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Crossmember getting in the way

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:12 pm
by psychorepeat
just wondering what people do to avoid there tail shafts hitting on the crossmembers with a 6-7 inch lift on GQ wagon.

i know about spinning the shaft around, but on full flex wouldnt it still hit the cross member?

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 7:21 pm
by NutterGQ
you can notch or fab a new member, or not run soo much damm lift

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:18 pm
by Rampage
hey mate ive got 7" coils and it even hits on full flex with people that have 5" lift!

i have pictures and what i did in this link here to over come the issue! its a matter of marking and grinding away crossmember and putting in a half cut pipe to fill the hole! easy as job!

http://www.tassie4wd.com/forum/viewtopi ... c&start=45

page 4 half way down! there is many other people that have done the same, or you can mark where it hits! then remove the crossmember then heat up the spot with a blow tourch were you marked, then get a round bit of pipe and lay on the hot spot and hit the pipe with a big hammer- this will make it push in the crossmember where it hits and fix your problem!

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 8:28 pm
by psychorepeat
yeah thats what i was thinking of doing but wouldnt it reduce the overall strength of the vehicle.

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:23 pm
by jet-6
My front x member is knotched, but what about where the rear crosses the fixed pipe?

Posted: Mon Jul 14, 2008 9:46 pm
by stool
Rotate the rear drive shaft as well

Still not a fix but it helps

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 12:38 pm
by slinky mav
i've got a 6" sprung lwb patrol.
I've scolloped out the 'hump' for the gearbox mount and re-inforced it with a piece of half pipe.


Even with the dual tansfers in and the shaft being longer, not hitting.
Image

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 1:39 pm
by hiy6o
The rear crossmember has a bend in it towards the rear of the car , all we do is cut it out and rotate it so it now bends downward refit it and put tube inside where it goes through the rail , to strengthen where you cut it and weld it back in. Then the front you cut it and fit half pipe as previously suggested .

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 6:26 pm
by psychorepeat
arite thanks for all your help guys i think i have a pretty good understanding of what i need to do

Posted: Tue Jul 15, 2008 8:23 pm
by macca81
hey rampage, did you ever end up selling that bus? had i had the cash at the time i woulda taken it off ya hands, but alas not...

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 8:40 am
by Mudzuki
Is it possible to run a driveshaft spacer at the rear to assist the clearence?

Anyone know who sells them to suit gq/gu?

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 2:03 pm
by psychorepeat
i was thinking of putting a spacer between the gearbox and tail shaft. anyone recon this would work?

Snake racing do 13mm tailshaft spacers

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:00 pm
by Rampage
macca81 wrote:hey rampage, did you ever end up selling that bus? had i had the cash at the time i woulda taken it off ya hands, but alas not...
na mate ended up keeping it and now doing bigger and better things to it!! where abouts down here are you?

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 5:01 pm
by Rampage
psychorepeat wrote:i was thinking of putting a spacer between the gearbox and tail shaft. anyone recon this would work?

Snake racing do 13mm tailshaft spacers
would work to a point but the best and only real fix is to cut away a section and put piping in there to give it its strenght back!

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:46 pm
by nastytroll
you dont need to cut the cross member as far as slinky mav unless you have a double transfer.

First off I cut the front cross member from just past the top of the gearbox mount on an angle toward the outside of the chassis, it still runs flat from front to back. I cut a U in the rear cross member under the shaft, around 20mm deep and 120mm wide, bent a peice of 6mm flat to plate the hole and welded it in. looked like this \_______/.

About 6 years ago I did a 2" engine and gearbox lift with the body lift and now no cutting is required. I fitted stronger engine mounts while I was at it also.

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:51 pm
by psychorepeat
yeah i was thinking if you lifted the motor and gear box with the body lift it could work but thats a fair bit of work plus need to make up new mounts

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 6:52 pm
by nastytroll
its easier then you think, is yours ute or wagon?

Posted: Wed Jul 16, 2008 7:14 pm
by macca81
Rampage wrote:
macca81 wrote:hey rampage, did you ever end up selling that bus? had i had the cash at the time i woulda taken it off ya hands, but alas not...
na mate ended up keeping it and now doing bigger and better things to it!! where abouts down here are you?
in hobart, but i work down midway so i drove past it a few times. dont have the patrol anymore, have a big blue surf now(dont tell the nissan boys :P )

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 3:16 pm
by psychorepeat
ts easier then you think, is yours ute or wagon?
Its a wagon. lwb, 4.2 turbo diesel

Posted: Thu Jul 17, 2008 4:17 pm
by nastytroll
I fitted 2 new fuel lines from chassis to pump, fuel in and return both a little longer. Longer breather hose from x member to chassis rail for gearbox. The back half of the exhaust will need a little modification, just mounts nothing hard. If you already have the body lift thats it.

You can fit different engine mounts or modify the current ones. If it has 2 bolt engine mounts I would replace them with different mounts.

I have done 6 patrols so far. My ute and the Girls wagon are now 6 years old and get driven hard both turbo TD42. I have done another TD42 with extractors in a duel cab patrol. 2 turbo SWB with TD42 and an extra cab TB42 that will see winch challange soon.

All run fine. If you send me details I can supply the gearbox spacers and engine mounts but I will need to know if you have 2 or 4 bolt chassis engine mounts. I will have to work out a cost if your interested.