokka tho.. or else leave it open.. welding should only be nessasary if they dont actually make lockers for the diff..

what???? Lokka, weld the rear??? what for... Is lockers teh answer for everything these days

It's the weight factor, adjust the tyre pressures, each car, and each tyre, is different, no set rule. Play with em until it feels comfortable. And remember, reduce your tyre pressure, reduce your speed - especially on the sand...

From the limmited beach work i have done in robe lockers didnt seem to make any difference. My mate in his twin locked TD 80 series got stuck more than me in the gq (i just got the rear lsd). More right foot seemed to get me out of most situations.

i use to run 35 cooperstt on the beach on 8" rim,

i use to let them down to around 10psi ,
nd my wagon use o float accross the sand nicely

Mousie wrote:i use to run 35 cooperstt on the beach on 8" rim,

i use to let them down to around 10psi ,
nd my wagon use o float accross the sand nicely

yea must admit my MTR's work awesome at Robe, down to 18psi and 15psi in the photo

18psi sounds a bit high for aggressive tyres on sand IMHO. I run 13psi on the sand in my BFG muds 285/75/16, sometimes 10-11psi if it starts bogging down.

whythef@#!not wrote:

macneil wrote:dont weld the diff..

any reason to not welding up the front diff, got an alloy tray and is coil sprung, but gonna make up a steel tray coz the alloy one is way to weak.

put some soft coils and procomp shocks that will stop the bounce. if your old ones are shot thats probly the traction problem ... if you weld the diff what you gain in traction you loose x10 everywhere else ..

if you do weld it let us no where your driving it would be fun to watch ...

or just learn how to drive..

try lower tyre pressure i run between 10-13psi makes a huge diffrence from 18psi